Uppercase,uppercase wrote:FL
what's your secret for getting the arched tie?
No secrets; all you need is one of these! ...for me a combination of these two - lightweight tie and snug-fit collar. Is it the same for you?
The Minimal Necktie Wardrobe
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Frederic Leighton
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No secrets; all you need is one of these! ...for me a combination of these two - lightweight tie and snug-fit collar. Is it the same for you?
Frederic Leighton wrote:Uppercase,uppercase wrote:FL
what's your secret for getting the arched tie?
No secrets; all you need is one of these!
Dear UC,
I find that a good half inch (or even a bit more) of tie space at the collar front makes the trick with a four-in-hand knot. When you tie a a tight four-in-hand around your neck, it naturally tends to keep horizontal (perpendicular to your Adam´s Apple). If your shirt collar does not press it down because there is that space at the front button, then your necktie will stay arched. This is more difficult to achieve with the majority of regular RTW shirts. Also there´s the tab trick but that´s another story.
I find that a good half inch (or even a bit more) of tie space at the collar front makes the trick with a four-in-hand knot. When you tie a a tight four-in-hand around your neck, it naturally tends to keep horizontal (perpendicular to your Adam´s Apple). If your shirt collar does not press it down because there is that space at the front button, then your necktie will stay arched. This is more difficult to achieve with the majority of regular RTW shirts. Also there´s the tab trick but that´s another story.
Yes, the tie space idea does make sense so the collar doesn't push the tie downward.
I'll give it a try.
Most of my shirts are RTW so usually with no space
but I'm going to see what I have.
I would also think that a softer collar would help so the collar doesn't push down the tie knot.
Plus I'm guessing that the collar point length needs to be
substantially lengthened in a custom shirt if the tie knot is not to push up the points
off the shirt body.
FL's point re. a lightweight tie makes a lot of sense to help keep the tie knot airborne.
I'm not sure how the collar heighth figures into the equation to get an arched tie.
I'll give it a try.
Most of my shirts are RTW so usually with no space
but I'm going to see what I have.
I would also think that a softer collar would help so the collar doesn't push down the tie knot.
Plus I'm guessing that the collar point length needs to be
substantially lengthened in a custom shirt if the tie knot is not to push up the points
off the shirt body.
FL's point re. a lightweight tie makes a lot of sense to help keep the tie knot airborne.
I'm not sure how the collar heighth figures into the equation to get an arched tie.
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Frederic Leighton
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My collars have a gap for the knot and are very rigid (my preference). I don't think the contact between points of the collar and body of the shirt as an aureal requirement. Actually I go for the opposite, which I've seen in many photos and like. Cut-away collars are a different thing, of course.uppercase wrote:Yes, the tie space idea does make sense so the collar doesn't push the tie downward. [...] I would also think that a softer collar would help so the collar doesn't push down the tie knot. Plus I'm guessing that the collar point length needs to be substantially lengthened in a custom shirt if the tie knot is not to push up the points off the shirt body. [...]
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Frederic Leighton
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The sight of a very well-dressed gentleman on a National Rail train departing from Moorgate yesterday(*) made me realise the urgency of adding the first yellow tie to my Minimal Necktie Wardrobe of bespoke ties. A true first time, as I passed the 35-year mark without wearing a yellow tie ever. It's not that I don't acknowledge how well it goes with greys and blues; I just never liked the colour very much.
Time to try something new!
It would be great if fellow members wanted to share a description, verbal of photographic, of their favourite yellow tie and of their favourite combinations to include this item. I would have loads to learn from them and, without further delay, I thank them in advance.
(*) I found the man, over-70, a truly inspiring example of elegance. He was wearing a double-breasted suit in chalk-stripe midnight-blue flannel with a white shirt. The bright-yellow tie had a geometric pattern of very sparse and minute decorative elements, a mix of squares and compass needles.
Time to try something new!
It would be great if fellow members wanted to share a description, verbal of photographic, of their favourite yellow tie and of their favourite combinations to include this item. I would have loads to learn from them and, without further delay, I thank them in advance.(*) I found the man, over-70, a truly inspiring example of elegance. He was wearing a double-breasted suit in chalk-stripe midnight-blue flannel with a white shirt. The bright-yellow tie had a geometric pattern of very sparse and minute decorative elements, a mix of squares and compass needles.
