Shorts for summer

[mrwynn]

Believe it or not, J. Press has some interesting short options. A very nice pair of glen plaids in cotton and a pair of super 90's charcoal grey.

[iammatt]

Thanks Dopey. I like the tan colored ones very much. I will keep an eye open.

[couch]

Reviving this thread to post some photos (in belated response to a request by Shredder) of my nearly threadbare early '80s-vintage Banana Republic Gurkha shorts (which cost about $30 if I recall) and my recent ('07?) and lightly worn pair purchased from Rubinacci in London, costing nearly ten times that. Both pair are pictured with tabs buckled at the middle hole.

Here is the BR version--slightly darker, more olive cast, and originally heavier twill. The cloth is so worn it will not hold a press without starch, but it shows the cut:




Notes:
- Brass grommets on the tab eyelets to minimize wear
- Buckle cross-section is rounded, minimizing wear on tabs
- Buckles permanently sewn to tabs
- Tabs/buckles are set well back; shorter tabs do not stick out to the sides
- Front rise is about an inch higher than the Rubinaccis so shorts sit higher on waist
- Button fly
- Reverse pleats
- Overall length about an inch longer than Rubinaccis
- Hip pocket flaps angled more steeply, almost triangular in shape
- Felled seams at sides and pocket, etc. are topstitched about 1/4" from seam

Here is the Rubinacci version. The stitching is a bit finer and more even, but not dramatically so:





Notes:
- Machine sewn buttonholes on tabs for buckles
- Buckle cross-section is cupped and has more drag
- Buckles are attached to tabs by a button and can be removed when washing
- Tabs/buckles set more forward, making a thicker-looking waist
- Tabs are longer and excess tends to flap out to sides
- Front rise about an inch shorter than BR versions so sit lower on waist
- Brass zipper fly
- Forward pleats
- Overall length about an inch shorter than BRs
- Hip pockets more rounded
- Felled seams topstitched about 1/16 from seam

To my eye the basic cut of the Banana Republic versions is closer to the archival photos I've seen of real Gurkhas. If I commision an MTM pair, I will retain the rise and length of the BR version. Both pair (contrary to my recollection) have two pleats rather than darts above each hip pocket, so I'd retain that detail. I usually prefer forward pleats in front, so I'd probably go with the Rubinaccis on that point, but it would look much better if the tabs and buckles were set further back on the sides as in the BR version and there was less excess length to the tabs--both things that would, along with the higher rise, combine to keep the waist from looking thick.

I was living in Austin in the early '80s and wore these shorts after work and on weekends practically every day in the (very hot) summer. The roomy cut makes them very breezy and cool, and gives you great freedom of movement. A real classic and deservedly so.

Here is a source--I haven't seen these in person--for reproductions of the UK Khaki Drill 1941 Pattern short (without crossover straps):



and the UK KD 1949 model, closer to the Gurkha short:



http://onlinemilitaria.net/shopexd.asp?id=3270

Finally, though I think the AA illustrations show the more relevant way of wearing these, here are two vintage shots, one of actual Gurkhas, the other of Tommies wearing both versions above--note that some have adjusted the length by rolling cuffs:

[shredder]

Many thanks for this comprehensive post, couch. I had not even considered the position of the buckles, so your post is very valuable just for that bit!! I agree that it is preferable to have them more to the side. The detachable buckles on the Rubinacci pair is thoughtful. I also like the wider waistband.

The grommets are probably a sensible feature, but stitched holes seem more pleasing to my eyes. Or, no holes at all, perhaps:



I never thought that there would be so many details to consider for a pair of shorts...

[J.S. Groot]

I prefer the more tapered leg opening of the Rubinacci's as well as the design of the waist band, but I prefer the higher rise on the BR rendition.

Also, thanks for the link. I'm sorely tempted to try these out.

[couch]

The grommets are probably a sensible feature, but stitched holes seems more pleasing to my eyes. Or, no holes at all, perhaps

I agree, and I had not seen a detail photo making the use of a friction buckle clear, so thanks for that. I wonder where one might source an appropriate one?

I also like the wide waistband. It's actually about the same width on my two pair, but the R looks wider in proportion to the rest of the garment--another photo illusion!

[J.S. Groot]

Okay, I bought the shorts. I will share my impressions with you when I receive them.

[Aristide]

Perhaps this linen version may be of interest.

http://www.jlpowellusa.com/product/39_6 ... Short.html

[shredder]

I agree, and I had not seen a detail photo making the use of a friction buckle clear, so thanks for that. I wonder where one might source an appropriate one?

I also like the wide waistband. It's actually about the same width on my two pair, but the R looks wider in proportion to the rest of the garment--another photo illusion!

I would think those buckles should be readily available from a trimmings supplier, but sometimes it can be really difficult to find things that seem rather obvious... I might actually insist on it in the future if I can somehow get over my concern: what if I have to make a mad dash to the loo, as the snugness of the buckle must require more time and effort to unfasten? That said, I still think that it is the most visually attractive option.

I never would have guessed that they are of the same width. Proportions: not to be underestimated, I suppose!!

[carl browne]

Try:

http://jlpowellusa.com/product/39_62-PA ... Short.html

Might work.

[couch]

Shredder,

Now that I look closely again at the photo you posted, I wonder whether the friction-buckle tabs shown there might be part of the battle jackets rather than the shorts. What do you think?

[shredder]

I think you might be right, couch. It is not obvious on the Nepali chap but looking closely at the Sikh chap, I think you might very well be right. That said, I might still do a cut and paste of that bit, transferring it from the jacket to the shorts.
s

[Costi]

Excellent shorts, couch! Last summer I've had 6 or 7 pairs made of various weights and colours of cotton and linen, all cut like this:

As soon as summer returns, I'll take some pictures with them on - like you write, the wide leg makes them very breezy and comfortable to wear. I noticed that the heavier the cloth, the better they look and wear. The pair pictured is in a heavy cotton twill. The wide waistband and the high rise make them sit perfectly on the waist all day long, without any tendency to ride low.

[kolecho]

Costi,

The shorts look very interesting. How wide is the waistband? Do you have a scan of what looks like buckles in the front of the waistband?

[Manself]

I notice that Silvermans, the London army surplus warehouse, sells some gurkha shorts. I haven't tried them, but I'm tempted:
http://www.silvermans.co.uk

The shorts that I have tried, and would recommend, are by Pakeman Catto & Carter. The ones I've tried are the drill shorts (the linen ones are made of too-light cloth). They don't have a cross over waistband, but they are an elegant shape (elegant for shorts), sit high on the waist not down on the hip, and the prices are reasonable.
www.pakeman.co.uk