Evolution of the Teplitz 3 button model (1990-2006)

[tteplitzmd]

Several members have asked about the 3 button model I prefer. I wanted to show how this has evolved over the years, beginning with a Chipp MTM jacket, moving on to the Chipp bespoke, Chan bespoke, and Logsdail bespoke. The differences will not always be apparant from the crude pictures. I view it as a work in progress.

Chipp MTM Porter & Harding lambswool:



Chipp bespoke Carlo Barbera (Blancs):



WW Chan bespoke:



Logsdail bespoke Carlo Barbera (Blancs)



The original Chipp model had a steep hook vent, I then moved on to side vents. The body remains not darted, lapel roll to just below the top button, natural shoulders, yes, a sack suit. At some point I will post photos with the jackets on.

[Cantabrigian]

Thank you for the pictires - it is interesting to see how your style has evolved in the past 16 years.

What made you decide to leave off the ticket pocket while going to double vents - seems to pull in different directions, simultaneously making your coats more and less 'English' in style.

[tteplitzmd]

I got tired of the ticket pockets, and put them only on some sports jackets. I decided they detracted or distracted from the suppression of the waist, such as it is. The steep hook vent was an Ivy League-ish affectation (I think J Press still does them), and it was different. I think the side vents now are more flattering.

There are several distinctively, non Anglo aspects to these jackets: no darts, precise three button roll, not a basterdized pseudo 3 button, added as an after thought to the conventional two button, and the placement and shape of the notch and collar (gorge I guess). Button stance is also quite different form your average Anglo jacket. It is subtle and does not show well in the photos, but the Logsdail button stance is a bit different from the others, as is the waist suppression. Shoulders and armholes on the Teplitz model are decisively non Anglo.

The look without darts is what I prefer. Most tailors either "roll their eyes" or mutter expletives that I presume are Sicilian dialect, when asked to forego the darts.

Terry Teplitz

[Cantabrigian]

How did Leonard react when you came to him asking for a very much American-styled suit?

[tteplitzmd]

Very rationally. I discussed the shortcomings of my Chan model, left shoulder, pockets placed too high, front balance, sleeve placement, wanting more hand work. Leonard identified and suggested the necessary modifications.

I think the photo shows subtle differences, and a favorable style, without darts, and some aspects of an Anglo jacket. For my particular body habitus, I have always felt that the non darted 3 button model, with a bit of waist suppression (actually well above the waist), disguises or minimizes what the Chinese call "prominent tummy." So, you get something like )_( ... rather than \/ ...the latter looks better on linebackers.

[Mark Seitelman]

Terry, we discussed that you had worked with Chan over a period of time (and over a number of suits and sportscoats) to get your model right.

How do you feel about the coats made by the three makers?

[tteplitzmd]

I must give credit to Chipp's MTM maker: Linetter, now defunct. Chipp had a very good in house tailor, who did the grey herringbone suit illustrated. He passed away. Several subsequent Chipp (now Winston) efforts were not as good. However, Chipp/Winston did the topcoat and overcoat in covert cloths shown in my photojournal. I think they did a great job on the covert overcoat and topcoat. Not so great on bespoke blazer (not illustrated). They had trouble with the roll and sholders.

I have been to Hong Kong twice, and the key to Chan is to be there for the requisite 3 fittings. I had them copy early Chipp bespoke. On balance I am very happy with Chan, and the shortcomings are substantially my own fault for being unwilling to go to Hong Kong to fine tune the model. That said, it is a work in progress.

Clearly, the Logsdail effort trumps the others. I say this in terms of fit, style, detail, and I presume workmanship (although I am really not knowledgeable about this aspect). The Barbera cloth used in the Logsdail jacket is unforgiving owing to its light weight, and it is superbly comfortable. The button stance, lapel width, collar shape, all add to a subtle bespoke quality in my opinion. I think the point of bespoke for me is to be able to get the jacket without darts, and be successful. My compliments to Mr. Logsdail for taking on the challenge.

[smoothjazzone]

Dr. Teplitz:

Could you explain why you like the sack suit silhouette and if it suits certain body types more than others. I am most curious about this because besides you and Dopey (who prefers a more structured coat), most everyone else here seems to or at least claims to like variations of the soft, draped look (A&S, Napoli, etc.).

Thanks.

P.S. Could you post pictures of the coats on you. Thanks.

[tteplitzmd]

Dear Mr. Smoothjazz,

I will wear one to the Tip Top field trip Saturday, which I think you're also attending. I am posting several photos of the model on me, in situ, as it were:


[/img]http://img234.imageshack.us/img234/4219 ... 7fc.jp[img]

[/img]http://img234.imageshack.us/img234/9357/pict04708cl.jpg



As I noted in an earlier post, I think the attractiveness of this model for me, is related to my particular body habitus: short, prominent tummy, etc. Also, I am in a conservative profession, in a conservative city, etc. Ultimately preference for this or any model is largely a matter of personal preference and perception. I believe I look dreadful, frankly ridiculous, in the "Modello Ed Hayes" (an inside joke, ask Mr. CollarMelton).

I like the modest suppression of the "waist" (above the waist), the natural shoulders, wide(r) armholes, button stance, lapel roll, notch height (gorge), collar shape, lapel width, and sleeve taper. The contour of the "waist" suppression and the relative height of the waist suppression is different than on the SR models, the latter being more linear rather than the "curvilinear" line I prefer. The SR silhouette strikes me as rather rhombic
at least for my stature and build. To my mind, darts actually call attention to my tummy, notwithstanding the tailor's conviction that it allows better shaping. I do have darts on my topcoat, because the layer allows for hiding of my tummy a bit, and then gives a more "tailored" look. I am not thin enough to carry it off on a jacket alone.

[tteplitzmd]

[tteplitzmd]