Trenchcoat. Why not?

[Melcombe]

I have just acquired a lightly pre-enjoyed (I know, I know..) trench coat, by Burberry, in a configuration that I've not come across before. The coat has many of the typical features such as double thickness across the shoulders, belt and wrist straps, but it's single breasted with hidden buttons.

The purpose behind this slightly pedestrian and admittedly cheapskate acquisition is twofold. (1) Because it was cheap I do not fear losing it - and having lost a favourite bespoke overcoat in a cloakroom I know what agony that can be. (2) It is – maybe next to a boiler suit – possibly the most effective prophylactic against the unavoidable and rather shocking dirt of public transport in the UK.

It did however get me thinking that the trench coat has rather fallen out of favour, and I'm slightly struggling to understand why this might be. I do remember they seemed to be somewhat more popular back in the 1970s (but then again so were safari suits, so that's no test of merit) and the Burberry – and latterly, Aquascutum – brands have taken off in a very peculiar commercial direction.

I think the origins of the trench coat are probably impeccable from a design point of view. I understand that they were originally intended, as the name suggests, to provide some kind of weather protection for the Poor Bloody Infantry manning the trenches in the Great War, and no doubt due their military origins often marked out a military veteran.



I can see that they are maybe slightly fussy for an entirely practical raincoat – but nevertheless I think they still demonstrate admirable practicality over mere decoration. And I can't imagine one would ever need to commission a bespoke one when the OTR versions are very adequate.

Is there any particular reason why they seem to have have fallen out of favour?

[davidhuh]

Is there any particular reason why they seem to have have fallen out of favour?

Dear Melcombe,

I don't think that there is a particular reason, other than "fashion trends". A good DB trench coat is a classic. I lost mine a few years ago, miss it and will replace it as soon as I find a decent model. Burberry unfortunately lost track which didn't help its case. But it seems they have just launched a "heritage" model which is made in England again. I will give it a close look

Cheers, David

[rodes]

They are not out of favor with me. I have had mine as long as I can remember. That's me in the upper left.

[uppercase]

[rodes]

There are some fine reasons to own the trench coat. It is not expensive. It is very practical and just the right weight for perhaps 3 to 4 months of the year in the mid-Atlantic where I'm from. Readily available, we don't even have to consider bespoke. The color is always right for business or casual. The coat will last forever. You never have to worry about making an inappropriate statement no matter your age. And if all this were not enough, the coat is just plain dashing. I have never known anyone to not look good in one. Of course, this goes double for Marlene Dietrich.

[uppercase]

I agree.

A Burberry cotton trench coat circa 1975 has been a long and trusted friend.
I have worn it everywhere on every occasion.
Always fantastic.

The European country in which I lived during those times - well, the trench was a staple there, just perfect.

With an inner wool lining and a scarf, it was a 4 season coat.

There was no sense of irony or self consciousness there in Europe as to the snooper dooper detective association which the US seems to have. I was only taught to be self conscious in it when I moved to the US for a period.

The dumbed down, populist, conforming, US clothes culture really does seem to kill many classics. And decent classical clothing in general. ( perhaps 1950s preppy/Ivy League survives in some few enclaves.... not sure about that). It is probably up to Europe and sectors of Asia to save and revive classical clothing ....I don’t know, but it just seems to me that Europe and parts of Asia are more accepting - indeed appreciative - of classical ideas about elegance, what today would be considered outliers.... oh well, just a generalization.

I still have the trench. It’s a little bit worn and frayed. A few rips here and there. I used to send it to a specialized cleaner which would take care of the leather bits on the buckle and the brass, and I guess spray it for water resistance. And stitch it together where they could.

Surely, an old friend hanging still in hanging the closet waiting for a call to action.

[uppercase]

Rodes, is that you in the photo??

[arch]

That's me in the upper left.

Rather poor taste, considering, but I am sure no harm was intended.

[Mark Seitelman]

* * *

Is there any particular reason why they seem to have have fallen out of favour?

With the exception of the purists and traditionalists, the traditional trench is out of favor because:

1. The genuine article is expensive, from $1,000 to $1,500+. A traditional trench coat involves many more costly manufacturing operations than a regular coat, such the detailing, the cape back, the epaulets, the throat latch, cuff straps, the belt, the leather covered buckles, and grenade rings on the belt. Also, the "ingredients" are expensive, such as a quality wool liner, a heavy, quality shell fabric, and leather for the belt trims. Many manufacturers engage in shortcuts by eliminating numerous details, such as Macintosh.

