Vol. I No. VI (Sept 05') CONCERNING SHOES from AA / ESKY

[jcusey]

So what does the resulting grain look like? Parallel likes as in Edward Green's willow calf?

Yep…that’s it. In the article above, these are the two types they are referring too.

Thank you. I'm still trying to visualize exactly how this process is performed, but this is very illuminating.

[Concordia]

CONCERNING CORECTNESS…

From observations made at the principal style centers, a few races about correct shoes. Shoes for town wear should be of simple design, with wither plain toe caps or perforated toe caps. They are correct in either dark reddish brown or black. Tan calf shoes with winged tips and slightly flanged are meant for country wear and although they are worn in town, are never considered part of the well-dressed man’s town kit. Light brown are meant for country or sports wear, where the atmosphere is more colorful—and are usually seen in brogue lasts, wing tips and flanged soles. Black shoes should be of simple design—never in grain or brogued to suggest a sport outfit.*[/i]

This is critical and should be remembered that the mere substitution of Black color in leather does not necessarily make for a proper town shoe but the design and the last must be in accordance also. As such, speaking of rules (Very Strictly here) the full brogue Black calf shoes is “incorrect” for proper town wear and certainly inappropriate for anything in the evening. This also goes true for other shoes (designed) of sporty origins. See below for further info… at text accompanying the illustrations.

Once again, thanks for a most thorough and informative post.

Question on black shoes, which was triggered by thoughts of the a LL Tweed suit, but also the practical reality of odd twill or flannel trousers in charcoal or Oxford grey. For such ensembles, black is really the correct color for shoes, but the average town cut is arguably too sleek to blend well with rougher fabrics. So-- does one adapt black calf to somewhat less urban designs (starting with the Cleverley quarter-brogue, and moving out through the EG Monmouth or Dover), or is it a reasonable option to use textured black leather--scotch grain, willown grain, etc-- in a more suit-friendly design such as a punch-cap? Clearly the latter would never be entirely "correct" town wear, but neither would a tweed glen check except perhaps on weekends.

Put another way, what does one wear in the country when brown doesn't really cut it? Is there a proper place for black wing-tips after all?

[alden]

Prefer a dark brown calf or cordovan like EGs "Dark Oak" or a Dark brown suede like EG's "Mink." Mink is a dark brown that is almost black and is a perfect choice.

[manton]

I agree about mink. Just picked up my first pair. It's a great color. Not my first choice for suede, but if you have one or two lighter shades already, check it out.

[Concordia]

Those can work-- with the dark grey twills I'm wearing today, I have on a modified EG Coniston in walnut grain, and have used cordovan Norwegians. And I have on order EG Cadogans in dark oak that might stand in well when they're not being paired with lighter greys or tan.

But while those do warm up the palette somewhat, I still would prefer a solution that was black, especially if I were to wear a black/white (grey) sport jacket. Somehow, the introduction of brown at the bottom of a composition in black and white seems not quite right, or at least, not right all the time.

[TVD]

Or stick with black and try boots: a good Jodphur or Chelsea may be a bit rakish, but sometimes that is a good thing! Jermyn IIs are another possibility. Or extremely plain (no broguing etc) side elastic shoes a la Cleverley, possibly in crocodile. I would prefer military spit polish to matt or artificial surfaces.

[dopey]

CONCERNING CORECTNESS…

From observations made at the principal style centers, a few races about correct shoes. Shoes for town wear should be of simple design, with wither plain toe caps or perforated toe caps. They are correct in either dark reddish brown or black. Tan calf shoes with winged tips and slightly flanged are meant for country wear and although they are worn in town, are never considered part of the well-dressed man’s town kit. Light brown are meant for country or sports wear, where the atmosphere is more colorful—and are usually seen in brogue lasts, wing tips and flanged soles. Black shoes should be of simple design—never in grain or brogued to suggest a sport outfit.*[/i]

This is critical and should be remembered that the mere substitution of Black color in leather does not necessarily make for a proper town shoe but the design and the last must be in accordance also. As such, speaking of rules (Very Strictly here) the full brogue Black calf shoes is “incorrect” for proper town wear and certainly inappropriate for anything in the evening. This also goes true for other shoes (designed) of sporty origins. See below for further info… at text accompanying the illustrations.

Once again, thanks for a most thorough and informative post.

Question on black shoes, which was triggered by thoughts of the a LL Tweed suit, but also the practical reality of odd twill or flannel trousers in charcoal or Oxford grey. For such ensembles, black is really the correct color for shoes, but the average town cut is arguably too sleek to blend well with rougher fabrics. So-- does one adapt black calf to somewhat less urban designs (starting with the Cleverley quarter-brogue, and moving out through the EG Monmouth or Dover), or is it a reasonable option to use textured black leather--scotch grain, willown grain, etc-- in a more suit-friendly design such as a punch-cap? Clearly the latter would never be entirely "correct" town wear, but neither would a tweed glen check except perhaps on weekends.

Put another way, what does one wear in the country when brown doesn't really cut it? Is there a proper place for black wing-tips after all?

Concordia:

For the moment, I have found what I consider an ideal potential solution for your situation. With dark gray heavy flannels or twills, I have been using a shoe that I heretofore could not find a use for - a plain-toe whole cut black calf blucher with double leather sole. After having been bought, they sat unused in a desk drawer for about six-months. One rainy day I pulled them out to avoid ruining another pair of shoes, and realized they are perfect for textured cloths that want a black shoe but are otherwise calling for something stouter than a sleek town last. I have been using them frequently this winter, most often with gray trousers and blazer, but sometimes with a gray/blue lambswool glen plaid three-piece DB suit. I have one suit on order that they might also look right with (as would a sleeker shoe).

