I haven't been to Naples in years, and certainly not since I've become more interested in bespoke, but I too plan a trip there this 2005.
The food is supposed to be among the best in Italy and while Naples is apparently considered a bit industrial, the number of outstanding artisans in bespoke clothing there perhaps outnumbers that of any other Italian city.
I'd also welcome any advice on bespoke ateliers there.
I think staying in Capri while making day trips to Naples would be an ideal vacation.
Naples
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Guest
I found these interesting passages on the Net:
Ecco dove Napoli è 'nu babbà
(Here is where Naples is a Baba)
Taken from: CorrierEconomia of June the 11, 2001 By: Paola Valeria Jovinelli
Looking at Naples today, it seems that the most tangible heritage Bourbons bequeathed to Neapolitans is an aristocratic aesthetic taste, which make them look for excellence at any rate: food quality, refinement of the objects around them, the maniacal detail care for their clothes.
It is not a chance if the English male elegance, which once was 'up to date', have gone at first alongside and then, in most cases, have been surpassed by the Neapolitan school. But this is only the most evident example of the incredible local artisan skills.
So, to collect and preserve the whole practical experience, together with the history of the Neapolitan artisan culture, two characters -in consideration of the former capital of the Two Sicilies Reign- have worked together to rekindle and enliven all those old and tasty habits. First of all Maurizio Marinella, descendant of the homonymous prestigious family, with his small shop in piazza Vittoria 287, where the greatest men from different parts of the world buy their custom-made ties and other wonderful articles.
The other character is Giancarlo Maresca, chief of the "Ordine Cavalleresco dei Guardiani delle Nove Porte" (Order of knighthood of the Nine Doors Guardians) that he himself likes to define "a coterie for aesthetes".
Their contribute really shows the typical Neapolitan tradition style, that is relaxed and rigorous at the same time. (It could happen that you are able to get one of their custom-made shirt by the end of today!).
For what concerns jewels and watches in Naples, there are some different kind of situations.
"Caso", the antique jeweller' shop in piazza san Domenico Maggiore 16, since decades finds old coral jewels, stones and pearls of extraordinary taste.
"Knight", in piazza De'Martiri 52, jeweller since five generations, has got pieces of incredible value, especially for what concerns English silver such as Elizabethan glasses or Charles II's tankard.
Instead, the "Ventrellas", in via Carlo Poerio 11, design their jewels on their own. The "labirint" has been the subject of their last collection shown this year at the Museo Archeologico Nazionale.
"Trucchi" is a small jeweller' shop but very famous for its "good taste" and its "taste for the good".
Basing on the dictat according to which the handicraft, to be great, must consists of tradition, passion and exacting and competent consumers, the two -Mr Marinella and Mr Maresca- have drafted a list of excellent artisans who meet just these precise requirements.
The list starts from the small and modest Mario Talarico's shop-laboratory in vico Due Porte a Toledo 4. He is a skilled umbrella maker, a true master, heir of three generations of umbrella artisans: when he was young he slept in the case rack drawer, lying on the textiles.
Now that he is little more than seventy years old, he still works on his great-grandfather's case rack -become a "cult object"- with the help of his nephews Pietro and Luca Domizio. Its umbrellas are absolutely the best. The handles are made of the most selected and rare woods (broom, ash, malacca, birch, lemon, and so on), high quality materials, hand-made assembly and hand-sewn seams, horn finishes and lifelong guarantees.
As to the tailors, the first of the list is Gennaro Solito in via Toledo 256. According to the experts, he gives voice to a topical Neapolitan style, soft and sobre, "A superb and recognizable style, even without any immoderation -Mr Maresca says- and if his suites really speak, his coats order silence".
It is the same for Merolla and De L'Ero, artisan shirtmakers in via Calabritto 20.
Also inlaid majolicas and marbles have a history and a prestigious artisanship. You can find the wonderful remakes of the old Neapolitan "riggiole" (paving tiles) at Giallo di Napoli's, in via Carlo Poerio 114, while hand-made marble slabs at "Master" Russo's, in via Bisignano 51.
You cannot miss the "Barberia" in via Crispi 13, a barber's shop where you can breath the climate of the old barber' saloons and where everything is centred -as only in Naples happens- on well-being, relax, barbcut and hairstyle, of course.
At last, the pizza: its recipe -thanks to the local fancy- has changed a miserable dish into a masterpice, famous all over the world.
