Fabric weight & underwear

[Costi]

In my experience, wearing longjohns is an argument IN FAVOUR of heavier cloth: if it's lightweight, it will tend to cling to the longjohns, especially if the latter are cotton (you cannot line your trousers 360 degrees all the way to the ankles...!). Moreover, if you're on a tight budget, it makes sense to have trousers made that LAST longer, not lightweight cloth that wears out quickly, particularly if you wear it three seasons a year!
Beyond that, a suggestion: silk longjohns! I found them first in a shop in Copenhagen (hello, Gruto! ). It's not ladies' stockings stuff, it's a thicker, denser, sturdier weave. They feel great on the skin, they are thin (compared to cotton) and even my unlined trousers slide effortlessly over them. I'd say thermal comfort is better (no overheating, especially when going indoors, as for a cup of Gluehwein) and you don't sweat as much; even if you do, sweat evaporates quicker - unlike cotton, that tends to keep the moisture (when thick) and become cold and unpleasant on the skin.
Merinos (mentioned above) is another excellent option - even a full body suit, as I have one. It's just a little scratchy, but you can live with that for the gain in warmth. Great with cords and tweeds - you can often do away with the need for an overcoat if you have one of these against your skin and a heavy tweed suit on top (plus gloves, hat and scarf, of course).
Sorry my answer came so late, I only read this now...

[Costi]

I thought that it was generally accepted not to wear underwear when wearing bespoke as it disturbs the line.

No disturbance - THAT is a good line!

[uppercase]

I thought that it was generally accepted not to wear underwear when wearing bespoke as it disturbs the line.

Dear Uppercase,

do you mean this?

Indeed, your photo above is one solution though a bit dated.

For the modern gentlemen, also consider Spanx:

http://www.spanx.com/category/index.jsp ... 0for%20men

[NJS]

I recall a shirtmaker once (maybe indiscreetly) mentioning, in relation to length of shirt tails, that he had a [named] famous customer who 'went commando' and had his shirt tails cut extra long to supply the difference... so to speak.
NJS

[davidhuh]

Indeed, your photo above is one solution though a bit dated.

For the modern gentlemen, also consider Spanx:

http://www.spanx.com/category/index.jsp ... 0for%20men

Dear Uppercase,

interesting suggestion .

I will nevertheless stick to my featherlight cotton underwear and live with the risk of a disturbed line. I have no aim to go through as a Ralph Lauren model. And if by some unfortunate situation, my misbehaviour would be challenged, I could still quote Hardy Amies: "... to achieve the nonchalance which is absolutely necessary for a man, one article at least must not match..."

cheers, David

[NJS]

Quite right, David. The best example that I have ever seen of this had nothing to do with pocket squares - but a brightly spangled snuff handkerchief (a very practical item) stuffed up a sleeve.
NJS

[davidhuh]

Quite right, David. The best example that I have ever seen of this had nothing to do with pocket squares - but a brightly spangled snuff handkerchief (a very practical item) stuffed up a sleeve.
NJS

Dear NJS,

this is funny - actually, the sleeve was officially approved storage place for the snuff handkerchief in the Swiss Army
But I assume they are no longer that religious anymore about tenu. Mores have changed considerably since my time

Cheers, David

[NJS]

Quite right, David. The best example that I have ever seen of this had nothing to do with pocket squares - but a brightly spangled snuff handkerchief (a very practical item) stuffed up a sleeve.
NJS

Dear NJS,

this is funny - actually, the sleeve was officially approved storage place for the snuff handkerchief in the Swiss Army
But I assume they are no longer that religious anymore about tenu. Mores have changed considerably since my time

Cheers, David

Well, it's a great touch. I have seen it done by someone at the Bar and by the late Ian Carmichael. I used to do it too, sometimes; in the days when I needed to wear clothes.
NJS

[JCH]

As for underwear, I'm reasonably sure that in the thread called A Simple Question under Features and Articles our Mr. Alden recommended, among other bits of his usual world class advice, a man should start dressing in the morning by putting on his best bespoke boxers.

[Costi]

As for underwear, I'm reasonably sure that in the thread called A Simple Question under Features and Articles our Mr. Alden recommended, among other bits of his usual world class advice, a man should start dressing in the morning by putting on his best bespoke boxers.

Which may be of the Emperor's brand