Commissioning a bespoke suit for the first time.

[alden]

Did you order a second jacket?

[marburyvmadison]

No, should I have?

[pupsik]

Very nice fabric. More luxurious than the frescos. Decidedly more delicate than the heavier weights. If you wear the suit sparingly, in rotation with several others, it would last you a while. If you look to wear it more than a few times a month, your investment may be more sound in other alternatives.

[marburyvmadison]

*Ah, I see why there are queries on whether I ordered a second suit. I have a mid-grey suit that is heavier, 11 oz, that I might wear on a more regular basis.

Might get one more suit made -- charcoal or midnight blue in a heavier weight made up. The problem with traveling tailors is that they don't have a vast selection on offer.

I do have two questions though, and that is mainly if these fresco type materials (as opposed to the tight weave on heavier fabrics) will be too translucent or look filmsy when made into a suit? When I hold the fabric up against the light, it's decidedly 'translucent' in the sense that light can pass through.

How will these lighter fabrics look when worn? Do they drape well, and fall nicely on the body, or not quite as well as the heavier fabrics?

Details on my suit, pictures will follow when I go for my fittings: Single-breasted 2B, high armholes, structured shoulder, roped-shoulderhead, high-gorge, waist suppression.

[hectorm]

Did you order a second jacket?

It´s just for a couple of years in graduate school and only for those 2 o 3 days of summer in Oxford.
A suit of that weight should hold well (but don´t push it).

[marburyvmadison]

I can still call them and have them change it to the 10-11 oz collection of H Lesser fabric. About 350g. But I've heard comments that this isn't too good. And uncertain if it'll be good in Summer. Ha.

[rogiercreemers]

I have a suit made of Lesser Superfine Tropical, it's a couple of years old now, has been used regularly, and is holding up like a champ for anywhere between 15 and 30 degrees Celcius. Don't confuse this with Fresco, though, while it is a tropical wool, it is quite a bit more tightly woven and wears warmer.

A second pair of trousers generally extends the longevity of a suit, as trousers tend to wear more quickly than coats. However, navy also can work well as an odd coat, so you could wear the coat separately.

[marburyvmadison]

What's the weight of your Lesser Superfine Tropical?

[rogiercreemers]

8/9oz. You can see the book online on the Harrison's of Edinburgh website.

[Concordia]

Golden Bale may be finer than you really need, but it will certainly hold you for nicer (not black-tie and maybe not sub-fusc) events in warmer weather if you don't overdo it.

Other alternatives would be the regular Lesser 8-9oz (which is plenty fine for most purposes unless you need something really dressy) or some of the other lightweight specimens in the Harrisons books.

Anyway, as long as you're otherwise covered for matriculation and black-tie dinners, you should now be well on your way.

[marburyvmadison]

Nice. Am browsing through them now.

Does anybody have a recommendation for a dark navy suit (8-9 oz)? Are the colors on the site -- http://www.harrisonsofedinburgh.com/col ... html#tab32 -- representative of how they look in real life?

Am thinking about changing my order to 30320, or, 30318. I think 30322 has a vibrant blue, but am afraid it might be too informal to wear about the city.

30320 -- http://www.harrisonsofedinburgh.com/pub ... /30320.jpg
30318 -- http://www.harrisonsofedinburgh.com/pub ... /30318.jpg
30322 -- http://www.harrisonsofedinburgh.com/pub ... /30322.jpg

*I sincerely appreciate all the help I'm getting. This is the first time bespeaking a jacket, hence, I'm somewhat apprehensive, yet enjoying the process.

[alden]

MvM

Whoever said you would get 10 wears out of that 7 ozs GB cloth was being honest with you.

I wear 13 ozs in summer and I only have two suits under that weight so I am not able to give you much help. But I very much like the old Lesser 9.5-10 ozs without cashmere, and everyone who has the old Tropical raves about it. What you want to avoid is a lightweight suit that is going to look dumpy in short order. You are young. Give yourself all the chances to be as splendid as you can. You never know when lady luck will come rapping on your door. Be prepared for her. Limp, lifeless,wrinkled and lightweight is not good preparation.

