Centofanti raglan coat

[Guest]

I was inspired by Ed Hayes' coat to have my own made. Photos are in my album. I wanted something more rustic and English and what came out was very similar to the coat depicted on Panico's (sic?) web site ("caputo raglan").

[MildlyConsumptiv]

Nice! You are ready for the grouse moor. What NHTC tweed is that?

[Guest]

I don't remember. 614?

[Costi]

I particularly appreciate the cut of the seamless sleeves. I find it looks better (but I understand it is somewhat more difficult to cut correctly and fit properly) than the type of raglan sleeve that has a central seam running down the length of the arm in full sight. With this latter type it is easier to achieve good fit (the central seam can work as a fine-tuning tool) and, for a raglan overcoat, yours looks impeccable to me with regard to fit. To give you some criticism, too - had I been you I might have considered a different size of windowpane. By the way, what is the light-coloured stuff of which the jettings and the sleeve straps are made? Leather?

[Guest]

The trim, which is also on the reverse of the collar, is ultrasuede. Several points: I initially requested leather or alcantara (artificial leather). Centofanti rejected the first because he said the leather would not resist the heat he needed to shape the garment. He rejected alcantara because he never used it and he thought it would look cheap. So far as the shade of ultrasuede, apparently ultrasuede, which used to be more popular, has declined and only a few variations on tan are available. He selected the precise shade that he thought went best, but they were all tan.

Obviously, the garment fits properly. The style is more Italian than British, to my eye. I really wanted darker trim, and I would have preferred the collar to be all brown alcantara or leaher. The coat is designed warm, but the fabric has its limits and I am purchasing a fleece jacket especially to wear with it. I selected the fabric from the tweeds that were available from NHTC (they sent me swatches) and I selected the heaviest one (I think) and one of the most subtle since some were really garish.

I paid $2000 plus the cost of the fabric (~$400).

On the good side, it is very comfortable and well designed. Were it heavier, I probably would wear it less. I ntended it as a car coat alternative to my sheepskin, which is my warmest garment, but which I do not always want to wear. It serves the purpose I needed it for, and as Centofanti pointed out, it will outlast me.

[Guest]

The trim, which is also on the reverse of the collar, is ultrasuede. Several points: I initially requested leather or alcantara (artificial leather). Centofanti rejected the first because he said the leather would not resist the heat he needed to shape the garment. He rejected alcantara because he never used it and he thought it would look cheap. So far as the shade of ultrasuede, apparently ultrasuede, which used to be more popular, has declined and only a few variations on tan are available. He selected the precise shade that he thought went best, but they were all tan.

Obviously, the garment fits properly. The style is more Italian than British, to my eye. I really wanted darker trim, and I would have preferred the collar to be all brown alcantara or leaher. The coat is designed warm, but the fabric has its limits and I am purchasing a fleece jacket especially to wear with it. I selected the fabric from the tweeds that were available from NHTC (they sent me swatches) and I selected the heaviest one (I think) and one of the most subtle since some were really garish.

I paid $2000 plus the cost of the fabric (~$400).

On the good side, it is very comfortable and well designed. Were it heavier, I probably would wear it less. I ntended it as a car coat alternative to my sheepskin, which is my warmest garment, but which I do not always want to wear. It serves the purpose I needed it for, and as Centofanti pointed out, it will outlast me.

[oscarsfan]

I was inspired by Ed Hayes' coat to have my own made. Photos are in my album. I wanted something more rustic and English and what came out was very similar to the coat depicted on Panico's (sic?) web site ("caputo raglan").

Hello,

Can you post a link, I am having difficulties finding the pictures.

Thank you

-

[Guest]

http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/gallery/b ... aglan_coat