Bestetti bespoke photos.... no jeans this time!

[T4phage]

To preclude furthur discussion on the colouration and hue of my jeans.. they are not present this time!

I've created a new photoalbum for some of Riccardo Bestetti's bespoke shoes and can be found in the photojournal in this link: http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/gallery/Bestetti-Bespoke .... somehow I can't change the folder name.

However, here are some of the shoes that are found in there:

[pchong]

Wow, these are very beautiful. I particularly liked the first monk strapped pair.

[Nexus]

Oh dear, they are absolutely stunning! Those oxfords and monks are wonderful...

And I am trying so hard to resist the craving for bespoke shoes as long as possible...

[RWS]

Nice monks! And this from a man who's not particularly fond of monkstrap shoes.

[whittaker]

That is the first truly desirable pair of monks that I've seen. Simply beautiful.

[lancepryor]

Jan:

Thanks for the pics. These are very interesting shoes; as noted by others, the monks are particularly attractive.

A few observations/comments/nitpicks. First, I find the first pair of captoes to be a bit awkward in dimension, in that they seem to have a very long cap, relative to the vamp -- if you compare it to the cap in the second cap-toe, the latter seems to have much better dimensions. Second, the use of pegging at the waist, rather than sewing, is interesting and fairly unique in bespoke shoes; this feature is quite common amongst US cowboy boot makers, but I've not seen it in shoes. Third, Mr. Bestetti seems to cut the outsole in horizontally from the edge in order to hide his stitches -- the UK makers I'm familiar with cut it in at an angle from the bottom of the sole; the latter is bit more challenging, but I'm told it is a bit better at ensuring the flap doesn't come loose. And finally, I must say I am a bit underwhelmed by the finishing of the soles and the pegging. In comparison to the UK bespoke shoes I've seen made, these seem to lack that final few degrees of effort that make the best bespoke shoes so beautiful (at least before they are worn, at which time all that effort is largely erased). I've also seen pictures of pegging that is more even and consistent in alignment -- again an aesthetic nitpick, but what the heck....

I'd love to get your personal opinion of what you saw; you've seen the bespoke product of many (most?) of the world's finest bespoke cordwainers, so your comments would no doubt be quite enlightening.

Thanks Again,
Lance

[T4phage]

Hi Lance,

As to the 'balance' of the design, Mr. Bestetti allows the client to specify almost (if not all) the detailing of the shoes, so the captoe with the longer 'cap' may have been a spec. by one customer as opposed to the other with the shorter 'cap'. In fact, you can design a shoe yourself, and if Mr. Bestetti will realise it for you (although he will express his own opinions regarding your design!) but all design imbalances is yours alone.

Considering the 'pegging', he can do either a pegged waist or (as the photo above shows) welted from waist to waist. I asked him about it and he says that he prefers the pegs for strength. As Janne on the other site commented, it may well be stronger.

... Third, Mr. Bestetti seems to cut the outsole in horizontally from the edge in order to hide his stitches -- the UK makers I'm familiar with cut it in at an angle from the bottom of the sole; the latter is bit more challenging, but I'm told it is a bit better at ensuring the flap doesn't come loose

I don't understand what you mean . I am not as well versed as you and Cusey and Rolf regarding terminology.

Regarding the soles: I saw in his store several that had the 'half black' type finishes, some with the 'Ducal sole' type finishes (the one that Vass is currently emulating), and some with the ones above. Again it is what the customer chooses. I chose one with a natural type finish.

My own opinion. Well I liked them enough to place an order ! He is able to do a wide range of 'styles', from the utterly sublime to the totally unexpected (Timberland type boots!). His last design and especially his chisel toes really have to be seen in person to be fully appreciated - in fact some of the chisel nosed shoes in the showroom are as beautiful as any Cleverley I own or have seen. I agree that in some areas of finishing he may not do as 'perfectionist' a job as some English and French shoemakers, I think this is a result of being basically a one man show - he not only creates the last, but cuts the leather, stitches it together, welts the shoe, lasts the shoe, adds the sole, etc, etc. Unlike the others who use specialised outworkers for various stages. However, in some areas of detailing he is as good as or better than some other makers; in areas such as some edge finishing/detailing on some visible areas where the inner lining meet the outer leather. I don't have pictures unfortunately. His finishing of the upper again varies upon the customer's desires; I saw some incredibly beautiful brown antiqued shoes that would put the standard antiquing on EG to shame, and would make Kiton's finest offerings look garish. As for his skill as a lastmaker, the first trial shoe that I fit was very very very good! In fact, if only laces were put on them I would have been tempted to walk away with them. It was incredibly comfortable with no tightness nor excess, but he found that a millimetre here and there would make it better! So I await my next trial shoe with anticipation.

[Lookingtoimprove]

And I am trying so hard to resist the craving for bespoke shoes as long as possible...

I can only echo this sentiment...

T4:
Did you see any round-toed shoes in the workshop with a less pronounced chisel? My taste for a chisel-toe isn't as developed as that of some others... .

Mark

[Tony]

Hi Jan

The monks and slip-on are a great shape and the cut of the patterns are beautiful.
I would be proud to have have made these myself.

Love the toe shape very much and the polishing is beutiful.

Tony

[T4phage]

Wow, high praise indeed from the LL's own Tony Gaziano!

Mark, he does do round toes... lots of them including Giona's.

[Lookingtoimprove]

Mark, he does do round toes... lots of them including Giona's.

*** Slapping own wrist *** Pay attention when you're looking at those shoe pictures!

Thanks T4, there may be hope for me yet...

Mark