The Clothes of a Gentleman, 1922

[storeynicholas]

Abit further fetched - perhaps, since she seems to refer to some part of the coat itself - moire silk lapel facings instead of just corded silk? But 'ribbon' is a strange word to use, unless it refers to ribbon edging around the collar of a DJ - as The Godfather had at the beginning of Godfather I.
NJS

[RWS]

I think you've got it, NJS! It would make sense (as some fellows might have thought that such an edge treatment was as sensible with evening dress as with other), unlike a ban of decorations or spectacles.

[Noble Savage]

Avoid satin or velvet cuffs, moiré neck ribbons and fancy coat buttons

The standard silk damask buttons which were common on formal clothing of the previous era went out of fashion at this time.

In your jewelry let diamonds be conspicuous by their absence. Nothing is more vulgar than a display of “ice” on a man’s shirt front, or on his fingers.

There something particularly patrician about this distain for ornamentation.

[couch]

I agree. Miss Post is basically purveying the British line. By 1922, after a brief upturn in 1919-1920, the export-based UK economy was in a deep recession, with unemployment reaching 17 % by some accounts. Combine this fact with the nearly a million men dead in the war from all causes plus a considerable loss in the civilian population from the influenza epidemic, and garishness was perhaps more than usual seen as in poor taste. Military officers, peers, diplomats, members of hunts, civic and guild officers, and so on had their finery, some bejeweled or at least embroidered with bullion thread, for use on proper occasions. But a gentleman would not wear such things on the street or to public events. I believe at this period even the shoe buckles and sword fittings for court dress were of cut steel rather than jeweled.

Miss Post's attitude towards the ebullient experimentation of American clothiers of the day in all its democratizing and entrepreneurial ferment is harsh, but it would not be too long before Apparel Arts arrived on the scene to help form its direction along lines she probably found more tolerable.

[old henry]

Great post, couch. Wow 👍🏼👍🏼

[h. richard]

Interesting.

[Noble Savage]

"However, let us suppose that you are either young, or at least fairly young; that you have unquestioned social position, and that you are going to get yourself an entire wardrobe."

"Your full dress is the last thing to economize on. . . . Avoid satin or velvet cuffs, moiré neck ribbons and fancy coat buttons as you would the plague",

My reading is that she is indeed referring to neck ribbons — the kind that medals are worn on. Remember, that in America in 1922, if you were "fairly young," had "unquestioned social position," and were wearing full dress, you probably also belonged to a social club, and being young it might be a college club.

Many clubs issued medals worn on ribbons.

It is at club events that one would wear full dress — the dinners and so on. Post thought it was vulgar (as had been debated throughout the 1800's in America) and that the social distinctions that were signified by these club medals were not something desirable.

[old henry]

I have heard of a cutter from the old days of A&S. Has anyone heard of Colin Harvey ?

[GSC]

I have heard Edwin DeBoise speak of him often. Maybe he would share a comment or two.