Perdells, Fitting, Pictures

[andreyb]

Gentlemen,

If my memory serves me well, some of you asked about an English tailoring company named Perdells. I have some information and some (yet unfinished) experience that might be of interest to you.

Perdells is a typical "one cutter - owner" type of company. Their sole cutter and owner is Fred Cogdell. He told me that not only cutting but also all the tailoring is done by him, with the only exception being buttonholes -- they are made by a buttonhole lady.

I ordered a sports jacket from them; this order is still in progress. I had first fitting; there are pictures of that fitting:
http://public.fotki.com/andreybokhanko/ ... s_fitting/

The pictures are not very interesting -- after all, this is just an ordinary first fitting.

Still, if you have some wise (or not so wise -- doesn't matter) words and/or observations to share with me, I would be very grateful for them.

Andrey

[RWS]

This promises to be a very handsome odd jacket, Andrey. I've only two comments on it.

First, I tend to wear my coat sleeves a bit longer than, it would seem, you might. My next commission may have shorter sleeves, but I don't like the appearance of much more than a centimeter of shirtcuff below the cuff of the coat. Is the appearance of more shirt desireable in Muscovite circles, or your personal preference -- or did I not look carefully enough at the photographs you referenced?

I was surprised to see hacking pockets! Do you envision wearing the jacket principally in the country, or, again, is this a fashionable style in Russian cities -- or your own preference? The hacking pockets, combined with an excellent fit, should certainly make a statement! I'd not be surprised if you top the best-dressed list for the city. Omnia vincit LL!

[BenedictSpinola]

Andrey,

The coat is shaping up nicely - I like the cloth very much and find the hacking pockets entirely appropriate - you should get alot of wear out of this garment.

Spinola

[T4phage]

Andrey, your arm seems to be fighting with your sleeve a bit.. the pitch may be off.

[andreyb]

Gentlemen,

Thank you for your comments.

Regarding Moscow style and my adherence to it. Think of something boxy, shapeless, with very long sleeves (when only tips of one's fingers are shown) and very-very long trousers (with an "accordeon" of excess cloth at shoes). This is a typical Moscow style. Sorry, but this is not my cup of tea. And I have no problems of being a little different.

Why I choosed hacking pockets? I wanted to get a genuine, honest-to-the-last-stitch hacking jacket. The only exception is double vents -- I decided to get them instead of a single one after reading an excellent thread started by Collarmelton (http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/viewtopic.php?t=142). And yes, I plan to wear this jacket mostly in a city.

T4phage -- probably you are right here. Being a neophyte, I leaved all such particularies to Mr Cogdell -- he noticed some problems at the shoulder area, and marked it for correction.

Andrey

[BenedictSpinola]

Andrey,

Whether or not the pitch is off depends upon where you have your arms. If the stance you've adopted in the photos is normal for you, then the pitch is a little off, and the sleeves need to be rotated.

Spinola

[andreyb]

Gentlemen,

Perhaps I already used too much of your attention for this small bespoke project. Still, for the sake of completness, I took a liberty of adding this final chapter to the story.

I finally got my sports jacket, and here it goes:

http://img359.imageshack.us/img359/2680/front3vq.jpg
http://img399.imageshack.us/img399/2070/lside8qa.jpg
http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/2601/rside8ey.jpg
http://img243.imageshack.us/img243/893/back6be.jpg
http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/9826/front26kk.jpg
http://img5.imageshack.us/my.php?image=cross7up.jpg

Gents, what do you think? If you have something to say, please do! There are many deficiences (even I can spot some), so, please name them all -- it would be only good for me.

Andrey

[Bespoke1214]

Hello Andrey what a beautiful jacket it is I am just interested if you could possibly present me with the price of such a jacket from Perdells if you do not feel I am rude for asking but I am very keen on purchasing a similar jacket.

Thank you

Regards

Neil

[Richard3]

Ver nice jacket!
Great fit overall, just one small thing: On the second picture it seems as if the vent would open slightly. But that`s probably a result from a certain posture, as there is no opening on the other side.
As I do have a problem with opening side vents sometimes it is one of the fist things I check.

[Prince Barry]

An extremely nice jacket. Thank you for posting the images. You appear to be slim like myself, so that type would really suit me.

[andreyb]

Gentlemen,

Thank you very much for your nice comments.

Bespoke1214: I know that our founder doesn't like pricing discussions on the forum, so I've answered your question by a private message.

Richard3: Probably this opening is indeed due to my posture. I don't have any problems with this.

Gents, I hoped for a bit of critique on the fit... For example, there are lot of creases at the scies and around them -- I believe there should be much less of them if the fit is good. Am I correct?

Andrey

[RWS]

I would think so, Andrey. Perhaps you held your arms a bit unnaturally during measurement and fittings (I try always to maintain my usual posture); or, perhaps, the cutter simply erred. I would have expected less wrinkling.

Still, quite nice for a first effort. Your shoulders and back are particularly smooth.

[manton]

I believe the sleeve issue could be corrected by simply removing the sleeves, rotating them rearward by perhaps 1/2" or even less, and then re-setting them. Not impossible by any means, but time-consuming.

[BenedictSpinola]

Andrey,

I like the coat very much. I think that the sleeves could possibly be a little slimmer, but then again you may prefer them as they are. The cloth looks fantastic.

Spinola