Yellow ties are nice, but a bit tricky. They run the gamut from almost-bleached-beige through egg-yolk-from-corn-fed-chicken, to 2-year-old-mustard. For daytime wear, I like a neat Macclesfield that is light but not blanched. Something like this, although you could make do with smaller figures. Come cooler weather, look for the equivalent in challis or ancient madder. Some worry that it's too 1980s, but I say why worry? It was one of the few classic ideas that came to the fore then. Almost any kind of shirt and classic suit could work here.
For a slightly less formal look, a grenadine or a linen could work. Or even a reppe/twill kind of thing. Maybe on a pale blue shirt with yellow stripes (careful not to clash!), a more classic white with blue or burgundy stripes, or a pale pink solid.
For evening, you could do a woven tie that mixes yellow in with white and light blue. I'd link one of those, but I think it's now in hibernation. Anyway, that could be a standard nearly-formal item with a white shirt and navy suit.
For a slightly less formal look, a grenadine or a linen could work. Or even a reppe/twill kind of thing. Maybe on a pale blue shirt with yellow stripes (careful not to clash!), a more classic white with blue or burgundy stripes, or a pale pink solid.
For evening, you could do a woven tie that mixes yellow in with white and light blue. I'd link one of those, but I think it's now in hibernation. Anyway, that could be a standard nearly-formal item with a white shirt and navy suit.
Dear Federico,
You've hit a (pleasant) nerve. If one's coloring makes navy a flattering color, I have always found that one of the most elegant possible daytime combinations is a navy blazer, white shirt and solid yellow tie. However, the yellow tie must be the right one. For the effect I prize, the function of the yellow is to provide lift and light to the ensemble, so yellows that tend towards the orange, mustard, olive or acid green, etc. have the opposite effect and (some of them) better suit other (usually autumnal) ensembles—and often require patterns.
I've learned that the successful version of this mode relies on low contrast between shirt and tie, as evening dress does, so that the yellow does not stand out as an 80s "power tie" statement of assertiveness. Instead, the very dark blue and the very pale yellow are perfectly complementary on both the color wheel and the value scale. To me, a pale butter yellow (creamy) or almost lemon yellow (clearer) silk is best.
Then there is the question of texture. A plain satin (and possibly even a repp) in solid yellow still runs the risk of looking slick, not rich, and ruining the effect. My absolute favorite is a slub-silk shantung in this subtle butter color. It has surface interest, enough luminosity, and richness, without slickness. And as it's a small surface, it avoids the risk of appearing, as in some dupioni silk suits, a bit de trop. I first saw this combination in a catalog from the haberdasher Britches of Georgetown in the early 1980s and, having made the test, have kept such a tie in my wardrobe ever since. I don't recall whether Sam Hober offers a tie like this, but I'd bet their Thai silks would be perfect.
On the same general principle I have other yellow ties. One for summer is a pale butter yellow silk/cotton blend in a pinpoint oxford weave (so white threads are visible in the texture) from J. Press; this one has sky blue and white stripes in a regimental pattern (also in the oxford weave). Light macclesfields as Condordia says. And as he also says, challis or madder silk with creamy yellow field and small or medium paisleys or other motifs works well, especially with earthy tweeds, etc. And pale yellow is a great base for knit ties (solid or with dots, stripes, etc.).
I find that more gold- or orange-yellow ties don't work well with my coloring, but can be very smart on those with darker or more olive-toned skin.
Let us know what you decide on!
You've hit a (pleasant) nerve. If one's coloring makes navy a flattering color, I have always found that one of the most elegant possible daytime combinations is a navy blazer, white shirt and solid yellow tie. However, the yellow tie must be the right one. For the effect I prize, the function of the yellow is to provide lift and light to the ensemble, so yellows that tend towards the orange, mustard, olive or acid green, etc. have the opposite effect and (some of them) better suit other (usually autumnal) ensembles—and often require patterns.
I've learned that the successful version of this mode relies on low contrast between shirt and tie, as evening dress does, so that the yellow does not stand out as an 80s "power tie" statement of assertiveness. Instead, the very dark blue and the very pale yellow are perfectly complementary on both the color wheel and the value scale. To me, a pale butter yellow (creamy) or almost lemon yellow (clearer) silk is best.