It would help to know the kind of make you are going to have in this suit. Is it a structured
suit or a more natural one? Tightly woven wool worsted and lots of horsehair will wear hot.

Cheers

[marburyvmadison]

Hi Michael,

Thank you for your comments. I've sent an email to the tailor (or rather, his assistant), and asked for a heftier weight in navy. One reason why I went with a lighter weight was because I did see your post sometime ago, of a lightweight Minnis double-breasted suit, and found that it fit pretty well, hence I decided to give that lightweight a chance. However, I have since decided otherwise.

1) Do you have any recommendations on color, assuming that it'll be a business suit. Have narrowed down my choices to darker options because I'd rather have a conservative suit I can go to for work/presentations. Since I'm fresh from university, and have not been paying much attention to suits as I am now, I'm somewhat clueless as to which shade of color might be acceptable, or not.

The colors, am prepared to go darker if necessary:

http://www.harrisonsofedinburgh.com/pub ... /30318.jpg
http://www.harrisonsofedinburgh.com/pub ... /30320.jpg

I'm asking for a more structured fit, slightly draped chest, that still cuts a lean shape.

2) At present, I am still deliberating as to whether I should have another heftier weight (13-14 oz) suit in charcoal grey commissioned. Am deliberating between Kent, Haste & Lachter, and Henry Poole. I also considered Anderson & Sheppard, but am concerned that the soft, and slightly loose silhouette that they're famous for might not fit well on me. Since suits at Kent, Haste and Lachter begin from 2250 pounds, and I'd venture to guess, significantly more at Poole or A & S, is the upcharge justified? Or will Kent and Haste take good care of me.

*I must apologize for the many queries. I've just begun my bespoke journey and have found the information on this forum significantly more useful for my bespoke journey than others I have been part of. This penchant for good dress actually began when I interned as a writer with the style editor of The Rake when she was at another magazine.

[alden]

MvM

Either of those two look good. It is hard to tell the difference in blues on a computer screen. For the use you intend on, go for the darker shade. If it were me I would choose a dark blue birdseye but you might want to wait for that one.

My fresco in 9 ozs is fine but it wears about the same as my 13 ozs brisa and my 14 ozs linens. So I prefer the added drape, resistance to wrinkles and over all substantial feel of the heavier cloth.

A dark blue Tropical may be a good way to go. Smith Woollens also has a nice lightweight blend called Gilt Edge as well.

The LL was made for you and your questions, so keep em coming!

Cheers

[st.tully]

2) At present, I am still deliberating as to whether I should have another heftier weight (13-14 oz) suit in charcoal grey commissioned. Am deliberating between Kent, Haste & Lachter, and Henry Poole. I also considered Anderson & Sheppard, but am concerned that the soft, and slightly loose silhouette that they're famous for might not fit well on me. Since suits at Kent, Haste and Lachter begin from 2250 pounds, and I'd venture to guess, significantly more at Poole or A & S, is the upcharge justified? Or will Kent and Haste take good care of me.

My m.o. is to use bespoke for heavier "lifetime" fabrics - which start at 12/13 oz. For me to justify up to 3000 pounds it is going to have to be a longterm relationship. I live in the southern USA - and when it is hot and you have to wear a suit or a jacket, there is nothing "lightweight" enough to make is cool - you just sweat in everything. My solution is poplin suits from wherever I get them on sale - fortunately I'm not too far off a stock size. If I have an important meeting, I wear my 13 oz and just plan to stay in the A/c as much as possible.

Who are you using now?

I'm very happy with Poole and they are absolutely fabulous on insuring you have the best fitting suit possible. i would suggest starting with them. Pricewise they are about 25% more than KHL.

Good luck.