A tweed shooting jacket

[jonathans]

Dear gentlemen:

I have, for a long time, been contemplating a tweed shooting jacket. My idea was as follows:

-a normal 3/2 jacket
-Belows pockets
-half belt back, perhaps an action back single pleat
-a normal barchetta breast pocket
-suede patch on the right shoulder.

While I do find myself in the country often enough to wear it, I rarely find myself needing to actually go shooting or chopping wood. I’d wear it for the aesthetic, with cowboy boots, jeans a western buckle, possibly a denim shirt & possibly a hat too.

The most amount of shooting id do (lord willing) is skeet shooting and gun range shooting.

So here is my question: do I get enough fabric to do an entire shooting suit (waistcoat, trousers, plus twos, etc)? Or is just a jacket enough? I lean toward the jacket just being enough.

I have a length of fabric in mind but, when consulting my Milanese tailor, I might not have enough fabric for an action back (only a half belt back). I can use that length (an old 700g brora) & have it made into an ordinary sports jacket with a florentine tailor (I’d avoid breaking up the pattern). But I think the especially heavy weight would look great as a shooting jacket, even without an action back.

Best,
Jonathan

[jonathans]

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cj94TOfrsMS ... BiNWFlZA==


Not all that dissimilar from this jacket made by a Japanese tailor who, I believe, was trained at huntsman or an old jacket mr. Shattuck nicely modeled, which I cannot find a link to.

[jonathans]

I think just the jacket would be adequate, the action-back is a good idea. A good sturdy tweed will handle many hundreds of hours of heavy shooting before wear on the shoulder becomes an issue, I would leave the leather patch off and be content with a real "sports jacket" that you can wear casually too.

Thanks Simon, sounds like I’m on the right track thinking a shooting suit would be over the top.

And when I’m in the countryside, I can wear it with flannels, and boots or even jeans with cowboy / western boots (I have a pair on order from Lee Miller with Texas traditions). I just need to find a great western hat maker, and to inherit a ranch with oil under it in Texas!

[couch]

I agree with Simon. Two Italian tailors, but you don't say where your skeet and range shooting would occur, or what sort of company you'd be keeping. I grew up in central Texas around deer and dove hunters and with uncles who hunted foxes on foot with packs of hounds. All the skeet and range shooting I've observed was done in jackets (cool weather) or shooting vests and jeans or sturdy trousers. These days the vests are often of technical cloth and with product logos, for those who fancy their abilities. A jacket such as you describe (sans shoulder patch) and well-worn jeans and boots would be versatile enough for most any circumstances. Enough drape and high armholes should allow you to swing a gun freely if you don't have enough cloth for the action back (test the motion at your fittings). A fully matched English-style shooting suit, unless you're actually on a grouse moor or equivalent, or a gun patch on a jacket worn off the range with western attire, risks looking like one is trying a bit hard, something a (country) gentleman or a cowboy would not want thought of him. But there's a deep well of respect for a well-cut tweed jacket, that grows as it earns the hundreds of hours Simon cites. For use independent of the western elements of the ensemble, I'd want to hear the views of our member Mr. Logsdail, who both shoots and makes beautiful shooting clothes.

[jonathans]

I agree with Simon. Two Italian tailors, but you don't say where your skeet and range shooting would occur, or what sort of company you'd be keeping. I grew up in central Texas around deer and dove hunters and with uncles who hunted foxes on foot with packs of hounds. All the skeet and range shooting I've observed was done in jackets (cool weather) or shooting vests and jeans or sturdy trousers. These days the vests are often of technical cloth and with product logos, for those who fancy their abilities. A jacket such as you describe (sans shoulder patch) and well-worn jeans and boots would be versatile enough for most any circumstances. Enough drape and high armholes should allow you to swing a gun freely if you don't have enough cloth for the action back (test the motion at your fittings). A fully matched English-style shooting suit, unless you're actually on a grouse moor or equivalent, or a gun patch on a jacket worn off the range with western attire, risks looking like one is trying a bit hard, something a (country) gentleman or a cowboy would not want thought of him. But there's a deep well of respect for a well-cut tweed jacket, that grows as it earns the hundreds of hours Simon cites. For use independent of the western elements of the ensemble, I'd want to hear the views of our member Mr. Logsdail, who both shoots and makes beautiful shooting clothes.