The winner of the list is "Di Matteo Pizzeria", in via Tribunali 94. A simple place, crowded and noisy, belonging to the "Spaccanapoli" tradition, the historical centre in Greek and Roman age (where you can find also the most famous crib artisans, such as Scuotto della Scarabattola brothers, just in via Scarabattola 50). Their pizza is sublime: "the real Neapolitan one, soft as President De Nicola liked, eating it rolled up in a paper..." recalls Gaetano Afeltra, a Neapolitan journalist.
At Di Matteo's you need to try the "wheel" that is the biggest pizza. Then, if you are still hungry, you can taste the traditional "fries": fried pizza, zeppole (a special kind of salted pancake), fried vegetable marrows, potato croquettes, fried egg plants.
And as dessert? Augustus'baba, of course, in via Toledo 147, the symbol of Neapolitan classic pastry. There the baba is considered "sommo" (the highest) just because traditionally it "grows up" thanks to the yeast. On Easter time they prepare and send the goodest pastiera all around the world, and on Christmas time, according to the old recipes, they prepare "paste reali", "susamielli", "sapienze", "mustacciuoli", "roccocò".
Now is the time of a good cofee at "Mexico"'s, a chain of bars: piazza Garibaldi 71, piazza Dante 86 and via Scarlatti 69, where blends are made of passion, care and of the best materials chosen for Passalacqua's roasting. Unforgettable is the frappé (coffee shake) at "Il Parteno", in via Partenope 1, a small "bed & breakfast" hotel which looks on to the most beautiful and charming seafront
Napoli tra il classico e l'«extravagante»
(Naples half classic, half extravagant)
Taken from: "Corriere del Mezzogiorno" of February the 27, 2002. By: Vanni Fondi.
We cannot say that he is not a special character in Naples. He wanders on a Silver Shadow Rolls Royce that belonged to Prince Vittorio Emanuele of Savoy. He is the chief of the "Ordine dei Guardiani delle nove porte" (that would mean the "Nine doors Guardians Order") and the president of the "Parlamento Internazionale Fumatori" (International Smokers Parliament) -we cannot forget the nights he organized in cigar's honour-. He is Giancarlo Maresca who, actually a lawyer, is a real "bon vivant" and has all the titles to sketch his personal "who's who" about the Neapolitan elegance. No sooner said than done, the lawyer has written an article -that will be issued on March- for a national review, which is up to its fifth number: "Monsieur". Undertitled: extravagant man's review.
The one made by Mr Maresca is a real trip within the "Neapolitan workshops of refinements".
It's a shame for the overworked title, "Loro di Napoli" (the ones from Naples) of Gargiuliana's memory. In his article the author skilfully lists the main chiefs of Neapolitan elegance, from the presidents of the most exclusive clubs, to the tailors, from the confectioners to the barber's shops, till the artists/artisans.
They are all, rigorously, men, since the review is addressed to them only. But who are these "elects"? It's easy! Let's start from the presidents of the main clubs. "Un posto al sole" belongs to Pippo Dalla Vecchia, the president of the "Reale Yacht Club Canottieri Savoia", who has been recently celebrated for the "Collare d'oro" (Golden Collar). He has also been the inspirer for the adventure of "Mascalzone Latino" (Latin Rascal), that is Vincenzo Onorato's boat, for the American Cup.
In the list there is also the President of the "Circolo del Remo e della Vela Italia" (Oar and Italian Sail Club): Mr Guido Imperiali, Marquis and lawyer, together with Francesco De Angelis, nowadays the most illustrious member. Now it's the turn of the famous tailors-stylists, from Maurizio Marinella, portrayed on the beach barefooted by Predi Marcarini, to Mariano Rubinacci, Vincenzo Attolini, Antonio Panico and Tony Rossi. There are also Gennaro Solito and the shirtmakers Francesco Merolla and Gabriella De L'Ero.
It couldn't be missing the umbrella maker Mario Talarico, famous for his hand-sewen silky and lifelong guaranteed umbrellas, the barber-philosopher Gianni Drillo and the "pastori" makers (shepherds for cribs) Lello, Salvatore and Emanuele Scuotto, and the masters of the Holy Art, Antonio and Rosario Lebro.
In Mr Maresca's opinion, the baba made by the confectioner Gennaro Lipardi (together with his helper Antonio Esposito) has to be followed by Passalacqua's cafe, drunk at the "Mexico"'s bars (or at "La Caffetteria"'s), but only after visiting some Neapolitan restaurants.
