Camelhair shirt jacket

[Nexus]

Gentlemen,

Being in possession of a beautiful 100% camelhair fabric (light camel colour), I was contemplating on asking my Italian shirtmaker to make a shirt jacket out of it.

The idea is to have something in between a sweater and a sportscoat.

I am thinking of a shirt jacket (giacca camicia with the equivalent shoulder construction and sans canvas) with patch pockets (two hip and one breast) and five buttons (to be able to button it up).

Since this would be my first shirt jacket, I would appreciate any comment or tips on cut and style that would match the fabric. Examples of other members who have successfully commissioned such a garment would be more than welcome.

Furthermore, what should I watch out for when asking a shirtmaker to make a jacket?

[tteplitzmd]

Excellent question. I have made similar inquiries without any response. If you can get your shirtmaker to take this on, please share the information.

[gigi]

I have had successful shirtjackets made by both tailors and shirtmakers on the continent and from a couple of different materials and weights. It is not a particularly difficult process and I have been perfectly happy with the results.

[tteplitzmd]

Any chance of posting some photos? I am very interested in this.

[Nexus]

Any chance of posting some photos? I am very interested in this.

Yes, I would certainly be interested too! Particularly since I'm not sure yet about the model.

For example, how many buttons on the cuffs? And what about lining? I reckon that lining will be necessary with camelhair since the fabric would leave hairs on my clothes if it was to be unlined.

If I understand correctly, the style of a shirt jacket can lean more towards a shirt, or more towards a jacket. As a shirt, it could have shirt cuffs (I remember a particularly interesting tweed example from Mr. Alden), and flapped breast pockets would look appropriate.

More towards a jacket (which is what I'm looking for with this camelhair), the garment would have sportscoat-like cuffs and pockets. However, I can imagine that this model would require a bit more structure. I hope a camelhair without canvas will give it enough structure.

[iammatt]

Any chance of posting some photos? I am very interested in this.

Yes, I would certainly be interested too! Particularly since I'm not sure yet about the model.

For example, how many buttons on the cuffs? And what about lining? I reckon that lining will be necessary with camelhair since the fabric would leave hairs on my clothes if it was to be unlined.

I have a long camelhair duster coat that is basically constructed as a long shirt jacket and even has a shirt collar. It is completely unlined with only taped seams on the interior and I have not noticed any issues with it leaving camelhair on any of my other garments. The camelhair used for the jacket is pretty lightweight.

[Nexus]

Thank you very much for sharing, iammatt.

[tteplitzmd]

The aforementioned example, made for Mr. Alden, by a Roman shirtmaker:



An example made for me in Italian gabardine, lined as well:



I have had difficulty in finding shirtmakers interested in making the lined versions. I would be grateful for any recommendations from experience with UK or Italian shirtmakers. I have previously posted pictures of an unusual Loro Piana cashmere/silk/linen blend of tropical weight, and an Italian "cashco" waiting for this kind of garment.

[tteplitzmd]

A larger sized image:



A RTW Sulka covert cloth, unlined, suede piping, made in Italy:

[Concordia]

I tried to get Bob Whittaker, the shirtmaker at Dege, to take this sort of thing on, and apparently the heavier wool taxes his sewing machines too much. He wanted to kick it over to the tailoring side of the floor. As a jacket costs about 6-7x a shirt, I thought it better to wait.

[smoothjazzone]

Len Logsdail made a really nice shirt jacket for me in a 22 oz. Crombie fabric

I will try to post pictures

[tteplitzmd]

Mr. Smoothjazz, Len's example, machine stitched or handstitched, with canvas or without?


re: Mr. Whittaker, I used him for some time, but stopped using him when instructions were not followed, but I think Concordia's experience is similar to mine: the shirtmakers don't want to do the labor, new pattern and so on. Not worth their time, etc. My question specifically, is, has anyone found a shirtmaker willing to do this with lining (and not punt it to the tailor)?

[alden]

In my experience these shirt jackets turn out the best when a rather heavy or rigid fabric is used. I have had a few made from 18-20 ounce tweeds and a few years ago I made a spring-early summer version from an old 16 ozs fresco.

If the material is too light and soft, the shirtjacket will sort of crumple up and lose shape.

Michael Alden

[tteplitzmd]

The tweed and fresco versions, were they lined, Mr. Alden? If so, by a shirtmaker or tailor? Since there is no canvas, presumably a shirtmanker can (will?) do it?

[alden]

My shirt jackets are unlined, no canvas and made by an excellent shirtmaker.

Michael