Pics of morning dress

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

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Concordia
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Mon May 14, 2007 3:24 am

Note the single-link cuffs on the shirt!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fVSgx7gK ... ed&search=


And a modified approach to everyone's favorite sub-topic, the stroller:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bqmmTjC3 ... ed&search=

The trousers are quite dark in these kinescopes, but in still photos I've seen him wear traditional stripes with this jacket/vest/bow tie combination.
HappyStroller
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Mon May 14, 2007 7:32 am

I have yet to figure out how detachable single link cuffs are constructed so that they can be attached to the rest of the sleeve. Does any gentleman have a good idea? In particular, what kind of holes, if any, and what kind of connectors are used?
couch
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Mon May 14, 2007 7:27 pm

Concordia, thanks for these wonderful links (not only of sartorial interest).

The Heifetz particularly is also a superb example of a coat that stays put when the (bow) arm is raised to the horizontal and vigorously moved around. I don't know whether the extra weight of the morning coat, or the fact that it's a body coat, help in this, but it would be a great thing to show one's tailor, along with Astaire dancing.
Concordia
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Mon May 14, 2007 7:32 pm

When people discuss the desire for high armholes and drape, they are often hankering for freedom of movement such as these men required in their professional lives.

Toscanini needed much the same facility, and got it. Not from the most famous source, however-- I've read that Scholte tossed him out of the shop after learning that he was a musician.
Sator
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Tue May 15, 2007 10:20 am

Fabulous clips, Concordia. It nice to see Heifetz flash that cheeky grin at the end of the Mozart. It's such a contrast to his usual stern pocker face. As for the Toscanini, I was a bit disappointed as I thought I was going to get to see and hear him do the whole Force of Destiny overture. His Verdi is incredibly idiomatic with all that red blooded Italianate phrasing and all. Marvelous stuff!

Here is my favourite picture of a famous musician in morning dress:

Image

It is of course, the great Arthur Nikisch, Wilhelm Furtwängler's legendary predecessor in Berlin.
SilkCity
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Tue May 15, 2007 8:57 pm

Concordia wrote:When people discuss the desire for high armholes and drape, they are often hankering for freedom of movement such as these men required in their professional lives.

Toscanini needed much the same facility, and got it. Not from the most famous source, however-- I've read that Scholte tossed him out of the shop after learning that he was a musician.
Fabulous!
Does anyone know who the maestro's maker(s) was(were)?

I believe that Finollo (Genova) did some shirts for him.
Sc
Sator
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Wed May 16, 2007 12:52 am

I believe the long defunct Prandoni were Toscanini's tailors.
Sir Royston
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Thu Oct 02, 2008 3:51 pm

HappyStroller wrote:I have yet to figure out how detachable single link cuffs are constructed so that they can be attached to the rest of the sleeve. Does any gentleman have a good idea? In particular, what kind of holes, if any, and what kind of connectors are used?
Have you seen the Bowns Bespoke site?

If I am correct in assuming you are talking about shirts with detachable cuffs ten have a look at
www.bownsbespoke.com
HappyStroller
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Fri Oct 03, 2008 9:45 am

Thank you very much for your kind lead to the wonderful bownsbespoke site, Sir Royston. And it's been quite a long while since I last visited your own site, very useful indeed for all kinds of formal wear accessories. Will do soon.
Sir Royston
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Fri Oct 03, 2008 10:03 am

HappyStroller wrote:Thank you very much for your kind lead to the wonderful bownsbespoke site, Sir Royston. And it's been quite a long while since I last visited your own site, very useful indeed for all kinds of formal wear accessories. Will do soon.
My Pleasure. Hope to see you soon!
storeynicholas

Mon Oct 06, 2008 10:50 pm

Concordia wrote:When people discuss the desire for high armholes and drape, they are often hankering for freedom of movement such as these men required in their professional lives.

Toscanini needed much the same facility, and got it. Not from the most famous source, however-- I've read that Scholte tossed him out of the shop after learning that he was a musician.
I've read that too - odd that Scholte accepted Jack Buchanan!
NJS
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