Breast pocket placement

[Pssst]

When I saw these pictures I realized that menswear fashions influence breast pocket placement on a coat. I presume Mr Barbera and Mr Modenese are wearing summer suits which were made a long time ago, because the breast pocket is placed rather low. Especially when compared with the styles you see nowadays. Are there any pointers on the 'ideal' placement of a breast pocket?

[hectorm]

More than a specific fashion dictum, I believe that the correct breast pocket placement is a question of overall balance. If the jacket is cut generously and with rather wide lapels, the breast pocket should not be placed too high or it would be partially covered and rest uncomfortably squeezed next to the shoulder seam.
A shorter jacket with rather thin lapels (and high gorge) can take a higher breast pocket.
Although their suits could have been made a long time ago, our friends Luciano and Beppe are not influenced by fashion in their placement of the breast pocket, believe me. Actually their suits could be quite new.

[Mark Seitelman]

Pocket placement is a matter of proportion in relation to the gorge.

In the above examples, if the breast pocket were placed higher, then the pockets would be partially if not totally covered by the lapel.

Although the "fashion" in RTW is for a higher gorge and higher pocket, both gentlemen are well dressed in a classic manner. Nothing is out of proportion or "out there."

[Gruto]

I agree with the above, but there is also an element of form should follow function here: The lower breast pocket is simply easier to use, which in general make it more harmonious IMO.

[Despos]

The breast pocket position in these two pictures is intentional. The pocket is in relation to how the lapel covers just the corner of the breast pocket about 1cm. This was the approach of Italian tailors I trained with. We would make and finish the lapels before making the breast pocket to get this effect. Some clients wanted the entire pocket exposed and we would position differently.
Other considerations are placing the pocket in relation to the sleeve notch and the bottom of the armhole. If the armhole is very high, it makes the pocket too high. I use an equation too. 1/3rd distance of the front length to the breast pocket, 1/3rd to the lower pockets and 1/3rd to the hem. This works well with certain sizes. I use other proportions for other sizes but it may be too much detail.

[hectorm]

The pocket is in relation to how the lapel covers just the corner of the breast pocket about 1cm. This was the approach of Italian tailors I trained with.

Despos: your remark made me go to my closets and double-check. Now I realize how little I know about this subject. All my bespoke jackets made by Italian tailors have that feature. The lapel indeed bites the corner of the breast pocket. I don´t remember having ordered it specifically beyond the odd request for a barchetta style, so it was the default option for the Italian school.
But, oh surprise, all my SR jackets (Huntsman´s and Poole´s from the 90´s) have the same characteristic. The DB peak lapels bite the pocket and the SB notch lapels still, but a little bit less. So it seems to be also a classic British school idea.
My American made jackets (although by tailors from different nationalities, and many of them MTM) are a mixed bag. Most of them with completely exposed breast pockets and a few (the peak lapels) kissing them.

[Pssst]

The breast pocket position in these two pictures is intentional. The pocket is in relation to how the lapel covers just the corner of the breast pocket about 1cm. This was the approach of Italian tailors I trained with. We would make and finish the lapels before making the breast pocket to get this effect. Some clients wanted the entire pocket exposed and we would position differently.
Other considerations are placing the pocket in relation to the sleeve notch and the bottom of the armhole. If the armhole is very high, it makes the pocket too high. I use an equation too. 1/3rd distance of the front length to the breast pocket, 1/3rd to the lower pockets and 1/3rd to the hem. This works well with certain sizes. I use other proportions for other sizes but it may be too much detail.

Thank you for your reply.