only one

[1894]

being presentable is for those who see me and therefore meaningful. it certainly can be had from walmart. however, the fit is for me. if the fit uplifts me, that feeling can be shared by those around me. bespoke, in this way is the better choice.

i am interested in building an outfit- for lack of a better word. a complete ONE. entirely bespoke and of the material or fabric reserved especially for endurance. from one pair of shoes to a hat and everything in between- but only one of each.

the strongest most enduring for each: pants, coat, cardigan, top coat, and so on. the colors, patterns and styles to be most widely acceptable for as many environments, social settings as possible.

fabric and color and style. which would you choose?

i can benefit from your experience and understanding here. i very much appreciate your opinion.

[Sator]

We need more information to give you the best advice:

Where are you located?
Do you have any budget constraints?
Are you willing to travel?

For example if you live here in Sydney, Australia I would happily recommend people able to accommodate you, as well a cloth suitable for our climate.

[1894]

hello, Sator.

i am sorry my post was not clear-
what exactly i am looking for from more experienced members here, is some information on this question:

what if you only had one pair of pants. one shirt. one sweater. one coat. one top coat. one par of shoes. one hat.

what fabric would you choose for each that would ensure the highest level of endurance. what style would you have which would promise the widest of social acceptance as possible.

thank you for your quick reply, Sator. however i am just in the very early stages of putting together an appoach. after this approach is finalized i would then feel comfortable discussing tailors, but at this point i would be more of a bother as i don't know enough, yet.

[RWS]

Sator's right, 1894. We'd need a great deal more information before we could give you decent suggestions. Where do you live? What social and business circles do you move in? What are your height, physique, coloring? What cut of clothing do you prefer or feel most comfortable in? The list could go on and on.

[Sator]

It is just that you ask for something wearable in as many environments as possible. That depends very much on the local climate. Here in Sydney (and those members in San Francisco or Naples might do the same) I would recommend a fresco weave for year round wear as a three piece lounge suit - the waistcoat might be omitted on the most unbearably hot days. I would never recommend a fresco up front to someone in London or Moscow, where a charcoal grey 13 Oz worsted from H Lesser would be my primary pick.

Likewise, if forced to choose only one hat in sunny Sydney I might well pick a Panama hat as my only hat. For Helsinki, or St Petersberg, I would pick a fedora.

As for footwear, I would gladly wear a pair of black balmoral boots for year round wear. Admittedly, however I do tend to wear Oxford shoes on the hottest days in summer.

For an overcoat I would choose a lighter topcoat, such as a covert coat for Sydney, but a much heavier Chesterfield for Edinburgh or Stockholm.

As for those of you in climes with very hot summers and equally freezing winters the choice is rather more difficult. The choice will be determined by how each individual is affected by weather - a function at times of how much insulation one carries! I carry little and can be found wearing 15/16 Oz flannel in an Australian winter - to the horror of those in places such as London.

As you can probably tell, I am a strong believer in a three seasons wardrobe as well a having a wardrobe which reasonably covers the three traditional states of dress: full dress, half dress and undress.

[1894]

hello RWS, i'm interested in *your* choices. at this point i am not ready to build a seasonal wardrobe but perhaps i am ready to start considering a single versatile and enduring outfit. one that fits in at the doctor's office as well as it does at a fine restaurant. a walk in late fall as well as a park bench rest in mid july. as you are in new england, your answer is valuable as the seasons are so strangely extreme.

Sator, this is more of what i am looking for, thank you very much.

[Cantabrigian]

I'll chime in for the fun of it. If, for some odd reason, I were to have only one outfit, it would be this:

suit: 14oz mid grey or navy solid worsted
shirt: royal oxford in lite blue or white with a cutaway collar and one-button barrel cuffs
tie: mid blue grenadine
shoes: brown punch cap oxfords, single sole
topcoat: undecided
I'd donate the chance to select a hat to Alan C

Can't quite wear that everywhere but it's what I'd choose.