The best ones are -according to the great master of elegance- "De Matteo" in via Tribunali (where Paolo Mancini, Bill Clinton's pizza maker, works), "La Stanza del Gusto" in vicoletto Sant'Arpino, managed by the gastronome and cheese "refiner" Mario Avallone, and, in the end, "La Terrazza" that is the "Grand Hotel Excelsior" restaurant, on the seafront. This is famous not only for its cooker Davide Oidani but also for the director of the luxurious hotel, Vincenzo Pagano, an exemple of cosmopolitism perfectly joined together with familiarity.
Ecco dove Napoli è 'nu babbà
(Here is where Naples is a Baba)
Taken from: CorrierEconomia of June the 11, 2001 By: Paola Valeria Jovinelli
Looking at Naples today, it seems that the most tangible heritage Bourbons bequeathed to Neapolitans is an aristocratic aesthetic taste, which make them look for excellence at any rate: food quality, refinement of the objects around them, the maniacal detail care for their clothes.
It is not a chance if the English male elegance, which once was 'up to date', have gone at first alongside and then, in most cases, have been surpassed by the Neapolitan school. But this is only the most evident example of the incredible local artisan skills.
So, to collect and preserve the whole practical experience, together with the history of the Neapolitan artisan culture, two characters -in consideration of the former capital of the Two Sicilies Reign- have worked together to rekindle and enliven all those old and tasty habits. First of all Maurizio Marinella, descendant of the homonymous prestigious family, with his small shop in piazza Vittoria 287, where the greatest men from different parts of the world buy their custom-made ties and other wonderful articles.
The other character is Giancarlo Maresca, chief of the "Ordine Cavalleresco dei Guardiani delle Nove Porte" (Order of knighthood of the Nine Doors Guardians) that he himself likes to define "a coterie for aesthetes".
Their contribute really shows the typical Neapolitan tradition style, that is relaxed and rigorous at the same time. (It could happen that you are able to get one of their custom-made shirt by the end of today!).
For what concerns jewels and watches in Naples, there are some different kind of situations.
"Caso", the antique jeweller' shop in piazza san Domenico Maggiore 16, since decades finds old coral jewels, stones and pearls of extraordinary taste.
"Knight", in piazza De'Martiri 52, jeweller since five generations, has got pieces of incredible value, especially for what concerns English silver such as Elizabethan glasses or Charles II's tankard.
Instead, the "Ventrellas", in via Carlo Poerio 11, design their jewels on their own. The "labirint" has been the subject of their last collection shown this year at the Museo Archeologico Nazionale.
"Trucchi" is a small jeweller' shop but very famous for its "good taste" and its "taste for the good".
Basing on the dictat according to which the handicraft, to be great, must consists of tradition, passion and exacting and competent consumers, the two -Mr Marinella and Mr Maresca- have drafted a list of excellent artisans who meet just these precise requirements.
The list starts from the small and modest Mario Talarico's shop-laboratory in vico Due Porte a Toledo 4. He is a skilled umbrella maker, a true master, heir of three generations of umbrella artisans: when he was young he slept in the case rack drawer, lying on the textiles.
Now that he is little more than seventy years old, he still works on his great-grandfather's case rack -become a "cult object"- with the help of his nephews Pietro and Luca Domizio. Its umbrellas are absolutely the best. The handles are made of the most selected and rare woods (broom, ash, malacca, birch, lemon, and so on), high quality materials, hand-made assembly and hand-sewn seams, horn finishes and lifelong guarantees.
As to the tailors, the first of the list is Gennaro Solito in via Toledo 256. According to the experts, he gives voice to a topical Neapolitan style, soft and sobre, "A superb and recognizable style, even without any immoderation -Mr Maresca says- and if his suites really speak, his coats order silence".
It is the same for Merolla and De L'Ero, artisan shirtmakers in via Calabritto 20.
Also inlaid majolicas and marbles have a history and a prestigious artisanship. You can find the wonderful remakes of the old Neapolitan "riggiole" (paving tiles) at Giallo di Napoli's, in via Carlo Poerio 114, while hand-made marble slabs at "Master" Russo's, in via Bisignano 51.
You cannot miss the "Barberia" in via Crispi 13, a barber's shop where you can breath the climate of the old barber' saloons and where everything is centred -as only in Naples happens- on well-being, relax, barbcut and hairstyle, of course.
At last, the pizza: its recipe -thanks to the local fancy- has changed a miserable dish into a masterpice, famous all over the world.
