thickness of pick stitching

[JRS]

Gentlemen, when I've looked at the pick stitching on various RTW jackets both in person and on the internet, it's always looked like pin pricks to me. On the jacket I'm having made, the stitching is definitely more visible. I don't have the jacket in front of me so it's hard to say whether it's because a thicker thread is used or some other reason, but there is a definite difference. Just to be clear, I'm not talking about the number of stitches per inch, but the actual thickness of each stitch.

Now that I think of it though, all of the in progress jackets that the tailor showed me were casual jackets, mostly for one very wealthy customer, including one sportsjacket in pink cashmere, no less. I never thought I'd have anything good to say about a pink jacket, but it was absolutely stunning in my opinion. The color was such that the slight constrast with the thread showed-up very nicely. I'm wondering if this is just something the tailor does for more casual jackets, or if he uses it on all of his garments. I commented that I really loved the stitching, which is maybe why he didn't ask me about my preferences for the thickness of the stitching on my jacket. Is this just a personal preference thing or are there other possible reasons for the difference?

One question he did ask me during the initial consultation was how far away from the edges of the lapels and straight seams that I would like this stitching to be. He suggested closer for more formal and farther for less formal.

Can anyone offer an opinion here?

[uppercase]

That's interesting but I don't have answers.

The pick stiching that I have seen on suits is close to the lapel edge plus much the same color as the suit material so the thread itself does not show up but rather just the indentations on the lapel.

I haven't noticed regarding the thickness of the thread but will take a closer look; it may just be a peculiarity of each tailor's style but I do suspect that the prominence of the stiching would be stylistically greater on a sports coat than a suit. Generally the closer the stich and finer the thread would be to my eye both more attractive, more formal and represent finer tailoring work.

As to contrasting stiching, yes I think that that can be very attractive if tastefully done; also adding two rows of stiching on a sports coat is a style that I have seen and find good looking.

[JRS]

Perhaps I'm using the wrong name for the stitch employed. Maybe it's just some sort of decorative stitch, I'm really not sure because it's been a while since i've seen the finished garments and during my first fitting, i was admittedly paying more attention to how the jacket fit than anything else.

And I do want to specify that it's not a contrast stitch per se. When I said there was a slight contrast between the stitch and the pink cashmere on that other jacket i saw, i really did mean a slight contrast. It's on account of the vibrant color of the jacket that it would be impossible for any thread not to contrast at least to some small degree. The thread being used on my jacket is probably as close to exact a match as you can find.

I'll try and post detailed pictures for dissection when all is said and done, but in the meantime, I'm curious.

As a side note, the tailor is Armenian. I don't know whether or not that will allow anyone to make some guesses about how me he might possibly have been trained. I'm actually going to inquire about that in a casual way on my next visit.

[BirdofSydney]

Mr. JRS,

I understand that what you refer to is quite correctly called pick stitching. In any event, I also have seen it applied in a spectrum of circumstances from quite conservative to a bolder stich which contrasts. On a pale blue sportscoat, for example, in a slightly darker and more vivid blue. This may have to do with the imperfect matching of thread and cloth colours, or a more intentional attempt to stand out.

Like so many expressions of sylistic individuality, it always treads the fine line between chic and gauche. With an experienced tailor, falling on the right side is not too hard though. Generally, the narrower the visible stitch, and the closer to the edge, the safer you'll be. When you're wearing a pink coat, well, I'll leave that to your judgement!

I wonder if anyone is familiar with stitching about a centimetre in from the lapel and also the pocket edges. I've seen this from time to time, not often well done, and it piqued my curiousity. It's a look suited to a sportscoat with patch pockets, if at all, I feel.

Kind regards,

Eden

[JRS]

Thanks for the reply, I would just like to point out that the pink cashmere jacket was not for me, it was one of several jackets shown to me by the tailor that were being made for another customer. Although I probably wouldn't have a jacket like that made until I had 20 others in my closet, it was still a beautiful jacket for what it was.

Regardless, the jacket i'm having made, like the pink one, isn't intended for a business setting, it's more for dates and going out at night. I did specify that i wanted it to be a bit flashy, although not gaudy, and in a classic cut. I think i've achieved the right balance with a 50/50 silk/wool fabric and a stand-out silk lining. I can't wait until the second fitting later this week.