Ballantyne

[Concordia]

They're all competing furiously for my business.

And not just Concordia's, but most guys who are still wearing low-rise trousers or need to cover surplus assets.

There are a few interesting assumptions built into that.

Although I am a bit short for my weight, it is also true that my legs are noticeably shorter than my son's-- and he is just about my height these days.

As a practical matter, it works much better to have a longer body at a given size than to capture a comfortable length at the cost of a billowy chest and waist by moving one size higher.

[couch]

Concordia, I see that my construction was ambiguous and might be read to include you in one or both of the two categories I mentioned. Please accept my apology. I meant that the companies in question were competing not only for your business, as you postulated, but also those of the other two categories of potential buyers. And that the volume of those two categories dwarfs (at least at present) that of those who prefer a higher waist line, which was T.K.'s question. So as with jackets with low armholes and square, built-up shoulders, long, full sweaters can (sort of) accommodate a wider range of potential buyers, which equals more profit for makers with less waste. If you are trim but long-waisted, you are a collateral beneficiary of something that is almost certainly not directed at your particular proportions. No doubt there are other situations where being more long-waisted than average creates sartorial challenges.

And I empathize. More and more, RTW makers, even the better ones, are reducing the size variations they maintain. I have quite narrow feet, and it seems every year there are fewer shoes made in widths I can wear. Last year Sperry dropped the slim width in its half-century-old Striper canvas deck shoe, which has been a staple for me and remains a best-seller for them. Bass and Sebago et al. no longer make classic norwegian loafers narrow enough for me—I'm going to have to go bespoke with Russell Moccasin to get the classic style. I can't find a dirty buck or a "desert boot" type chukka in my width (US "A") anymore, even as a special order with up charge. I would argue that classic makers lose brand equity when they can no longer accommodate marginal widths/sizes, even with an up charge. If there are really so few of us, keeping the lasts and charging us a little extra can't cost the company much at all—and I would even suggest that that small cost amortized over the sales of the higher-volume sizes could be supported with no up charge. And the ensuing reputation for dependability, availability, and top-shelf service (not to mention a few more people wearing the brand) would boost the prestige of and word-of-mouth for the brand.

So for shorter RTW sweaters, I fear we will have to wait for fashion to someday return to a higher waist for trousers, and/or for average body mass to decline, or for some niche-market makers to see an opportunity.

Or for LL to put together one or more group buys with specialists who will knit to spec.

[Scot]

Never mind the body length, what's with the arms?

So many RTW garments these days seem to be made for arms that are more suited to swinging through trees than hanging passively from the shoulder of a human being!

But back to cashmere. What intrigues about the Berk is the so-called "bare finish". The old Ballantyne had this wonderful tight-knit, non-milled finish that refused to pill. No other manufacturer that I have come across, including Lockie, matches this. It's a great shame.

[hectorm]

I fear we will have to wait... for LL to put together one or more group buys with specialists who will knit to spec.

Meanwhile, there are out there a few haberdasheries that cater to clients who decide to go the way of bespoke knitwear.
For instance amongst the ones of best quality, Sartoria Ripense in Rome, a couple of blocks from the Piazza del Popolo. They are truly bespoke. You can choose from a large selection of wonderful cashmere or other fibers, and set your model, specifications, etc.

[Measure Man]

I remember watching in awe at an intarsia tiger getting knitted at the Innerleithan factory, this was down to the skill of the operator and before computerized knitting machines.

My late father laid two cashmere pullovers on the counter of our shop, the Ballantyne garment was firmer and a closer knit, but most customers when asked which was the better quality chose the cheaper, softer, shorter and fluffier fibre that would not last and would pill up in no time.

He told me why the Ballantyne garment was more expensive because of the closer knit and the yarn, I now cannot remember the yarn supplier (Todd and Duncan?) For years they were known to be the cream of the knitwear industry.

[Tutumulut]

Never mind the body length, what's with the arms?

So many RTW garments these days seem to be made for arms that are more suited to swinging through trees than hanging passively from the shoulder of a human being!

I for one find it very hard to find RTW garments with enough sleeve length. And my forefathers abandoned their tree homes many generations ago.