Fullness

[Gruto]

It like the fullness. Technically, would you call this blue coat a blazer or is just an odd jacket?

[alden]

Well, as for the right shoulder: It's just a tired man. I noticed that your right shoulder is hanging more in the evening than in the morning. No chance for a tailor to compensate for that.

SG,

A great comment and how very true. Our bodies change almost everyday though we may not notice it. The only thing constant about our bodies, our posture, our weight is that it changes. And how in the name of all the patron Saints of tailors is a craftsman to compensate for all of these? The answer is he compensates for the most reoccurring of the above changes, a kind of median composition.

So it always amazes me how people micro focused on details and wrinkles can never truly be happy with their clothes. Just as they begin to get used to a look, their body changes and things go awry; it may be stress, fatigue, happiness, elation, sickness, joy, depression, hunger, hangover that causes the slouch or the dip or ...the clothes will show it. And that is exactly how it should be.

Cheers

M Alden

[HappyStroller]

Dear Mr. Anton, I could see why a DB looks better on you initially because the DB front presents a flatter plane. From the photos, the presence of the slim waist is overemphasized, acting as a contrast with the roundness of the belly.

But I can see that perhaps the frontal image could be improved if the cloth of the left frontal side is extended further to the right of the buttoned middle button (you did mentioned it was a 3-button jacket in your later post) so that your jacket doesn't look so stretched at the point where you button the jacket. Perhaps the effect would be closer to that of a flatter-looking DB then.

[a tailor]

i do think that schneidergott is right. its not the jacket its your shoulder. that right is lower, when you are fresh and feeling strong you stand straight. when you are tired that right shoulder sags.
i do the same when i am fresh i stand erect. when i am tired i am stooped. i have two different postures. .

[manton]

Indeed, I have a low right shoulder. That jacket fits my shoulders perfectly. I prefer not to have my tailor try to "fix" what nature and nature's God have deliberately left imperfect. And, I don't like padding. So, for the coat to fit, it will show the low shoulder. I think if you met me in person, you would not notice, but in a static photo it becomes quite evident.

HS, the jacket is not stretching or straining at the waist button by any means. It is hanging loosely. What you are seeing -- that "crater" -- is the result of fullness and the roll-through effect of the lapel cut.

Unfortunately, this coat -- like one or two others of mine -- does not seem to like the camera. "Imperfections" show themselves, like scratches in an old record. But personally, I don't care. I love the way the look in real life, and -- above all -- I love how they wear. I am willing to endure some negative iGent points for clothes that I enjoy this much.

[manton]

It like the fullness. Technically, would you call this blue coat a blazer or is just an odd jacket?

When I got that coat, I meant it solely as an odd jacket. I called it the "non-blazer blazer."

However, after I got it, I got trousers for it and renamed it the "BlazerSuit." It is a great travel garment, and indeed it has been to quite a few destinations with me.

[ottovbvs]

It like the fullness. Technically, would you call this blue coat a blazer or is just an odd jacket?

When I got that coat, I meant it solely as an odd jacket. I called it the "non-blazer blazer."

However, after I got it, I got trousers for it and renamed it the "BlazerSuit." It is a great travel garment, and indeed it has been to quite a few destinations with me.

Interestingly, I had two jackets made last Spring in Linen in exactly this shape, patch pockets, double vents, the lot. One in dark blue and one in a pale blue with a pin stripe. I'm bound to say they seem to me very much individual jackets that one would wear with linen or linen mix pants rather than as a suit but there you go.

I'm totally with you on the "fullness" issue though. It is interesting that younger folks seem to have gone overboard on these tight high buttoned jackets and what I call the "tube" pants. It's very evident in the comments one sees at SF and at Sartorialist. They'll grow out of it.

[ottovbvs]

Indeed, I have a low right shoulder. That jacket fits my shoulders perfectly. I prefer not to have my tailor try to "fix" what nature and nature's God have deliberately left imperfect. And, I don't like padding. So, for the coat to fit, it will show the low shoulder. I think if you met me in person, you would not notice, but in a static photo it becomes quite evident.

HS, the jacket is not stretching or straining at the waist button by any means. It is hanging loosely. What you are seeing -- that "crater" -- is the result of fullness and the roll-through effect of the lapel cut.

Unfortunately, this coat -- like one or two others of mine -- does not seem to like the camera. "Imperfections" show themselves, like scratches in an old record. But personally, I don't care. I love the way the look in real life, and -- above all -- I love how they wear. I am willing to endure some negative iGent points for clothes that I enjoy this much.

Manton: be careful. You must have heard that old joke about the guy who visits his tailor to pick up a suit and complains about fallen shoulders, sleeves of the wrong length etc and with each complaint is urged by his tailor to alter his body shape to fit the suit so that when he leaves the shop he looks like the hunchbach of Notre Dame. He then meets a couple of old acquaintances, they chat for a few minutes then he hobbles off down the street. One aquaintance turns to the other and says "God, Charlie doesn't look well" to which the other replies "Yes but he's still a beautiful dresser." Ok I'm not giving up my day job.

[pvpatty]

Manton: be careful. You must have heard that old joke about the guy who visits his tailor to pick up a suit and complains about fallen shoulders, sleeves of the wrong length etc and with each complaint is urged by his tailor to alter his body shape to fit the suit so that when he leaves the shop he looks like the hunchbach of Notre Dame. He then meets a couple of old acquaintances, they chat for a few minutes then he hobbles off down the street. One aquaintance turns to the other and says "God, Charlie doesn't look well" to which the other replies "Yes but he's still a beautiful dresser." Ok I'm not giving up my day job.

I will have to try and remember that one!

[a tailor]

to help understand. go to ask andy, go on search, ask for cutting a low shoulder. scroll down to that title.

[Sator]

to help understand. go to ask andy, go on search, ask for cutting a low shoulder. scroll down to that title.

http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/Tuto ... oulder.htm