To bent or not to bent?

[andreyb]

Gentlemen,

I must confess that I'm a bit bented. I constantly try to overcome this bad habit, but so far it is still with me.

I've just completed my first serious bespoke adventure (please see "Perdells, Fitting, Pictures" thread elsewhere), and as suggested in numerous books and posts, I tried to be relaxed (that is, unconciously a bit bented) during fittings.

When I finally get my jacket, I noticed that the back fits superb when I'm relaxed. But it has more wrinkles when I'm trying to be dead straight.

So, perhaps I made a mistake of being over-relaxed during fittings?

Andrey

[jklu]

It sounds like the coat follows your natural stance, as it should. Having a coat cut for a straighter posture may force you to change to fit it, but rarely, if ever, does that work. One should feel comfortable and natural in one's clothes, especially those crafted to fit one's body.

[alden]

Andrey,

You engaged a tailor not a magician. A tailor can only fit you for one stance, not two. If you normally are a bit stooped then you did well to be fit for a bent or stooped stance. But, if and when you straighten up your stance the jacket will show symptoms of an ill fit.

What most people do is have the jacket fit and made to a stance they rarely assume, the erect, military stance. They are then surprised when they bend that the suit wrinkles a bit.

You can't have it both ways. And you made the right choice.

Very nice jacket.

Cheers