The "perfect" semi-formal shirt?

[Luca]

In this context, I am using the term semi-formal in the archaic sense of black-tie (night) or stroller (day) ensembles. The more historically erudite LL posters have demonstrated amply, I think, that there is a wealth of precedent in the lustrous past to support or alternatively negate any 'rule' one cares to quote so my attempt here is not to establish the most typical or 'korrekt' shirt but rather one that would meet the highest aesthetic and practical standards and best express the combination of out-of-time formality and sybaritic joie-de-vivre that, in my thinking, wearing semi-formal rig expresses, these days.

I will start with the PRACTICAL requirements because they are in some ways the hardest to meet, setting themselves perhaps at odds with aesthetic excellence and decorative imagination. As most office workers, semi-formal is for me something worn exclusively on social occasions and that entails two key considerations: the ensemble must wear as cool as possible and the shirt, specifically, must not appear ridiculous I the event of the jacket being temporarily removed. I realise the latter is objectionable to many, but I have yet to spend any protracted time dancing without needing to remove my jacket (the alternative of rivulets of perspiration running down my face is worse, I think - apologies for the personal remark). Thus the practical aspect to me would dictate a light material but one that, together with the cut, looks acceptable with the jacket off. That is to say: no bib. A material that has a lot of the texture and attractiveness of Marcella without the towelling-level weight is the panama weave.

Although stand-up and butterfly collars are certainly fine with semi-formal and create it a nice sense of occasion / retro interest, I would aver, in this case, for a fold-down, probably without very long points.
For the cuff, both in terms of a nice historical twist, and keeping weight down I would think a single cuff (with links, not a barrel cuff).

In terms of the front, I was thinking that a “blind” one (i.e. one where there is no placket nor visible buttons) one might come off particularly clean and sleek but on the other hand, studs do look very nice.

Thoughts?

[Simon A]

Stick with a soft, comfortable shirt in well-ironed linen or cotton. Covered buttons on the front, standard french cuffs and a conventional collar. Wing collars, studs and single-cuff shirts are a feature of white-tie/formal wear. Relax and enjoy your evening wear.

[rodes]

Simon A, I agree exactly. One question. By "covered buttons" do you mean buttons covered by the placket?

[Simon A]

Yes, that's right.

[Frederic Leighton]

Stick with a soft, comfortable shirt in well-ironed linen or cotton. Covered buttons on the front, standard french cuffs and a conventional collar. Wing collars, studs and single-cuff shirts are a feature of white-tie/formal wear. Relax and enjoy your evening wear.

I find it sad that studs have become a burden. They originally were one of the only few pieces of jewellery allowed* and the only item giving a man the room for at least one personal choice, as the rest of the evening outfit had been chosen for him. I consider shirt studs a valid alternative to body piercings, as I got rid of the last one few years ago.

* A ring being the only further exception. I dislike rings, as they remind me of popes and princes (although, like every child, I like very much popes and princes).

[rodes]

Although I have no objection to studs, I mildly prefer evening shirts to have none. A few years ago I learned from Manton's fine book, "The Suit", that bespoke evening shirts generally are made for 2 or 3 studs as opposed to 4, for a cleaner look. I had always simply ordered 4 as a matter of habit. Reasoning that the fewer studs the better, why have any at all. It works for me as I eschew jewelry except for cufflinks, even then only rarely for special occasions, and a wedding band.

[Manself]

Why not make a virtue of the fact that you're planning to remove your jacket and get a 'West End' shirt from Budd? These come with a 'fun' back, made of different pieces of colourful cloth. The RTW version is enormous, and annoyingly I've left it too late to order a bespoke one in time for Hogmany, but one day I will have one.

PS
I have just read a blog that says 'party shirts' are the shirt equivalent of the mullet - business in the front, party in the back. That's pretty damning!

[Malandro]

Today I saw a fabric for a dinner shirt in a Loro Piana book: off-white, 90% cashmere, 10% silk, 180 g. Could a shirt of such a fabric be of any real use? Or would it be more like a disposable item?

I think I will have one made up from London Lounge Ivory Linen, which is actually white. I would prefer off-white/ecru. Any cotton-free suggestions?

[Luca]

Although I have no objection to studs, I mildly prefer evening shirts to have none. A few years ago I learned from Manton's fine book, "The Suit", that bespoke evening shirts generally are made for 2 or 3 studs as opposed to 4, for a cleaner look. I had always simply ordered 4 as a matter of habit. Reasoning that the fewer studs the better, why have any at all. It works for me as I eschew jewelry except for cufflinks, even then only rarely for special occasions, and a wedding band.

Yes, I've noticed that some knowlegeable posters often mention shirts with a small nuber of studs. Even in a well-fitting shirt, would such a small number of contact points between the two sides not lead to unsightly "gaps" when one moves?

[rodes]

Luca, Maybe. I only have two black tie shirts and both have a soft turn-down collar, French cuffs and a covered placket with the same number of buttons as a standard business shirt so this is not a concern for me. The first one has the usual pleated front. The second has no pleats and can double as a dressy white shirt.

[BirdofSydney]

Dear Luca,

Will you wear a cummerbund, or a low waistcoat? I like the plain-front, covered placket option with the former, but I am less certain with the latter.

I know that there are plenty of opponents to the cummerbund. To my mind, if you are relatively slim of build, it is a comfortable option which raises up your waistline in an attractive manner, while adding the minimum of bulk or warmth. I suppose that if you have a more ample girth, a 3x3 or 6x3 waistcoat might be a better choice.

Especially with a DB waistcoat, I could see the proposed shirt looking a little spare, but with a well-made cummerbund with a subtle sheen, it sounds superb.

Regards,

Bird

[Luca]

I agree that cummerbunds are a bit too easily dismissed by many tailoring fans. Among other things, they clearly wear more cooly. In my particular case, the idea for that shirt would be to wear it mostly with a waistcoat, I suppose.

Speaking of cummerbunds, I seem to only have seen around the ones that clip at the back. Does anyone make the old fashioned wrap-around ones (stupid question, probably...).

[rodes]

Luca, Your first sentence affords a good opportunity to once again pitch the stroller. This is my favorite coat and I never miss the chance to wear it. Or to post favorably about it. To all those who yet do not have one, order one and bring back the custom for life is short. This coat is so close to what we presently wear, that bringing it back into favor should be quite easy.
Now to your question, I always wear a soft, spread, white collar shirt with no pleats and French cuffs with semi-formal day wear. If the occasion is solemn, i.e. a baptism, the shirt color is always white. If the occasion is merry, i.e. a wedding, the color is usually pale blue and sometimes white.

[Luca]

I've been thinking quite keenly about a stroller. Other than the minor point that I would scarcely have any opportunities to wear it , the only thing holding me back just now is that with a couple of commissions already on the go I think restraint might be advisable. I'm not a huge fan of the so-called "sponge-bag" pattern for the trousers and I understand that a common alternative is some sort of houndstooth. I suppose a grey chalk- or pin-stripe would also be aesthaetically and historically acceptable? It certainly would decrease the potential for the "hotel concierge" effect.

Question: what hat do you typically wear with a stroller? A Homburg? And would a topper be 'wrong'?

[rodes]

Luca, Here is my best advice. Very dark grey double breasted suit and one pair of black and white houndstooth or Prince of Wales checked trousers with no colored overcheck. You will have twice the opportunities for wear for only the cost of the trousers.