Italian Shoes

[uppercase]

We don't talk much about the Italian makers and retailers.

Almost as if the Italians don't rank among the best any longer.

Is that the case? Or is this a matter of LL members' preference favoring the classic British models? Are Italian made shoes still considered among the front runners in a gentleman's bespoke wardrobe?

I wonder who you consider the best Italian shoe makers today, both bespoke and RTW.?

And what do the elegant Italian gentlemen wear themselves? I am always interested to learn what the elegant local wears, knowing that the Kitons, Brionis etc. sell overwhelmingly to a foreign, non-Italian clientele.

I have not closely observed if indeed the Italian dandy is shod by EG, or Lobb or Churchs rather than Lattanzi, Sutor or Bonaro.

What is the true Italian style and preference in shoes? Who does the discerning Italilian consider makes beautiful shoes today?
Or has the Italian gentleman migrated to SR /Burlington Arcade style, if not make?

At the highest end Italian, I have limited experience and exposure; I have seen shoes by Kiton, Rubinacci, Lattanzi, Bonaro and Bemer; with the exception of Lattanzi, who is way out in left field for my taste, and perhaps Bemer a bit, those makers are quite conservative in the British style, as I recall though perhaps with a bit more interesting coloring of the leathers and a bit slimmer, elongated last. But still with the brogueing and thicker soles and general feel of gravitas.

Who would you go to today to buy a fine Italian shoe? Or are you sticking to the tried and true British classics....?

[jcusey]

Have you seen Jona's Photojournal album of his Bestetti bespoke shoes?

http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/gallery/album21

Other Loungers are more qualified to discuss this than I am, but my understanding is that there are many, many Italian bespoke cordwainers. Aside from a few big names like Gatto and Bemer, most of us haven't heard of them because they're very small operations, because they don't travel to take measurements like the English makers do, and because most of we English speakers would have trouble commissioning bespoke shoes in Italian. It's the same with Italian bespoke tailors: there are plenty of them, but how many have you heard of besides Rubinacci and Caraceni?

[Guest]

That is true. There are many shoemakers, for example in Milano alone. All of them make excellent handwork, and all of them are almost unknown to the general public, as they do not go to Pitti ... well prices are along the 1500 border and design is invariably influenced from the most classical English style.