Burberry trenchcoat

[castiglione]

Dear Hector. Fact is I do not know. But since I was considering Ventile until you trashed it I just felt compelled to ask. When it rains it is never too cold. Otherwise it snows. But the idea of treating a cotton does not seem very enticing. So I am sorry I pestered you I will stick to my Burrberry trenchcoat in winter and my italian raglan Cerrutti, not so different from the raglan Michael cuts. Though, of course, just RTW. Thanks again.

[hectorm]

...the idea of treating cotton does not seem very enticing.

Eventually any garment would have to be re-treated with a durable water repellent if you want to keep it 100% waterproof. But not initially (the cloth will be ready), and later, not more often than you do it with your Burberry (if you ever do it). So, it´s not a big hassle. Just hang it, spray it and let it dry. You will see how wonderfully the rain drops form beads and run off the garment.
Cheers.

[castiglione]

Hector, dear. I have not sprayed anything in my life. The only thing I spray without mercy are the moths. Upon second thought, yes, I sprayed long ago some suede shoes. Talking of another shoes. Since you seem so professional and serviceable what would you cut with a cavalry twill dark navy in the realm of 1025-1060 gms? (John Hardy) I am not an Admiral, just in case you wonder

[hectorm]

Dear Castiglione, thank you.
I begin by saying that "professional" I'm not. At least not in sartorial matters. I'm just a caveman who has developed an intense interest in clothes and style. This has led me to irresponsibly offering quick advice on the topics, which could be seen by kind people like you as "serviceable". But please don't be fooled and beware.
Regarding the dark blue cavalry twill: if you are correct on the weight, at around 1 kilo, that's a beast of a cloth.
A rather informal and unique outwear garment comes to mind. Something that will be subject to hard wearing and to weather inclemency. Something that had a martial echo but without too much severity.
A gorgeous 10x5 peacoat with huge turn up lapels, for example (taking in consideration that you're not an admiral yet).
Or a hooded Montgomery (toggle coat).
Or, if you are into something sleeker, what about a belted fly front wrap around (robe style) overcoat with raglan sleeves and a shirt collar.
Your choice.

[Costi]

[castiglione]

Hector said
"A rather informal and unique outwear garment comes to mind. Something that will be subject to hard wearing and to weather inclemency. Something that had a martial echo but without too much severity.
A gorgeous 10x5 peacoat with huge turn up lapels, for example (taking in consideration that you're not an admiral yet).
Or a hooded Montgomery (toggle coat).
Or, if you are into something sleeker, what about a belted fly front wrap around (robe style) overcoat with raglan sleeves and a shirt collar.
Your choice."
Well, Hector to be a caveman you look strangely civilized to me. And pro may be not but certainly more knowledgeable than me by far. Pray: What is a 10x5? Of course I am not an Admiral and will never be. The only waters I ply are those of the English language...and not like an able user since I said "serviceable" when I should have said "obliging". I am sorry to reiterate my ignorance but I have no idea what is a "belted fly front wrap overcoat". Here you are, my ignorance is your glory. Enlighten me, please, obliging friend!
As to Costi´s pic is simply overwhelming. Who would not like to have a coat like this? Provided the guy´s body height and weight- not my case. Alas!
The fabric in question is a John G. Hardy´s cavalry twill 100% wool 1025-1085 gms number 2602.

[hectorm]

Castiglione, I´m sure that -like Monsieur Jourdan who didn´t know that he could write in prose- you know all this but maybe by a different nomenclature.
A classic peacoat is double breasted. 10x5 simply means that it has 10 buttons (5 in each column) and the 5 on your right can be buttoned-up. When you button up 5, you can fully turn up the wide lapels around your neck, nape and chin. It´s really warm and cozy. If you´re not that tall (i.e. you don´t have much room for all the 10 buttons on your chest and they will look kind of crowded there), then maybe you would like an 8x4 instead. It might sound more complicated than it really is. Just look at any of your DB jackets and you´ll figure it out. I own a bespoke DB peacoat in heavy Melton cloth (similar in weight to your cavalry twill) and it´s one of my favorite informal coats. I really think you would love to have one.
Fly front means basically that when your overcoat is closed, you can´t see the buttons. They (or the zipper) are hidden/covered like in your trouser´s fly.
A wrap around style overcoat looks a lot like a robe. You can nonchalantly cross both sides overlapping them in front without buttoning it up and then tie it with a belt of the same fabric around your waist just like a trenchcoat (or a robe). If you want, you can button up the overcoat, still use the belt or go without it. I also own one of these, it´s not bespoke but a cashmere blend RTW by Ralph Lauren with a shirt collar and raglan sleeves which make it very comfortable and sporty. I get lots of compliment on it. However, that heavy cavalry twill of yours might be a bit stiff for this type of garment (I would say the same for the elegant topcoat posted by Costi).
Don´t forget the Montgomery. It would be a great piece. The heavy twill with the diagonal fabric construction is the perfect cloth for it.

[castiglione]

Thank you for your benign approach on names of garments. Not so sure. I know a peacoat is DB. And for me in the dark navy of the "In which we serve" fame. (Though the movie was black and white). As to the buttons (thanks) five is definitely too much. Four is kinda ok. I know the peacoat- it has always been part of my wardrobe. RTW and sometimes even military surplus- reality rules. I have no intention of going bespoke. My coats are formal. When they are not, they are not bespoke. Again, reality check.

Costi´s topcoat is impressive. I keep it in my archive as a distant dream. But not in cavalry twill. As to "fly front wrap up", yes, I admit I knew the kind of coat only I did not how to call it. Some friends of mine wear them. But I hate belts. This is why I ended up adopting horkas for summer and changshangs for winter. If trousers go with the belt so much the better as it is the case in the Eastern coats I mentioned. No way. And of course you are right. Cavalry twill is too rigid a fabric.

As to the Montgomery this is for me a camel colour coat. Call me a loyal looking back nostalgic. I cannot help it. In any case you proved to be obliging, gentle and forgiving. Very much beyond the usual standards in a caveman. Much thanks and in Monsieur Jourdain´s language, au revoir.

[hectorm]

I know the peacoat- it has always been part of my wardrobe. RTW and sometimes even military surplus- reality rules. I have no intention of going bespoke. My coats are formal. When they are not, they are not bespoke. Again, reality check.

I hate belts.

As to the Montgomery this is for me a camel colour coat.

No peacoat, no Monty, not too many buttons, formal, no belt, great for the heavy twill, and no need to be a basketball player.

[castiglione]

Impressive! I save it for future endeavours. Thanks, caveman.

[loarbmhs]

I've had two Burberry trenchcoats in my life. The first lasted 20 years, and I've had the 2nd for nearly 10. It's their classic green, all-cotton model, with a button-in cashmere/wool lining, if memory serves me correctly. As far as I can tell, they don't make it anymore--every current coat I've seen from them is an overly designed, pitifully short model best left for someone who is happy with a coat lasting one or two seasons. If you want to look like Humphrey Bogart, suggest you try to find a used one like mine somewhere. Otherwise, forget it--or wait until they come to their senses and re-introduce their classic model.

[Pssst]

Once upon a time.... Burberry's used to be great company....

[hectorm]

Great magazine page, Pssst.
You should send it to Mr. Christopher Bailey.

[Pssst]

[BirdofSydney]

What say you all to patch pockets on an overcoat (wool, of course)?

I passed up a lovely example because I didn't like the pockets, but I am coming to regret it...