Choosing a tailor in London

[bquinn]

I've just had my first baste fitting with Connock and Lockie. There were a few fit issues, nothing that can't be fixed. I've been told to expect another baste fitting in 2-3 weeks.

I'm very pleased with the experience so far, and the fabrics (especially the flannel for the trousers) are lovely.

[bquinn]

Gentleman,

I apologize for not posting this sooner, but it's been a hectic couple of weeks.

2 weeks ago, I had my second skeletal baste fitting with Mr. Craig at Connock & Lockie.

The primary reason we needed a second skeletal baste fitting, was because, as a new bespeaker, I had been less than clear about what I wanted. The jacket, at the first fitting was more of the half-norfolk jacket that J.S. Groot mentioned, than the fancy-backed sportcoat I'd envisioned. It turned out that this was due to my answer to the question, "open or closed coat". I had wanted fairly closed quarters, so answered "closed", rather than asking for clarification.

Mr. Craig was very nice about it, but it did mean that the coat had to be re-cut. Hence a second skeletal baste. There were also a few fit issues with the trousers (as mentioned in the previous post), but they wouldn't have required a second skeletal baste.

I didn't take photos last time, as given the scope of the changes, I didn't think them worthwhile, but I did take photos this time (or rather, a very nice young shop assistant took them for me), and I've included them below, to let you gentlemen into the game.

I must apologise for looking a bit like a drowned rat in the photos, I'd been caught in the rain on the walk from the tube station.

Trousers Front:


Trousers Back:


As you can see, I've decided to stay with the braces back on the trousers. It's extremely comfortable, and I think it looks well enough with a collared dress shirt. It is true that they won't be as versatile as a self-supporting trouser would be. In particular, I don't think they'd look well with any other kind of shirt. However, they are extremely comfortable, and I like the way they hang very much. I also have to say that I'm really falling in love with this flannel. Soft and warm, it seems like the perfect cloth for cool-weather trousers. At some point, I'll probably have several other pairs made from the same book in other colors. I'll wait to see how these wear, but from all reports, 13/14 oz flannel should be fairly durable.

Jacket Front:


Jacket Back:


Jacket Shoulder Detail:


I decided to drop the half-belt (at Mr. Craig's recommendation). It was on for the first skeletal baste, but not for the second. Mr. Craig's opinion is that the back will look better without it, and having seen it both ways, I agree. I also decided (based partly on the feedback here) against having a ticket pocket.

I spoke to Mr. Craig about straight pockets, but he was adamant that with this cloth and the bi-swing back, only slanted pockets would suit. After we talked about it for a few minutes, I decided to take his advice.

The next fitting is still probably a few weeks away, I was told to expect early November.

[Badden]

Nice post. Would be great to see the completed coat in action.

[alden]

Yes let's see the coat.

The only time slanted pockets are "required" is for use on equestrian jackets. They were designed to make the pockets more accessible while on horseback. If you are not spending a good deal of time on a horse you can live without them.

Cheers

Michael

[ay329]

Is it me or is this an action pleated back?

Love the orange braces...barathea?

[bquinn]

Thanks for the comments, gentlemen. I'd love to show you the finished coat, but I haven't seen it yet myself. Since my last comment, I did have one additional fitting at the end of November, which was (to my surprise) still at the skeleton baste stage. I believe that the next fitting (which should hopefully happen soon, I was told to expect it around now), will be at what was referred to as the "advanced" stage.

Interestingly, this approach (multiple skeleton baste fittings, one advanced, then delivery) is what Richard Anderson describes as what was used at Huntsman during his apprenticeship. It's certainly very different from what I was expecting based on what I've read (admittedly mostly by A&S alumni).

The coat is in a tweed, with an action (bi-swing) back. Michael, I know that slanted pockets aren't required on a coat like this, at least not by any rules. However, in this case, I think they're required by the vision that Mr. Craig seems to have for this coat! When I asked for straight pockets, he went on at length about the specific tweed, the action back, the cut of the quarters, the shape of the lapel, and how straight pockets wouldn't suit... In the end, I chose to defer to his vision.

ay329, the braces are a "house" pair, owned by C&L. They're a faded red boxcloth, not quite as orange in life as they are in the photos.

At this point, I'm rather philosophical about the time this project is taking. I know it *will* be great... when it's done.