The winner of the list is "Di Matteo Pizzeria", in via Tribunali 94. A simple place, crowded and noisy, belonging to the "Spaccanapoli" tradition, the historical centre in Greek and Roman age (where you can find also the most famous crib artisans, such as Scuotto della Scarabattola brothers, just in via Scarabattola 50). Their pizza is sublime: "the real Neapolitan one, soft as President De Nicola liked, eating it rolled up in a paper..." recalls Gaetano Afeltra, a Neapolitan journalist.
At Di Matteo's you need to try the "wheel" that is the biggest pizza. Then, if you are still hungry, you can taste the traditional "fries": fried pizza, zeppole (a special kind of salted pancake), fried vegetable marrows, potato croquettes, fried egg plants.
And as dessert? Augustus'baba, of course, in via Toledo 147, the symbol of Neapolitan classic pastry. There the baba is considered "sommo" (the highest) just because traditionally it "grows up" thanks to the yeast. On Easter time they prepare and send the goodest pastiera all around the world, and on Christmas time, according to the old recipes, they prepare "paste reali", "susamielli", "sapienze", "mustacciuoli", "roccocò".
Now is the time of a good cofee at "Mexico"'s, a chain of bars: piazza Garibaldi 71, piazza Dante 86 and via Scarlatti 69, where blends are made of passion, care and of the best materials chosen for Passalacqua's roasting. Unforgettable is the frappé (coffee shake) at "Il Parteno", in via Partenope 1, a small "bed & breakfast" hotel which looks on to the most beautiful and charming seafront
Napoli tra il classico e l'«extravagante»
(Naples half classic, half extravagant)
Taken from: "Corriere del Mezzogiorno" of February the 27, 2002. By: Vanni Fondi.
We cannot say that he is not a special character in Naples. He wanders on a Silver Shadow Rolls Royce that belonged to Prince Vittorio Emanuele of Savoy. He is the chief of the "Ordine dei Guardiani delle nove porte" (that would mean the "Nine doors Guardians Order") and the president of the "Parlamento Internazionale Fumatori" (International Smokers Parliament) -we cannot forget the nights he organized in cigar's honour-. He is Giancarlo Maresca who, actually a lawyer, is a real "bon vivant" and has all the titles to sketch his personal "who's who" about the Neapolitan elegance. No sooner said than done, the lawyer has written an article -that will be issued on March- for a national review, which is up to its fifth number: "Monsieur". Undertitled: extravagant man's review.
The one made by Mr Maresca is a real trip within the "Neapolitan workshops of refinements".
It's a shame for the overworked title, "Loro di Napoli" (the ones from Naples) of Gargiuliana's memory. In his article the author skilfully lists the main chiefs of Neapolitan elegance, from the presidents of the most exclusive clubs, to the tailors, from the confectioners to the barber's shops, till the artists/artisans.
They are all, rigorously, men, since the review is addressed to them only. But who are these "elects"? It's easy! Let's start from the presidents of the main clubs. "Un posto al sole" belongs to Pippo Dalla Vecchia, the president of the "Reale Yacht Club Canottieri Savoia", who has been recently celebrated for the "Collare d'oro" (Golden Collar). He has also been the inspirer for the adventure of "Mascalzone Latino" (Latin Rascal), that is Vincenzo Onorato's boat, for the American Cup.
In the list there is also the President of the "Circolo del Remo e della Vela Italia" (Oar and Italian Sail Club): Mr Guido Imperiali, Marquis and lawyer, together with Francesco De Angelis, nowadays the most illustrious member. Now it's the turn of the famous tailors-stylists, from Maurizio Marinella, portrayed on the beach barefooted by Predi Marcarini, to Mariano Rubinacci, Vincenzo Attolini, Antonio Panico and Tony Rossi. There are also Gennaro Solito and the shirtmakers Francesco Merolla and Gabriella De L'Ero.
It couldn't be missing the umbrella maker Mario Talarico, famous for his hand-sewen silky and lifelong guaranteed umbrellas, the barber-philosopher Gianni Drillo and the "pastori" makers (shepherds for cribs) Lello, Salvatore and Emanuele Scuotto, and the masters of the Holy Art, Antonio and Rosario Lebro.
In Mr Maresca's opinion, the baba made by the confectioner Gennaro Lipardi (together with his helper Antonio Esposito) has to be followed by Passalacqua's cafe, drunk at the "Mexico"'s bars (or at "La Caffetteria"'s), but only after visiting some Neapolitan restaurants.
