One type of fabric that has become relatively popular for summer is the wool/silk/linen mix (in various proportions, at times with no silk). Although commonly associated with Italian makers like Caccioppoli or Loro Piana, there are versions from British merchants like Harrisons or Huddersfield Fine Worsteds.
In the right combination, they seem interesting. The wool and linen help the fabric drape and reduce wrinkling. The linen gives it character and strength.
I haven't had such a jacket, the closet I got is a suit made with an old Harrison's Mersolair fabric (no longer made) that blends linen and mohair.
Has the Lounge ever produced linen mix fabrics? What do you all think?
Wool/Silk/Linen fabrics
Dear Nem,
about ten years ago, I had a summer suit and some trousers made with a linen/merino mix. As you describe it, I expected less wrinkling than with pure linen. My "real life experience" is not so good. Especially the suit looked very good and got me a lot of compliments, but wearing it showed me its limitations very quickly.
The weave is usually very dense, and the fibre doesn't breathe like pure wool or pure linen. As a consequence, it wears a lot more warm. And in the long run, it is not very robust either.
In other words: by combining the fibres, you loose the best properties of both linen and wool. I stick to Brisa, Piuma and pure linen since.
Cheers, David
about ten years ago, I had a summer suit and some trousers made with a linen/merino mix. As you describe it, I expected less wrinkling than with pure linen. My "real life experience" is not so good. Especially the suit looked very good and got me a lot of compliments, but wearing it showed me its limitations very quickly.
The weave is usually very dense, and the fibre doesn't breathe like pure wool or pure linen. As a consequence, it wears a lot more warm. And in the long run, it is not very robust either.
In other words: by combining the fibres, you loose the best properties of both linen and wool. I stick to Brisa, Piuma and pure linen since.
Cheers, David
Thanks for sharing your experience, David.
There are many variations of these blends and I guess the devil is in the detail. They might all be like the one you've described. My linen/mohair blend made the linen shinier (which I like) but it didn't do much against wrinkling.
The interesting thing about these bunches is that they tend to have more checks than plain linens, which makes for a more interesting jacket.
There are many variations of these blends and I guess the devil is in the detail. They might all be like the one you've described. My linen/mohair blend made the linen shinier (which I like) but it didn't do much against wrinkling.
The interesting thing about these bunches is that they tend to have more checks than plain linens, which makes for a more interesting jacket.
This is a actually very useful thread. I suspected this sort of mix might have... mixed results but it's good to hear from actual experience.
If you ever asked yourself why we have not made this kind of mix of fabrics in the LL Cloth Club, you now have your answer . 
Back in the day we made some lovely patterns in pure vintage quality linens that are sadly no longer available.
I would not buy a fabric from Cacciopoli if you paid me.
I saw their new books just recently and along with my tailor we looked at it in utter disbelief . Stay away from books in general but especially those books.
You don't gain anything by mixing linen, unless you have a very inferior quality of linen. Good linen stands on its own. If I knew where you could get good linen today, we would be making it in the LL again. That ship sailed a decade ago.
Cheers
I would not buy a fabric from Cacciopoli if you paid me.
I saw their new books just recently and along with my tailor we looked at it in utter disbelief . Stay away from books in general but especially those books. You don't gain anything by mixing linen, unless you have a very inferior quality of linen. Good linen stands on its own. If I knew where you could get good linen today, we would be making it in the LL again. That ship sailed a decade ago.
Cheers
Thanks for the tip, Michael. I like Cacciopoli's patterns, they managed to have quite a few checks and windowpanes in subdued, tasteful colours. I do not know their quality, so it's good to get your feedback.
My linen jackets and suits are all plain so I'm in the market for something of this sort.
Is there no decent (I hesitate to say "good enough") linen that could be made by LL these days? Or are you saying that there will never be more LL linen because the best quality available is just not good enough?
My linen jackets and suits are all plain so I'm in the market for something of this sort.
Is there no decent (I hesitate to say "good enough") linen that could be made by LL these days? Or are you saying that there will never be more LL linen because the best quality available is just not good enough?
The best available is not good enough for me. So it's not good enough for LL members.
Case in point: Just over a week ago I picked up two pair of trousers made from LL linen. The tailor was stupefied. "This is Time Machine linen, where did you get it? Nothing like this is available anywhere, anymore." His words, not mine. But they are accurate.
About a decade ago I was able to get the very last lots of old time linen on 90 cms that no one wanted....except me.
Cheers
Case in point: Just over a week ago I picked up two pair of trousers made from LL linen. The tailor was stupefied. "This is Time Machine linen, where did you get it? Nothing like this is available anywhere, anymore." His words, not mine. But they are accurate.
About a decade ago I was able to get the very last lots of old time linen on 90 cms that no one wanted....except me.
Cheers
A real shame that it's no longer possible to get such linen. One can have wool summer jackets but there's no fabric quite like linen.
What has changed, the raw material or the way it's woven?
What has changed, the raw material or the way it's woven?
If an LL Linen isn't possible, what is second best?
Most Irish linens seem to be plain with the exception perhaps of some made by Baird Mcnutt. The other patterned linen option that comes to mind is Solbiati. I have an overshirt from their cloth and it's softer, heavier and wrinkles less than the average Italian linen.
Most Irish linens seem to be plain with the exception perhaps of some made by Baird Mcnutt. The other patterned linen option that comes to mind is Solbiati. I have an overshirt from their cloth and it's softer, heavier and wrinkles less than the average Italian linen.
Maison Hellard has a nice set of alternatives to the Italian choices.
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