Then there is the question of texture. A plain satin (and possibly even a repp) in solid yellow still runs the risk of looking slick, not rich, and ruining the effect. My absolute favorite is a slub-silk shantung in this subtle butter color. It has surface interest, enough luminosity, and richness, without slickness. And as it's a small surface, it avoids the risk of appearing, as in some dupioni silk suits, a bit de trop. I first saw this combination in a catalog from the haberdasher Britches of Georgetown in the early 1980s and, having made the test, have kept such a tie in my wardrobe ever since. I don't recall whether Sam Hober offers a tie like this, but I'd bet their Thai silks would be perfect.
On the same general principle I have other yellow ties. One for summer is a pale butter yellow silk/cotton blend in a pinpoint oxford weave (so white threads are visible in the texture) from J. Press; this one has sky blue and white stripes in a regimental pattern (also in the oxford weave). Light macclesfields as Condordia says. And as he also says, challis or madder silk with creamy yellow field and small or medium paisleys or other motifs works well, especially with earthy tweeds, etc. And pale yellow is a great base for knit ties (solid or with dots, stripes, etc.).
I find that more gold- or orange-yellow ties don't work well with my coloring, but can be very smart on those with darker or more olive-toned skin.
Let us know what you decide on!
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Frederic Leighton
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Dear Concordia,
Dear Couch,
Many thanks for the generous advice, which I have been studying in great detail since being back from Italy yesterday. I went through Drake's catalogue and Hober's selection, finding some good candidates for my first order, although I think I will have to pop in at Drake's factory to have another look at the many metres of shelves packed with silks that are not available on the website. I remember quite a few yellow and cream options there, always ignored during my past visits.
Italy was fun. Soon, I might have to report about linen shirting and bespoke hats, in addition to my first yellow tie. Thank you again!
Kind regards,
federico
Dear Couch,
Many thanks for the generous advice, which I have been studying in great detail since being back from Italy yesterday. I went through Drake's catalogue and Hober's selection, finding some good candidates for my first order, although I think I will have to pop in at Drake's factory to have another look at the many metres of shelves packed with silks that are not available on the website. I remember quite a few yellow and cream options there, always ignored during my past visits.
Italy was fun. Soon, I might have to report about linen shirting and bespoke hats, in addition to my first yellow tie. Thank you again!
Kind regards,
federico
Dear Federico,
two days ago at Charvet in Paris, your yellow tie fever crossed my mind
Many Charvet designs are on the interesting side, as the English would politely say. But some are extraordinary and unusual and elegant at the same time - a class of its own. The quality is superb on all, of course. And there is this yellow corner somewhere in the shop... don't miss it when in Paris next time!
Cheers, David
two days ago at Charvet in Paris, your yellow tie fever crossed my mind
Many Charvet designs are on the interesting side, as the English would politely say. But some are extraordinary and unusual and elegant at the same time - a class of its own. The quality is superb on all, of course. And there is this yellow corner somewhere in the shop... don't miss it when in Paris next time!
Cheers, David
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Frederic Leighton
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Dear David,davidhuh wrote:Dear Federico, two days ago at Charvet in Paris, your yellow tie fever crossed my mind
Thank you for the recommendation! Hope you enjoyed your stay in Paris; I'm looking forward to my long weekend there. I assume Charvet is happy to make ties to your own specifications; do you know anything about the bespoke service?
[quote="Frederic Leighton"I assume Charvet is happy to make ties to your own specifications; do you know anything about the bespoke service?[/quote]
Dear Federico,
they do, of course. Read my 2012 story here: http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum/vi ... 39&p=64106
Cheers, David
Dear Federico,
they do, of course. Read my 2012 story here: http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum/vi ... 39&p=64106
Cheers, David
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Frederic Leighton
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Many thanks for the link, David! I wondered quite a few times over the past months if the times might be ripe for a new London Lounge club tie (and I still have to come across surviving pictures of the first one). I was at Drake's today to play a bit with their yellow ties...davidhuh wrote:Dear Federico, they do, of course. Read my 2012 story here:
There might have been discussion of the same pattern with yellow dots on royal blue, or vice versa. An intriguing possibility, as my silver/black doesn't see nearly enough exposure.
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