The best ones are -according to the great master of elegance- "De Matteo" in via Tribunali (where Paolo Mancini, Bill Clinton's pizza maker, works), "La Stanza del Gusto" in vicoletto Sant'Arpino, managed by the gastronome and cheese "refiner" Mario Avallone, and, in the end, "La Terrazza" that is the "Grand Hotel Excelsior" restaurant, on the seafront. This is famous not only for its cooker Davide Oidani but also for the director of the luxurious hotel, Vincenzo Pagano, an exemple of cosmopolitism perfectly joined together with familiarity.
These are fascinating reviews, David, even if too, too brief. I'd enjoy seeing a critique of each by our chief.
But, would you be so kind as to post links to the original articles? The translations (computer-generated, I assume) can't be much less difficult to read than the Italian!
But, would you be so kind as to post links to the original articles? The translations (computer-generated, I assume) can't be much less difficult to read than the Italian!
Thanks, David; the Italian text (which, indeed, does read clearer) is at http://www.mariotalarico.com/italiano/dicono.asp.
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le.gentleman
- Posts: 272
- Joined: Sat Jun 04, 2005 4:30 pm
- Location: St. Paul, MN
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a list of recommendations I put together from several sources... I have never been in naples but I do intend to go there next year...
Marinella is in Piazza Vittoria
Around the corner is the Borrelli flagship in Via Filangieri
Finally, in Via dei Mille, you will find
Rubinacci
Monetti
Angelo Marino
All 3 do the neapolitan suit perfectly
Al five stores are within a 5 minute walk radius, so you should be able to visit them all without getting robbed, I hope.
Naples
shirtmakers:
Anna Matuozzo (viale Gramsci, 26)
Merolla e de l'Ero (via Calabritto, 20)
tailors:
Attolini (custom, via Vetriera, 12)
Gianni Marigliano (via Filangieri, 11)
Rubinacci (custom, via Filangieri, 26)
Gennaro Solito (via Toledo, 256
This months Saveur food magazine mentions a bakery that is known for there Baba cakes ( different from baba au rhum pastries) It sounds amazing/
shirtmakers:
Anna Matuozzo (viale Gramsci, 26)
Merolla e de l'Ero (via Calabritto, 20)
tailors:
Attolini (custom, via Vetriera, 12)
Gianni Marigliano (via Filangieri, 11)
Rubinacci (custom, via Filangieri, 26)
Gennaro Solito (via Toledo, 256)
ties:
E. Marinella (Riviera di Chiaia, 287)
umbrellas:
Mario Talarico (Vico Due Porte a Toledo, 4)
Marinella is in Piazza Vittoria
Around the corner is the Borrelli flagship in Via Filangieri
Finally, in Via dei Mille, you will find
Rubinacci
Monetti
Angelo Marino
All 3 do the neapolitan suit perfectly
Al five stores are within a 5 minute walk radius, so you should be able to visit them all without getting robbed, I hope.
Naples
shirtmakers:
Anna Matuozzo (viale Gramsci, 26)
Merolla e de l'Ero (via Calabritto, 20)
tailors:
Attolini (custom, via Vetriera, 12)
Gianni Marigliano (via Filangieri, 11)
Rubinacci (custom, via Filangieri, 26)
Gennaro Solito (via Toledo, 256
This months Saveur food magazine mentions a bakery that is known for there Baba cakes ( different from baba au rhum pastries) It sounds amazing/
shirtmakers:
Anna Matuozzo (viale Gramsci, 26)
Merolla e de l'Ero (via Calabritto, 20)
tailors:
Attolini (custom, via Vetriera, 12)
Gianni Marigliano (via Filangieri, 11)
Rubinacci (custom, via Filangieri, 26)
Gennaro Solito (via Toledo, 256)
ties:
E. Marinella (Riviera di Chiaia, 287)
umbrellas:
Mario Talarico (Vico Due Porte a Toledo, 4)
shoemakers:
Paolo Scafora (address?) - very bespoke, very handmade.
Can someone please provide address, telephone (I wish to place an order from stock but can't contact
). Thanks.
Paolo Scafora (address?) - very bespoke, very handmade.
Can someone please provide address, telephone (I wish to place an order from stock but can't contact
). Thanks.
Last edited by bluscuro on Fri Mar 09, 2007 12:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.
My apologies Mr.JRM . I supplied you with the web address not realising that his contact details are illegible for some reason.
Palazzo Calabritto
30 Piazza dei Martiri
Napoli
tel 0181 304808
Palazzo Calabritto
30 Piazza dei Martiri
Napoli
tel 0181 304808
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