Stretch & pattern

[Melcombe]

I have a technical question :

I do like mohair - on its own or blended. I am contemplating a (workwear, sadly) suit in 2-ply wool & mohair mix and I was looking at a larger length of it yesterday and suspect that it will be eminently suitable for the task : it is tightly woven and substantial. What I noticed by comparison with a length of all wool twill of about the same weight is how solid it is - it seems to lack the slight stretch of the all-wool.

What I am curious to know is what adjustments to a customer's standard pattern would a tailor generally make to accommodate the 'non-stretchiness' of such fabric? Im presuming there are some?

I have an earlier pair of trousers in the same cloth with a single pleat and so far as I can compare with other trousers of the same design, there seems to be a marginally greater allowance across the seat, perhaps (but very slight). What sort of adjustment would a jacket require to avoid any pulling where all wool might simply stretch and recover? At the same time, comparing tweed jackets of differing densities (but near identical 2B configuration), the lighter or rather more porous tweeds I have seem actually to be cut slightly fuller than the denser ones - I have a thornproof herringbone that is very fitted by comparison to a light Harris tweed.

This may be accidental as the (modest) collection represents nearly 2 decades of personal expansion & contraction - so just my perception.

[Concordia]

Move around in the fitting room, and complain until it is as comfortable as you need. Kneel down to tie shoes, etc.