Bespoke tailor

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

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Wheels
Posts: 8
Joined: Fri Sep 23, 2005 4:55 pm
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Sat Nov 26, 2005 7:24 pm

Gentlemen

I appeal to your collective knowledge and experience in aiding my search. I'm searching for a Saville Row tailor with a house style closest to the suit found on the mannequin at the bottom of the following webpage:

http://www.tmlewin.co.uk/webapp/wcs/sto ... suits.html

It's a pinned TM Lewin suit and while I can easily pick one up from Jermyn Street, I have fit issues with their OTR suits but still quite like the slim flitting silhouette, high gorge and so forth. I'd therefore very much like to have a bespoke suit made in a similar silhouette. In terms of tailors, are there any obvious choices? I'm inclined to think Kilgour but defer to your collective sartorial knowledge.

Thanks very much
Wheels
exigent
Posts: 69
Joined: Sat Jul 30, 2005 11:25 pm
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Sun Nov 27, 2005 6:33 am

Wheels wrote:Gentlemen

I appeal to your collective knowledge and experience in aiding my search. I'm searching for a Saville Row tailor with a house style closest to the suit found on the mannequin at the bottom of the following webpage:

http://www.tmlewin.co.uk/webapp/wcs/sto ... suits.html

It's a pinned TM Lewin suit and while I can easily pick one up from Jermyn Street, I have fit issues with their OTR suits but still quite like the slim flitting silhouette, high gorge and so forth. I'd therefore very much like to have a bespoke suit made in a similar silhouette. In terms of tailors, are there any obvious choices? I'm inclined to think Kilgour but defer to your collective sartorial knowledge.

Thanks very much
Wheels

Kindly look at the right lapel on the grey pinstripe shown in the advert: note that the thing is doing the bloody wave! I beseech you, Wheels, stick with the new plan.

The silhouette you like is quite English, and can therefore be created by several firms on the row. Kilgour is a good choice for this kind of higher gorge three-button front, but Poole will also execute it nicely. The style in question has the lines of a riding jacket, which should have you considering a tailor who benefits from at least a passing acquaintance with the equestrian set.
encooper
Posts: 21
Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 3:43 pm
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Mon Nov 28, 2005 11:31 pm

You may want to check out Dege & Skinner, a firm that has a military/equestrian/hunting heritage. It is very hard to tell what you are looking for because the picture (as you pointed out) is a pinned OTR suit on a mannequin. Dege & Skinner suits have pronounced waist supression (even on average-sized guys like me) as well as a pronounced skirt.
Wheels
Posts: 8
Joined: Fri Sep 23, 2005 4:55 pm
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Wed Nov 30, 2005 2:06 pm

Gentlemen

Thanks very much for your suggestions. The suppression in the photograph and the kind I prefer starts a lot higher (ie indicating a smaller and higher latissimus dorsi) than in, for example, a Hunstman (a more severe pinch lower down, indicating larger and wider 'lats'). This makes it more like a 'Y' shape and less like a 'V' or 'X'. On the continent, I think Attolini comes quite close, but limiting myself to the Row and given my financial status, I might opt for the less expensive Kilgour entry level bespoke and see how it goes.

Thanks again
Wheels
jklu
Posts: 76
Joined: Mon Oct 17, 2005 6:33 am
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Sun Dec 04, 2005 8:32 am

I am currently having a similarly cut suit made up by Kilgour because my body shape requires it. At my first fitting, it looked great (for a basted fitting). Good luck.
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