[Costi]

a single versatile and enduring outfit. one that fits in at the doctor's office as well as it does at a fine restaurant. a walk in late fall as well as a park bench rest in mid july.

Thank God there is no such thing! You seem to be looking for the sartorial Philosopher's Stone. I think I understand the reasoning behind your idea of the "one fits all situations outfit", but what you ask really goes contrary to the basic precepts of bespoke clothing, according to which appropriate dress is in relation to person, place, time, situation etc. The right question is what is appropriate for YOU.

i am just in the very early stages of putting together an appoach

Then let yourself guided and you'll discover what you need first of all is a different point of view. A single outfit will not do, it takes a wardrobe built in time. You could certainly get good advice from LL members how best to start building it (with the most useful pieces given your personal needs), but without some information about yourself it is virtually impossible to advise.

[1894]

I'll chime in for the fun of it. If, for some odd reason, I were to have only one outfit, it would be this:

suit: 14oz mid grey or navy solid worsted
shirt: royal oxford in lite blue or white with a cutaway collar and one-button barrel cuffs
tie: mid blue grenadine
shoes: brown punch cap oxfords, single sole
topcoat: undecided
I'd donate the chance to select a hat to Alan C

Can't quite wear that everywhere but it's what I'd choose.

Cantabrigian, thank you. i am asking in the spirit of 'for the fun of it' and your post has given me some valuable information.

Costi, i understand. although i would have liked seeing your response, i give up.

here's some info about me:

5'11" 170 lbs. (man in the 1920's balmoral boot photo is very close). light olive complexion. there is no social or professional expectations. i'm free to wear anything. the budget is not an issue, but i don't like a lot of stuff- a minimalist with expensive taste, i guess. i live in the north east of the US. new york, boston, philadelphia, etc. i am not looking to travel beyond that.
i like the unpoilished presence of 1890-1920 but in the 50's line.

for shoes: the balmoral boot is close but witih a lower heel.
for a hat, the christy's harris tweed herringbone rex is it, but with a lower softer top.
i like shirt shoulders and coats that look 'stuffed'.
for pants, flat front high rise, tapered with thick circular cuffs and no break, no press, no crease.
shirts, small soft, spread high collars, no pockets, no pleats, no yolk, single button in the lower-midlde of cuff- close fit, so that it opens a little towards the hand.
tie- flat bottom flat weave or flat knit, a touch short in length. (width: possibly 3", not sure)
cardigan- 5 button lower neck, no pockets. last button to be open above waist.

just some ideas that i haven't been able to shake for over a year.

[HappyStroller]

Was about to recommend clothing and apparel suitable for the rather formal American Brahmin for top ranking executives, but with the further details provided, perhaps the traditional Ivy League style might be more suitable for a doctor's office, a walk in late fall as well as a park bench rest in mid-July.

Perhaps you could match your suit or jacket to the Harris tweed herringbone hat.

I suppose you xould insist on just one suit; you can always take off the jacket and tie when it gets too hot, and augment the suit with inner and outer clothing and apparel when it gets colder. Inner clothing could include thermal underwear, waistcoat, 3-ply cashmere sweater, V-neck without sleeves for Fall, buttonable with long sleeves for Winter and turtleneck for deep Winter. Outer apparel could include your favourite Harris tweed herringbone hat to be changed to a fur hat with ear flaps in Winter, kneelength anorak or a Raglan-sleeve cashmere overcoat, cashmere scarf, plain leather gloves in Fall to be replaced by furlined gloves in Winter. As you can see, one of each would be strictly not possible if you wish to dress properly according to seasonal conditions. Of course, you can get away with a pair of cowboy jeans, a T-shirt, a woolen sweater and an anorak. I used to do that during my college days.

But you won't be able to dress suitably for White Tie, Black Tie and formal day functions. Also, just imagine the odour if you were to keep wearing the same suit day in and day out, 365 days a year. You'd be running away from all the ladies due to the heavy amount of Phenol-1, 2, 3, 5 and 7 accumulated. But then you'd save by not having to buy those expensive hair gels.

[1894]

Happy, great info, here. thank you, sir.