Brioni bespoke

[uppercase]

Yes, Mr. TimMureau, that is a beautiful tie worn by a friend of ours in his inimitable style.

I will investigate the tie's make and origin for you.

It could be a Caraceni. Maybe a Nicky.

In the meanwhile, here is another photo of our dear friend and his tie, with Sig.Carlo Andreacchio, headcutter for A. Caraceni, Milano and very elegant gentleman himself.






Getting back onto the subject of Brioni, my natural inclination would be to choose a specialist bespoke tailor rather than RTW house with a sideline in bespoke.

There are many merits to working with the owner of a small sartoria who has his name on the door, has been in business for many years and only does bespoke.

Hence, suggest that you also consider A.Caraceni, the acknowledged Milanese bespoke maestro.

[Guest]

I can just thanks uppercase for the any compliments he just directed to me ...

Well, I'm the guy in the white coat ... and yes that tie is one of my favorites, I have a coupe of friends who are writing in this site who are constantly tryng to steal it fro my wardrobe ...

This tie is a Marinella, I did it bespoke, in 7 fold shape unlined. Pattern is a medium sheperd's check in grey and blue.

I support uppercase suggestion, instead of Brioni, go straight ahead to A. Caraceni.

[Mann]

Gentlemen,

many thanks for your insightful answers!

I will, then, head to A. Caraceni on my next trip to Milan. Would it be appropriate to ask for a meeting with Sig. Andreacchio a few weeks in advance? I trust not being able to speak Italian is not an issue?!

How many fittings can I expect? (on Savile Row I had two (one for measuremnts and cloth selections and one forward fitting). The suit was then sent to me, I wore it a few months until my next trip to London)

Thanks again.

[uppercase]

A. Caraceni
Via Fatebenefratelli 16
First Floor
Milano, Italia
Tel.: 00 39 02 655 1972

Both Maestro Mario Caraceni and Sig. Carlo Andreacchio speak English; Mario speaks French as well.

I had at least 6 fittings, if not more.

If you are coming from Germany, I would plan for several trips to Milano in order to complete your suit.

It will be worth it.

They only accept cash. 50% down deposit. Base price was Euro 3,300 last year.

I suppose that they could send the finished suit to your home however you would need to work out the details personally with them. I took delivery of my suit at Milano.

Be patient with the process; they work slowly and deliberately.

I can't say how long it will take from measurement to completion; this depends on your schedule as well as theirs. But allow at least 3 months.

Mario Caraceni was always present at the fittings; but if he is not, ask for him to attend; having him conduct the fitting is invaluable.

Finally, when you are in the area, be careful of strange men wearing Panamas and sunglasses.

[JamesT1]

[quote="uppercase"]
Finally, when you are in the area, be careful of strange men wearing Panamas and sunglasses.

And men with half of their faces blocked out.

[Mann]

Thanks a lot, uppercase.

Everything you describe sounds wonderful and I will share the process of getting my bespoke A. Caraceni suit with the London Lounge.

[sartorius]

Mann - I stumbled on this when searching through posts on Caraceni. Did you ever get to Milan and visit them?

[rjman]

Finally, when you are in the area, be careful of strange men wearing Panamas and sunglasses.

And men with half of their faces blocked out.

"Eyes without a face..."

Seriously, while it's difficult to tell anything meaningful from pictures of a garment, the shoulder and the roll appear very nice -- and you sound very happy with the coat. Kudos!

[BirdofSydney]

They only accept cash. 50% down deposit. Base price was Euro 3,300 last year.

Ought one really to be getting about Milan with some 1,500 Euro in cash? I should make sure to carry it in bundles, in a hard-sided briefcase...

[Frog in Suit]

Ought one really to be getting about Milan with some 1,500 Euro in cash? I should make sure to carry it in bundles, in a hard-sided briefcase...

....which is why a suit with many pockets (back pockets with flaps and buttons on the trousers in particular) is most useful.

Frog in Suit

[storeynicholas]

FiS - but won't wedges of cashes spoil the line of the suit? Lumps and bumps all over the place.
NJS

[Frog in Suit]

FiS - but won't wedges of cashes spoil the line of the suit? Lumps and bumps all over the place.
NJS

One spread the wads of notes into as many pockets as possible. The trouser's back pockets will be hidden by the suit's skirts, anyway.
I admit there are limits to the theory; the Euro has helped the Italians, Spaniards, Belgians and French, for instance: less bulk.
Frog in Suit

[storeynicholas]

Ha!
NJS

[Mann]

Sartorious,

despite all the constructive feedback from LL I opted against the Caraceni experience - solely for logistical reasons. Going to Milan three or more times for a suit just did not make sense to me.

Instead, Thomas Mahon made me four suits, he had done a few for me before. He came to see me in Germany and I also met him in London (where I go on business regularly). I think his suits are excellent and they get more comfortable over time. His coatmaker, Paul Griffith, is really first-tier in my view and the draping cloth around the shoulders make my coats fit like sweaters (sort of). They represent the sort of understated elegance that I enjoy.

Mann

[alden]

Dear Mann

You made an excellent decision going with English bespoke tailoring and Thomas and Paul make nice clothes. Would you be able to post a picture or two of your suits?

Thanks

Michael