Hymo and hair cloth and fabric identification (pics)

[oscarsfan]

Hello,

I have posted this on SF but thought that I may get a better response here.

I will be travelling to asia over the summer. Most of the tailors produce fused junk.
A few know the "old" methods (sometimes from colonial legacy) of canvassed garments.
I have a few unusual pieces of fabric that I do not feel justify Corvato/Raphael/Longsdail etc prices. (They are not exaclty Carlo barbera/Lesser quality either). However, I would still like to take my own canvassing/hymo so that I am not at the mercy of what ever these tailors can get their hands on.

B. Black has a few offerings.

There is an item called "Hair cloth" under the "canvas" heading (item T15-R)
http://www.bblackandsons.com/store/canvas.html

and there are "Hymo" (which contain goat hair)
http://www.bblackandsons.com/store/hymo.html

the premade fronts are made from hymo
http://www.bblackandsons.com/store/fronts.html


Can someone explain the difference between haircloth and hymo? What is the difference in their function?

I will be travelling to Asia this summer and as many places do not have good canvas, I was planning to take my own. If I understand their functions correctly, I need both hair cloth and hymo? Does anyone know how much for a 44" suit? Any opinions on the premade "fronts".

Can anyone help me identify this fabric? The pattern is rich and a little out of the ordinary.


[INDENT][/INDENT]

It is a very interesting variation on a plaid. About 20-21 ounce. I will get this made into a very conservative cut (2B, notch lapel, single vent) suit. I am just very curious as who/which mill/vendor would have ordered such an interesting fabric.



These are some more of the unusual fabrics:




To get an idea of the scale, the rectangle is the Ben Silver catalogue:


This reminds me of Etro (may be with a little Missoni)




Debating which gets made first the one with big boxes shown above or this rust one.



Colour is more accurate in the first picture. It is rust with mustard and light green lines making windowpanes.



I have a fondness for unusual fabrics
This is a tweed suit jacket that was made last summer. I was wearing it on the day of the Sartorial Excellence exhibition. Chuck Franco commented he liked it. Logsdail too commented on the unusual fabric.



Thank you

-

[AlexanderKabbaz]

Where are all the tailors???

Hymo, canvas, and hairvas generally refer to the same thing, a medium-weight canvas used in the construction of coat (jacket) fronts.

Hair cloth is a much stiffer type of canvas whose weft is made from the manes of horses. It is placed, in a semi-bias direction, on the upper section of the canvas to keep the chest and shoulder firm as well as to control the crease of the revers.

Some tailors substitute a second layer of canvas in this area rather than using the haircloth.

[Despos]

Where are all the tailors???

Your status as docent will suffice. We are not needed.

I will address the other question. The hymo T15CC from B. Black is 60" wide. Buy about 6 inches longer than your jacket length. From one length of hymo you have enough for 2 jackets. If the haircloth is 24' wide you need one yard for 2 jackets.
You also need flannelette to cover the haircloth. You may also want to purchase a good quality collar linen if you are suspect of the makers use of quality materials.
The hymo needs to be cold water shrunk before cutting. If not, you will have major problems after the jacket is made.

[oscarsfan]

Where are all the tailors???

Your status as docent will suffice. We are not needed.

I will address the other question. The hymo T15CC from B. Black is 60" wide. Buy about 6 inches longer than your jacket length. From one length of hymo you have enough for 2 jackets. If the haircloth is 24' wide you need one yard for 2 jackets.
You also need flannelette to cover the haircloth. You may also want to purchase a good quality collar linen if you are suspect of the makers use of quality materials.
The hymo needs to be cold water shrunk before cutting. If not, you will have major problems after the jacket is made.

Muchos, Muchos gracias!! Once the coats are made, I hope to post pictures.

Have been advised by few that the large check is a little too large. If I can find an inexpensive tailor who can pattern match, then this will be an interesting exercise.

-

[AlexanderKabbaz]

We are not needed.

Goes without saying.

[oscarsfan]

We are not needed.

Goes without saying.

In the manner of the typical high schooler: "yeah right!!!"


Would a kind tailor elucidate on the different weights of the hymo and their applications. I have heard it both ways, 1) heavy fabric needs heavy hymo to be able to support it. 2) very light fabric doesnt work with very light hymo, need body or something. .. Does working with lighter weight hymo requires more skill?

What are the factors in selecting light/vs medium vs heavy hymo? When is hair cloth used or not used? or is this a trade secret?

Thanks once again. I find it amazing and fortunate, that those of us who have moved beyond mass market, mass produced clothing, find a way of learning about how the bespoke items are created.

[oscarsfan]

Where are all the tailors???

Your status as docent will suffice. We are not needed.

I will address the other question. The hymo T15CC from B. Black is 60" wide. Buy about 6 inches longer than your jacket length. From one length of hymo you have enough for 2 jackets. If the haircloth is 24' wide you need one yard for 2 jackets.
You also need flannelette to cover the haircloth. You may also want to purchase a good quality collar linen if you are suspect of the makers use of quality materials.
The hymo needs to be cold water shrunk before cutting. If not, you will have major problems after the jacket is made.

I just purchased some hymo, some haircloth and a pair of premade fronts. First item at http://www.sewtrue.com/CustomTailoringSupplies.html ?

Has anyone any experience/opinions on these premade fronts?

How would you rate the quality. Say comparable to HF canvassed? Samuelsohn? Isaia??

Also as Chris Despos has stated, hymo is supposed to be shrunk in water. As these are already put together. Does one soak the entire thing?


Is one also supposed to soak the haircloth?


I ended up ordering from sew True, does anyone know if the BBlack haircloth and hymo are similar to Sew True. These appear to be VERY stiff. I was hoping for softer material.

Can someone guide me towards softer options for canvas? Plan on making a silk/wool jacket and dont want to look like a seargant major!


Thanks