Critique the fit of these waistcoats - please see pics

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

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zjpj
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Wed May 11, 2005 4:28 pm

My question is about the fit of these two vests. I love them but am worried they may be a bit too big. To the London Lounge experts: please see what you think.

To get them to fit the way I like, I have to pull the belt in the back as tightly as you see in the photographs.

Questions:

1. Are the vests too big, thus requiring me to tighten the back too much? Or, is this bunching proper and to be expected.

2. If so, by how much should the vest measurements be altered? How much do they need to be taken in? In the waist or the chest?

3. Is this an alteration that can be done? (The vests have are undarted.)


Grazie mille,
Z




pics



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zjpj
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Wed May 11, 2005 5:51 pm

I think they need to come in around 1 1/2 to 2 inches total. I have around a 36 inch chest, if that helps to provide some perspective.
dopey
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Wed May 11, 2005 6:48 pm

Both appear to be cut too baggy in the front. Probably in the back, too, but that is harder for me to tell from the photograph and will also depend on how baggy you like the back before tightening. One thing to make sure is correct is the armholes. Again, I can’t tell anything about them from the photographs but be sure you pay attention to them.
As for the preferred fit of the back, I can only tell you my experience. My prior tailor of nearly ten years cut them fairly close - the belt was hardly needed. When trying a new tailor, that was one of the elements I insisted he should do his way, whatever that may be, as I am not sure whether my old cut was a preference or just a habit. I want personal experience to be my guide as much as possible. My new tailor prefers a baggier back and made it that way. I have another high quality suit (Flusser, bespoke for someone else) with a similarly loose fitting back.

A baggier back is definitely more practical as you can enjoy your lunch more.

I cannot be definitive yet, but am near concluding that I nevertheless prefer a closely fitted vest. We will see whether or not I keep that opinion.
zjpj
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Wed May 11, 2005 6:55 pm

I definitely prefer a closer fitted vest and would like it so that the belt is only really an accoutrement, not a necessary and functional tighetning device.
Mark Seitelman
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Thu May 12, 2005 1:11 pm

I believe that the taking-in on a vest is relatively simple job (and therefore not too expensive).

Your dark grey vest has 5 buttons rather than the usual 6, therefore, if you take it in, you should make sure that it doesn't spread at the last button.

I cannot comment on the length.

Cheers.
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