Our Raglan Paletot

[Gianfrancesco]

Hi to all of you!

Although this is not being made with a LL fabric, I thought it was a very interesting fabric to show.
Well, this is our housecut SB Raglan, still in the works, with tre quartini sleeve, patch pockets with flaps, cuffs, piegone vent with buttons and a vertical inside pockets for gloves. We also do a DB version with a martingala buttoned belt.





Gianfrancesco

[Concordia]

Very nice!

Is the double-breasted also with raglan sleeves?

[hectorm]

Well, this is our housecut SB Raglan, ...We also do a DB version

The housecut SB is already very creative, but DB raglans for men traditionally have been only the territory of trench coats. They are a bit more common in shorter versions for women and well groomed children. What was your inspiration or rationale (if there is one) behind this fashionable crossover, Gianfrancesco? Is it a Milanese thing?

[Gianfrancesco]

hmm, sorry but I do not understand why "it is already very creative". As far as I know there are three way of doing a collar on a Raglan overcoat and more than this I don't see anything very different.
As for the DB, my grandfather had made a raglan DB overcoat with three quarters sleeves during the 30s and from that the inspiration, the idea to repropose one. Today is very rare to see a raglan, especially with the three quarters sleeve as we do.
Also, why not? I do not like what is standardized but I like what is unique and I do it if it does make sense.

[hectorm]

sorry but I do not understand why "it is already very creative".

I was not referring to sleeve or collar construction, of which I know almost nothing.
By creative I meant praising your house style because it was very out of the ordinary for a SB raglan.
Most raglan OCs have very slanted or almost vertical front besom pockets, and very few (probably vintage from the 60s) patch pockets with flaps. Also most examples you see now are worn with a belt and they do not have cuffs on their sleeves (usually they just have a buttoned tab). And their back vents are plain and open, not pleats with buttons.

[alden]

This model Raglan SB was very common in the 1930s, as this illustration from '36 shows:



Beautiful work Gianfrancesco. I am really keen to see a DB version.

Cheers

Michael

[chestercopperpot]

As am I.

Big fan of dembech

[Screaminmarlon]

Complimenti Gianfrancesco,
Any details about the cloth (weight, composition...)?
Saluti
M.

[Gianfrancesco]

Thank you a lot to all of you. The raglan actually can be made in very various designs and I like this, but always staying classical, I don't want to do strange or fashion things...fashion is just for singers.

Michael thank you for your comment and I apprecciate your picture a lot. Also I remember we talked about the DB raglan paletot this past summer and I already designed it but I have to find the time to cut it and make it!

Here there are some more pictures about the raglan that it's almost finished:






It will be finished with horn buttons and later when I will iron it I will show you the very final result
The cloth is a very old cloth from Carlo Barbera around 500/600 grams a sort of houndstooth.
I think this can be an idea to repropose for raglans and if Michael needs a sample I will be glad to send it to him.

Gianfrancesco

[chestercopperpot]

any photos of the back?

i'd love to see it.

thanks a lot