Fri Apr 15, 2011 7:17 pm
Yes, I believe it was the Bond books and films that started the vogue for wearing diver watches with business or dinner clothes. Just as from the late '60s through the '70s the presence of Rover and Toyota land cruisers on wildlife television and adventure films made them increasingly popular with suburbanites who wanted to look rugged and dashing as they went about their errands, leading to the development of SUVs as the automakers caught on.
You are right that traditionally, sport and military/adventure watches were specialty gear, and one wouldn't wear them in the city or in the evening any more than you would your tennis whites or ice crampons. I still prefer a thin, more elegant leather-strapped watch with suits. With sport coat and odd trousers, I sometimes wear the steel and gray '77 Oyster Perpetual, and sometimes the 1934 gold Asprey manual tank on a black alligator strap.
As Carl Browne says, though, things have loosened up by now, at least in the States. So long as your Seamaster isn't dramatically oversized for your wrist, it is classic enough that few people would look askance at it in most situations. If you have or plan to acquire a more restrained and dressier watch (say, for example, a PP Calatrava, below, or the Cartier Tank you mention in another thread) for serious client meetings, evening cultural events or fine dining, and so on, then it will be easy enough for you to find your own "crossover point" at which one feels more appropriate than the other. And CB is certainly correct about dinner clothes and full dress: skip the watch altogether.