Morning Suit - advice sought please

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

Concordia
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Mon Jan 22, 2024 12:21 pm

I would think that nailing the accessories will put you ahead of most. A really good shirt, with classic waistcoat and not-cheesy tie (plus excellent shoes) will extinguish most of the red lights that alert people to your having rented. And because a shirt with white collar can be worn on other occasions, the only dedicated expensive purchase would be waistcoat and tie. Then, if you are a difficult fit, the trousers.
davidhuh
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Thu Jan 25, 2024 5:15 pm

Excellent advice, Concordia!

Cheers, David
bond_and_beyond
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Fri Feb 07, 2025 12:40 pm

Hi all,

I am in the process of commissioning a morning coat for my own wedding.

I am looking for a good black cloth in the 12 - 14 oz range. I understand that traditionally the cloth must be in a very narrow herringbone. My tailor also, as someone in this thread noted Doug Hayward agreed with, that the standard "featherweave" herringbone used for morning coats makes it look like a "rental".

Therefore I am humbly asking for some advice and tips for good, traditional cloth to choose here. A plain weave? A very large herringbone like that DoW wore to his own wedding? Or an even more narrow herringbone?

Suggestion of type of cloth, and even more specific bunches, would be most appreciated.

BandB
couch
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Fri Feb 07, 2025 11:05 pm

No help on cloth sources, I fear, but let me offer congratulations on your upcoming marriage. May you and yours have a long and flourishing life together!
davidhuh
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Sat Feb 22, 2025 6:04 pm

bond_and_beyond wrote:
Fri Feb 07, 2025 12:40 pm
Hi all,

I am in the process of commissioning a morning coat for my own wedding.

I am looking for a good black cloth in the 12 - 14 oz range. I understand that traditionally the cloth must be in a very narrow herringbone. My tailor also, as someone in this thread noted Doug Hayward agreed with, that the standard "featherweave" herringbone used for morning coats makes it look like a "rental".

Therefore I am humbly asking for some advice and tips for good, traditional cloth to choose here. A plain weave? A very large herringbone like that DoW wore to his own wedding? Or an even more narrow herringbone?

Suggestion of type of cloth, and even more specific bunches, would be most appreciated.

BandB
Dear BandB,

suggest that you look into Smith Wooten's formal wear bunch. Personally, I would stay away from black and go grey.

Cheers, David
Concordia
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Sat Feb 22, 2025 7:23 pm

You mean Oxford grey to substitute for black with striped trousers, or mid-grey pick & pick? King Charles wore something of the former to his own wedding, and the latter to everyone else's.
davidhuh
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Sun Feb 23, 2025 4:36 pm

Concordia wrote:
Sat Feb 22, 2025 7:23 pm
You mean Oxford grey to substitute for black with striped trousers, or mid-grey pick & pick? King Charles wore something of the former to his own wedding, and the latter to everyone else's.
Dear Concordia,

both options work. King Charles' mid-grey is great in my eyes, formally correct but distinctive. Oxford grey to substitute black is a more cautious approach.

Cheers, David
Concordia
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Sun Feb 23, 2025 7:29 pm

I believe the real issue is how formal one wishes to be. The medium grey is suitable for the Royal Enclosure and a summer wedding, although I've read people trashing the King for dressing down at someone else's occasion. If you are surrendering the Japanese Empire, black with striped trousers is definitely the thing.
Bwooster
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Fri Feb 28, 2025 10:52 am

For what its worth - The King’s more formal morning wear set up (the one he wore for his wedding to the Queen) features a black tailcoat with a plain - not herringbone - weave and black silk piping. I think it looks very good especially when he wears a shirt with a light coloured body (always with a white collar, however).
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