Hi Lance,
As to the 'balance' of the design, Mr. Bestetti allows the client to specify almost (if not all) the detailing of the shoes, so the captoe with the longer 'cap' may have been a spec. by one customer as opposed to the other with the shorter 'cap'. In fact, you can design a shoe yourself, and if Mr. Bestetti will realise it for you (although he will express his own opinions regarding your design!) but all design imbalances is yours alone.
Considering the 'pegging', he can do either a pegged waist or (as the photo above shows) welted from waist to waist. I asked him about it and he says that he prefers the pegs for strength. As Janne on the other site commented, it may well be stronger.
... Third, Mr. Bestetti seems to cut the outsole in horizontally from the edge in order to hide his stitches -- the UK makers I'm familiar with cut it in at an angle from the bottom of the sole; the latter is bit more challenging, but I'm told it is a bit better at ensuring the flap doesn't come loose
I don't understand what you mean
![Sad :(](./images/smilies/icon_sad.gif)
. I am not as well versed as you and Cusey and Rolf regarding terminology.
Regarding the soles: I saw in his store several that had the 'half black' type finishes, some with the 'Ducal sole' type finishes (the one that Vass is currently emulating), and some with the ones above. Again it is what the customer chooses. I chose one with a natural type finish.
My own opinion. Well I liked them enough to place an order
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
! He is able to do a wide range of 'styles', from the utterly sublime to the totally unexpected (Timberland type boots!). His last design and especially his chisel toes really have to be seen in person to be fully appreciated - in fact some of the chisel nosed shoes in the showroom are as beautiful as any Cleverley I own or have seen. I agree that in some areas of finishing he may not do as 'perfectionist' a job as some English and French shoemakers, I think this is a result of being basically a one man show - he not only creates the last, but cuts the leather, stitches it together, welts the shoe, lasts the shoe, adds the sole, etc, etc. Unlike the others who use specialised outworkers for various stages. However, in some areas of detailing he is as good as or better than some other makers; in areas such as some edge finishing/detailing on some visible areas where the inner lining meet the outer leather. I don't have pictures unfortunately. His finishing of the upper again varies upon the customer's desires; I saw some incredibly beautiful brown antiqued shoes that would put the standard antiquing on EG to shame, and would make Kiton's finest offerings look garish. As for his skill as a lastmaker, the first trial shoe that I fit was very very very good! In fact, if only laces were put on them I would have been tempted to walk away with them. It was incredibly comfortable with no tightness nor excess, but he found that a millimetre here and there would make it better! So I await my next trial shoe with anticipation.