Kent style DB followup

[alden]

The photographer in question does not know how to use a camera and is standing in an awkward position. Nevertheless, the subject in question, is a DB made with the Kent style (and Etutee's post on the subject) in mind. The buttoning point was raised a bit to make the lapel length from the bottom button more reasonable in length.




An interesting experiment that can be worn in the traditional manner as well.


Cheers

[manton]

Very nice. I like that much more than the 6-button keystone button stance, which only ever seemed to look good on Astaire. The other examples are just disasters. (See the picture of Astaire and Bing Crosby standing side by side, for instance.)

I think one of the things that makes that coat look so good is that the "show" buttons are no placed so far out, but only a touch wider than the bottom four.

Great lapels, too.

What's the cloth?

[alden]

Manton,

The cloth is H Lesser 13 ozs.

[Alias]

That's a great roll there in the lapel. I also see that the lapels curve inwards at the peaks. Nice look, I think it elongates.

[manton]

Manton,

The cloth is H Lesser 13 ozs.

Why am I not surprised?

[Collarmelton]

The buttoning point was raised a bit to make the lapel length from the bottom button more reasonable in length.

This is exactly what Nicolosi told me he was doing to a DB I have in the works. He says that a long roll will better accommodate my shortness, but that to long roll the lapel of a DB cut to be buttoned in the traditional place will make for odd proportions.

[Raglan]

Just received Kent style DB in grey flannel (inspired by Astaire I guess ) Pictures to follow...

[Etutee]

Dear Mr. Alden,

I just noticed this thread and was extremely happy to see such a beautiful suit. While I am sure all aspects of the suit are great...including cloth as you mentioned...I will specifically mention the shape of the lapel. MARVELOUS!

I can spot that lapel shape from a mile. As a said before...from the start of the lapel at bottom button to the middle one, then from there to breast pocket height, and then finally to the end...simply neat! I usually prefer them slightly wider than these over here...but on any given day would wear this suit with delight.

One a slightly amusing note I recall a funny incident when I fought (argumentatively) with people at A&S. It was four of them Mr. Williams (now retired), Mr. Hitchcock, Mr. Haywood and one pant cutter (Mr. Malone?) against me. They said, at A&S we have never changed specifics / proportions since 30s when they where established.

Now...if you know me...then you should know that I am NOT going to let that one fly. That is just nonsense. A&S default DB lapel (of today) is nowhere close to resemble anything that they created in 30s or 40s. Back then they were board lapels (actually in early 30s built like Scholte’s) and shaped much differently from how they make them these days. So, after solid 20 minutes of argument...I made all 4 of them admit (albeit very reluctantly) that indeed they have changed the shape of lapels over the decades. The default Savile Row DB lapel is rather narrow and certainly not to my taste.

By the way…I really like how you played with the button stance.

Congratulations & May you wear it in the best of health.

Sincerely
Etutee

[alden]

Etutee

I am very glad you liked the coat.

Lapels must have a bit of belly to them. How many times do we see narrow, straight as a board lapels? They appear to be in a sartorial state of rigor mortis. Belly gives character to DB and SB lapels.

What little has changed over the years at AS has been the result of generations of cutters who have brought their interpretations of AS to life. This melting pot of modifications and tastes has created an impressive gene pool that benefits educated AS clients today. Yes, you have to be a bit persistent, but that's not uncommon for those who search products of character. You have to know what you want and be a bit demanding in order to get it.

Cheers

[pchong]

Sorry for reviving this thread...but I have a question, Mr. Alden on this coat.

1. is the middle button able to close? you aluded that it could.
2. if it is not closed, it seems to me that it is possible for the lapel to gape open when you sit down. Or would the cut be such that this wouldn't be?

[alden]

is the middle button able to close?

Yes.

if it is not closed, it seems to me that it is possible for the lapel to gape open when you sit down.

Yes, it is better to fasten the top button when sitting.