2. Today's design ethos is plain and unadorned clothing. The traditional trench coat has too much frou frou for most young men.

[uppercase]

I agree Mark, although I think that today’s dudes would pay up for an item if it is fashion; if Prada, Gucci, Tom Ford put trench coats on their runway, accompanied by an advertorial by a fashion publication, trenchs would fly off the rack.
All it needs is a marketing boost to resurrect: and a celebrity. How about Gigi Haddad?

And $1,500 ain’t what it used to be. And is not a barrier to the dedicated followers of fashion.

But a trench is not fashion. It is heritage. And it is now fuddy duddy. It is in the realm of the ascot.

To me, it is classic, it is brilliant and something I wore daily for many years. I didn’t know then of its military origins, nor cinematic associations, nor this or that. Those were innocent days. In those old days, a Burberry trench was just a coat that many people regularly wore. Just like a Loden. So much self conscious angst inhabiting people’s minds today.

I dropped into Burberry and Aquascutum a while back ( actually probably a long while back) and the trenchs indeed are now expensive and poorly made made, and basically the cloth is not what it used. I’ll stick with my old one until it falls apart completely. Like me.

Hope you are well, Mark!!

[aston]

I stopped wearing my trench when the girl who became my wife said I looked like Inspector Cluseau.

[Manself]

This thread reminds me that I've seen some promising images of a Japanese brand called Coherence, which seems to make trench coats to order in the generous and even dramatic cuts that likely appeal to us Loungers. Has anyone here tried a Coherence coat?

[Mark Seitelman]

I have just acquired a lightly pre-enjoyed (I know, I know..) trench coat, by Burberry, in a configuration that I've not come across before. The coat has many of the typical features such as double thickness across the shoulders, belt and wrist straps, but it's single breasted with hidden buttons.

The purpose behind this slightly pedestrian and admittedly cheapskate acquisition is twofold. (1) Because it was cheap I do not fear losing it - and having lost a favourite bespoke overcoat in a cloakroom I know what agony that can be. (2) It is – maybe next to a boiler suit – possibly the most effective prophylactic against the unavoidable and rather shocking dirt of public transport in the UK.

* * *

Don't apologize for getting a gently used Burberry on consignment. Sometimes you are getting a better quality garment than produced now.

Some maintain that the older Burberry coats are superior to the present production. See https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/burberry-trench-coat/ and https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/trench-coat-guide/

The current Burberry trench coat goes for $1,895. My olive green tench coat was purchased in 1995. I cannot recall the price, but I am guessing that is was about $300. I alternate it with other raincoats, but I must say that it is a quality garment.

[uppercase]

Yes. The older, the better. These trench coats really age well. And their quality of cloth and make is vastly better than what is available today.

$300?? I think you overpaid. Mine was closer to $200.

In my view, iconic clothing. Perfect for traveling as well, fold them up and throw them in the overhead bin. Pull them out, wrinkles and all, and off you go. Beautiful. 3/4 season.

Like so many classic items, today a trench is maligned. And grossly over priced as well.
Indeed, inspector clouseau. !!

Another victim of stereotypes. And men wearing them, well, victims of crushing conformism.
Ban individualism.
And while the cultural police are at it, ban sex and ban men.
Wouldn’t the world be better off, after all??

[Melcombe]

I stopped wearing my trench when the girl who became my wife said I looked like Inspector Cluseau.

Not now Kato !

Don't apologize for getting a gently used Burberry on consignment. Sometimes you are getting a better quality garment than produced now.

Some maintain that the older Burberry coats are superior to the present production. See https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/burberry-trench-coat/ and https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/trench-coat-guide/

The current Burberry trench coat goes for $1,895. My olive green tench coat was purchased in 1995. I cannot recall the price, but I am guessing that is was about $300. I alternate it with other raincoats, but I must say that it is a quality garment.

Thank you for that reassurance.

On the strength of such encouragement, I have acquired myself a second coat for the princely sum of £50. This time it is the Full English Breakfast : double breasted, tabs and belts, storm flaps a-plenty - and very usefully the original zip-out Burberry wool liner - all showing almost no signs of wear.

Im particularly impressed by the brass D-ring grenade holders on the belt. I really had found that until now, storing grenades in my pockets was spoiling the line of my suits.

Problem now is whether to hang onto the original purchase to wear on the occasion of really horrid train / tube journeys, or donate to my daughter's vintage clothes emporium. I suspect the latter.