Blue Worsted Fabric - Suggestions Please

[old henry]

The H.Lesser Tropicals book also has some of the richest French blues that you will find . { as alden says - avoid cashmere blend }

[ICM]

This is the first time I've come upon this very important distinction. What Hardy Amies calls "good navy" is actually the color I've been looking for, since I intend to commission my first bespoken suit from a fabric of this color as well. True navy is useful only for uniforms, and that is the reason that its only use in civilian clothing is blazers and suits occupying the spot in formality between quiet day suits and proper dinner clothes (the formal nature of such suits calls for stripes and they are deployed in the evening). Of course, politicians wear plain navy suits with red or blue ties all the time, and that's one of the reasons no one really has any use for a plain true navy suit unless he is a politician.

[J. Cogburn]

Spent some time with my tailor today looking over your suggestions. There is indeed a wonderful light (French) navy in Smith's Gilt Edge collection, but alas, it's only an 8 oz. cloth - to light for my purposes given that I'm looking for something that will serve during the "shoulder" seasons. There is a nice light (French) navy tic-weave in Lesser's 9 - 9/2 oz. book, but there's an even nicer light navy sharkskin in Lesser's 11 - 11 1/2 oz. book (#30914). I think that's the cloth I'm going to go with.

[A.Hacking]

I have a suit in a 10/11 oz French Blue from Harrisons. It's a nice cloth but I'm finding it difficult to find the right pair of shoes to match. Black look good when dressing in the bedroom but step into the daylight and the cloth seems to brighten up and black shoes just look wrong. I've also tried oxblood chelsea boots but they don't seem right either. Tan shoes are good for informal events but frowned on at the office I'm afraid. (although not by anyone whom I would consider to dress well, I would add)

[J. Cogburn]

Nicholas Storey, author of A History of Men's Fashion and fellow London Lounger, would likely tell you to man-up and just wear the black shoes if you're heading to the office. Brown, burgundy, or whatever is inappropriate in the city work place ... period. Sure, brown shoes might look better, but traditional rules of men's dress aren't primarily about looking good. They are about looking appropriate. Otherwise, we'd all be wearing electric teal ties to match our eye color or some-such.

Now, I don't have Mr. Storey's most excellent book in front of me at the moment, so there's always a chance my recollection of his discourse on this subject is incorrect. If so, Mr. Storey will likely jump-in here and correct me and perhaps admonish me for putting words in his mouth.

Of course, you may be one of those who says "Rules-shmules; I'll wear what I like and, if I'm called on it, claim spezzatura." You're call.

[Yale Cameron]

I really think the whole "black shoes" only in the city has become an anchronism. Perhaps it still holds true in conservative offices in London, NYC, Chicago, etc. But, where I live (phoenix) it is a complete anachronism. I am a lawyer in a small firm. We wear suits every day, yet most of the lawyers wear brown shoes on a consistent basis even when going to court. I like black shoes and brown shoes and wear both. Yet, I could wear brown shoes every day and no one would bat an eyelash.

[J. Cogburn]

It undoubtedly is. Virtually all of the old rules regarding gentlemanly dress are an anachronism in the sense that they are unheeded far, far more than they are observed.

Shall we allow majority-rule (sociologically speaking) to govern our own dress, hold stubbornly to the old sartorial customs even while recognizing that those old customs are moving targets - themselves evolutions from still older, more historically "correct" customs that we would never embrace today - or try to understand the meaning of those customs and deciding on a case-by-case basis whether they still make a compelling case to us today for our means of dress?

This is a big and interesting topic probably deserving its own thread, but my own approach is the third of three I mention.

[Yale Cameron]

J. Cog I would agree with your analysis pretty much completely and I too would say I take your third approach. On many things I actually like the old rules. Shoes is one where I have to disagree. The black shoes only in city has just been completely dropepd by the wayside and from an aesthetic sense, brown shoes often look better with things. Plus, the black shoe in city was really an "english" only rule. the italians and continental europoeans have long worn brown shoes with suits in "city." I would never allow majority rule to govern my thinking, in fact I am generally the exact opposite of that. But, the whole no brown in town thing just seems pretty useless to me these days.

[Simon A]

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[Scot]

I have just seen a very nice light navy H Lesser worsted flannel - 13 oz

[usctrojan55]

There is a great navy in the H&S victory 140 book. The color is just perfect for a standard navy suit. It has become one of my favorites and the fabric wears well.