I figured the suit was less natural (and less what I was looking for). A shooting jacket, sans suede patch will be all it is.

I’d go shooting anywhere throughout the South (Georgia, North Carolina, South Carolina) into the mid Atlantic areas of Virginia, and into texas. I’ve been invited to country retreats with executives in states like West Virginia, as well. I also visit California, and would certainly be open to wearing a jacket like this to Napa wine country on a colder day (unfortunately, no shooting up there). But, to your point, a vest is more standard these days and a jacket, while by no means improper, is not necessary.

I’d also be curious what mr. Logadail thinks.

I think an action back would be nice, but I’m not sure I’ll have room, perhaps 2 smaller pleats (one on each side) for added range of movement will do the trick. I acquired 2 meters of an old London lounge 646 brora tweed, which was the second ever LL cloth club fabric (the other option was raf agnelli tweed or a future LL tweed - probably baboo). But only have 2 meters of it. My tailor is currently cutting me a patterned jacket with 1.8 meters of an old George Harrison’s cashmere that he had in stock, and says 2 meters will be just enough.

I’m thinking it’ll be 2 bellows pockets instead of patch pockets, and a half belt it be back. Perhaps best described as a gentleman’s shooting jacket. My tailor is Milanese, so it wouldn’t quite be an Englishman’s shooting jacket, but I have large shoulders as is, so don’t need extra padding.

Thanks for the advice!
Jonathan

[jonathans]

I can't help you with the ranch and oil wells, but I can suggest a custom hatmaker in Montana who will deliver the goods. https://www.mackeycustomhats.com/the-hats

Thanks Simon, sounds like I’m on the right track thinking a shooting suit would be over the top.

And when I’m in the countryside, I can wear it with flannels, and boots or even jeans with cowboy / western boots (I have a pair on order from Lee Miller with Texas traditions). I just need to find a great western hat maker, and to inherit a ranch with oil under it in Texas!

I’ll keep this in mind. I always wanted an optimo hat, but, I remember when the prices were around 4-500. Now they’re pushing 1200+. Thars just a lot of money for a hat imo. So I have been looking for a new hat maker. Thanks!

If you have any leads on the oil wells, let me know!

[andy57]

Did somebody say "shooting jacket"?

IMG_4211 by Andrew Poupart, on Flickr

IMG_4171 by Andrew Poupart, on Flickr

4C01FCE4-6C2A-4CDB-9F75-66935C27445E by Andrew Poupart, on Flickr

1ADA4998-E5B8-4C28-9A4B-11B78D81FCBC by Andrew Poupart, on Flickr

I've had this jacket quite a few years now. Made from a test length of a LL tweed that never got made up in subscription. As far as I know, there is only one other jacket made from this tweed. It was cut by Edwin DeBoise of Steed. The bellows pockets are from a very old template that was in Edwin's family. Inverted rear pleat, half belt, no suede patch.

I’ll keep this in mind. I always wanted an optimo hat, but, I remember when the prices were around 4-500. Now they’re pushing 1200+. Thars just a lot of money for a hat imo. So I have been looking for a new hat maker. Thanks!

You get what you pay for. Optimo is the best I've ever found, hands down.

[jonathans]

Did somebody say "shooting jacket"?

