Brian Russell, ex- Anderson's cutter

[bry2000]

On the other forum, there was mention of a London tailor called Brian Russell, who was an ex-senior cutter at A&S. He is now on his own on Sackville Street. It was mentioned that if you wanted a true A&S suit, you should go to Russell. Has anyone used Russell? If so, can you comment on his suits? Is he truer to the A&S look than Mahon, Hitchcock, or Steed? Any insight or recommendations would be most appreciated.

Thank you.

[Leonard Logsdail]

Brian is a dyed-in-the-wool Anderson man. He epitomizes everything that A&S stood for.


Leonard

[Raglan]

I have to agree with Leonard here, Brian Russell is very much old-school A&S.

I'm very much a believer of the A&S look and have had suits made up by Hitchcock, Russell and Mahon (although I am still waiting for Mahon's suits). I'm not sure there is such a thing as a true A&S look anymore, as each cutter has his own unique style and interpretation of it (Russell's suits have more shape than Hitchcocks', leading to a more athletic look; however, I like the details on a Hitchock suit - higher gorge than normal, lovely vents and back. Both make exceptionally soft coats, although Hitchcock might have the edge there. I will have to check when I go home tonight).

I wasn't around in old A&S (Harvey, Halberry) days, so can't be confident on commenting on what that style was like compared to todays'. By all accounts though, Russell was very proud of making in the A&S tradition, and was known for goading others for non A&S practices!

He is an opinionated fellow

[bry2000]

Raglan,

Would you recommend Russell? What about Russell vs. Hitchcock? Thank you.

[Raglan]

Yes, I would recommend Russell. Very able, experienced and detail oriented cutter who is not afraid to say what he thinks (very honest and direct feedback about what will work or not work). Also an excellent alterations tailor. In addition, I find it pleasant to work with him.

Russell vs. Hitchcock, is somewhat more difficult a question to answer. I believe that Russell may have the edge in experience (he has, after all, been cutting suits longer than Hitchock has), while Hitchcock cuts excellent DBs, which are his speciality. I have two suits from Russell, and about six or seven from Hitchcock, and would find it hard to choose between the two fairly at this point. I have not worn the Russell suits sufficiently to judge (they are flannel, and it is still summer here). Let's just put it this way, there are things that I like about both cutters (from gorge to silhouette, to softness), and it is all very subjective; the day I find all those things combined in one cutter, I will be sold!

My favourite suits for the moment are Hitchcock made, Russell altered ones if that helps!
Sorry for the confusion, hope this helps...

[bry2000]

Thanks, Raglan. That is a good summary and analysis.