IMG_4211 by Andrew Poupart, on Flickr

IMG_4171 by Andrew Poupart, on Flickr

4C01FCE4-6C2A-4CDB-9F75-66935C27445E by Andrew Poupart, on Flickr

1ADA4998-E5B8-4C28-9A4B-11B78D81FCBC by Andrew Poupart, on Flickr

I've had this jacket quite a few years now. Made from a test length of a LL tweed that never got made up in subscription. As far as I know, there is only one other jacket made from this tweed. It was cut by Edwin DeBoise of Steed. The bellows pockets are from a very old template that was in Edwin's family. Inverted rear pleat, half belt, no suede patch.

I’ll keep this in mind. I always wanted an optimo hat, but, I remember when the prices were around 4-500. Now they’re pushing 1200+. Thars just a lot of money for a hat imo. So I have been looking for a new hat maker. Thanks!

You get what you pay for. Optimo is the best I've ever found, hands down.

Awesome jacket Andy, how versatile do you find it? I think it could be quite an elevated casual jacket, especially in the countryside, where a suit might be too formal. As I understand it, you’re in Palo Alto, so I’m guessing you don’t get to do much shooting with it.

How did you decide to use steed for that jacket vs. Hitchcock or divij?

Is that the same jacket in all photos? Two of the photos, it looks more forest green than the other 2 where it looks olive.

How do I upload a photo on here? I was trying to upload a photo of the fabric, but can’t seem to.

[Leonard Logsdail]

I love wearing and making tweed clothing. Frankly, the heavy fabric hides any flaws!!!!!

I think it would be a waste of money to make a full shooting suit that never gets worn. Unless you can afford it and want it in your wardrobe. In that case, go for it. If not? I'd settle for the jacket

[andy57]

Awesome jacket Andy, how versatile do you find it? I think it could be quite an elevated casual jacket, especially in the countryside, where a suit might be too formal. As I understand it, you’re in Palo Alto, so I’m guessing you don’t get to do much shooting with it.

How did you decide to use steed for that jacket vs. Hitchcock or divij?

Is that the same jacket in all photos? Two of the photos, it looks more forest green than the other 2 where it looks olive.

How do I upload a photo on here? I was trying to upload a photo of the fabric, but can’t seem to.

I've never been shooting in this jacket. I wear a vest for that! It's the same jacket in all photos—different cameras, different light, I guess. I used Steed because, at the time, Steed was my go-to tailor for tweed stuff. I still think it is what they do best.

To add a photo on this forum, first upload the photo to a photo sharing site. I use Flickr. Then, select the "sharing" control, like this:
Screenshot 2023-07-07 at 10.37.29 AM by Andrew Poupart, on Flickr

Then, select "BBCode" and copy the highlighted text at the size of image you want, like this:
Screenshot 2023-07-07 at 10.40.23 AM by Andrew Poupart, on Flickr

And paste that text into the box here on the forum that you are typing your post in. That's it.

[jonathans]

I love wearing and making tweed clothing. Frankly, the heavy fabric hides any flaws!!!!!

I think it would be a waste of money to make a full shooting suit that never gets worn. Unless you can afford it and want it in your wardrobe. In that case, go for it. If not? I'd settle for the jacket

Well then a heavy tweed sounds like a match made in heaven for me!! Haha.

Thanks for your feedback, yes. I think just a jacket is fine. I don’t really have a desire for an entire shooting suit. A jacket will be just fine & it’s all I need / want! I was just asking for other’s experience - perhaps they only did a jacket and regretted not doing an entire suit.

Andy, I like your jacket. I’m not ready for an optimo hat yet. I can’t justify the price tag - that’s money taken away from shoes or jackets! But maybe when I get a wardrobe as vast as yours, I’ll splurge and treat myself to a hat! How much more expensive can they get when they’re already 1200+

[andy57]

How much more expensive can they get when they’re already 1200+

I guess you might be shocked. But you get what you pay for, as I've said. It is the felt, the craft, the attention to detail, and more. If you ever get the chance to visit the Optimo factory, on Chicago's South Side, take it. It's not so much a factory as a temple of hat-making. There is no other place like it in the world.