This is a partial illustration of what I mean, but mine are calf and on a less blobby last and have a breast-to-breast regular Goodyear welt rather than the 360 degree storm welt shown. You need to do some mental photo-editing to really get the idea. Sorry I don’t have a better illustration.

[Concordia]

Dopey:

Thanks for that idea. I do have a pair of plain-toed bluchers (probably also sourced by EG), but those are just on the edge of what you're talking about. My feet are large enough not to be flattered by and endless expanse of smooth leather. But a slightly different last, a wider sole...

I also notice that you used plain calf. Is textured black really so friendless? Whither the shark?

[TVD]

Artificial grain, yes, completely friendless! Pigskin, crocodile, peccary, other exotics: only my finances prevent me from experimenting a bit more. And no, I don't think that includes bullfrog. Somehow the image of one crossing the road comes to my mind, and puts me off.

[manton]

Ed Hayes has a pair of black pigskin monks that are very nice.

[DD MacDonald]

Concordia,

Two thoughts - I did not see the mention of Burgundy as a color above. I have a pair of antique-burgundy Connistons from Greens that are wonderful with grey flannels and whipcord. The blucher construction and storm welting take them out of the running to wear with a city suit, but they work well with flannels and tweeds for the city, the country, and those in between situations. They were my first Greens.

Another thought is Green's "willow pattern" leather. I have a pair of EG Monmouths made in dark oak willow grained leather, heavy-welt with a dainite sole. The texture of the leather keeps ths shoe from taking on too high a polish which works to advantage in a country setting.

DDM

[Concordia]

I do have some dark burgundy cordovans (Aldens).

The EG Monmouth looks to be a most useful "in-between" shoe, and I've been thinking hard about adding that. The willow grain Dark Oak certainly looks good and is doubtless useful. My question was really that if one were to get this model in black, would it be out of bounds to go for a textured calf (willow, Scotch grain or the like) in preference to basic box calf.

[DD MacDonald]

Concordia, The Monmouth might work better than a plain shoe as it has some "life" to it and would not likely be confused with a formal shoe. Finding my pair on my feet today and myself at home in my office (with the all important digital camera in the drawer), I've posted my shoes in an act of unselfish vanity.



As to color, I have seen black willow and it looks quite good, a touch more elan than black scotch grained calf. If you wanted to go brown, Green's has been very good about offering color variations on their MTM. I have seen some seriously dark, dark oak that would pass as black in anything but outside light.

I had the shoes done up in a 606 last with a dainite sole and a "weavy welt", the more elegant decision would be the 888 if your feet can take it or look at the rounded toe lasts if you want to go more 'rural".

Best,
DDM

[HappyStroller]

Another great article, thanks to Etutee.

It is interesting to learn that the most formal foot wear to go with Morning Dress is the black dress boot.

Can it be used with the Stroller?

Are there any RTW brands currently available? I would love my Morning Dress to look as perfect as possible.

:
Here is a complete shoe collection that should be suffice the needs of most men except the very specific sport activities, which require particular kinds of shoes. So starting from Top to bottom and left to right….here we go…



PATENT LEATHER PUMPS

Patent leather Opera pumps for formal and semi-formal evening wear. See the 2nd last shoe “Patent leather Oxford” for more detail. These had a long vamp & a dull grosgrain bow. It should follow the best English tradition in the way of last.
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BLACK CALF OXFORDS
:
Many men these days use this black oxford for their evening wear needs also. While it is not in the best of taste to wear it with evening wear…here is what you can do to modify the look a bit. If special ordering this particular shoe, order it without the toe-cap or even better use a “whole cut”. Then if it is desired for evening wear….simply change the laces to flat silk ones and viola! You are closer to the correct evening footwear than you think.
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BLACK DRESS BOOTS

The “grand daddy” of all modern shoes in terms of formality. The “Most” formal day time foot wear you can (or could) possibly opt for….recommended for Formal daytime wear only. There is a smaller oxford version of this, which is equally correct in its use. Pictured here in black calf with fawn colored box cloth uppers. Other correct colors for uppers are; grey, ivory, biscuit, and white (for weddings only & used to be worn by groom when the DB vest was of off-white or white color). The color of the upper portion often matched that of the vest, but not always.


PATENT LEATHER OXFORDS

The most correct shoe (along with pumps) for formal evening wear. Perfect with either semi-formal (black-tie) or formal (white-tie) evening wear. These shoes usually (back in the day) had a high Cuban sole and high instep. It is best to wear this oxford with flat silk laces, if you can find them. Patent leather is the most traditional, however many men opt for plain calf due to the fragile nature & the look of patent leather. Even rarer is the use of plain black “Russia Calf” treated with the birch tar oil to give it a very distinctive shine, not to mention a unique aroma. Note that this shoe “correctly” speaking does NOT carry any toe-caps or broguing of the sort.

I think while we are at it let me mention something else also. These oxfords are “LESS” formal than pumps NOT more. In the matters of formality the pumps precedes the oxford shoe, whether in plain calf or patent leather. However, the velvet slip-on is indeed less formal than the evening oxford, and therefore best reserved for in-house use or at one’s club. For something truly unique and imaginative…try the opera pumps in black velvet with a grosgrain bow although it is Highly unlikely that you will ever find this article in RTW shoes.
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[Tampan]

Hi Happy,

I've been looking into the same thing, for the same reason. I've found an RTW boot that has a cloth upper, and thus resembles a dress boot in the way my suit resembles a stroller. That is, it's a compromise for utility.

http://www.zappos.com/n/p/dp/19280170.html

It's not as elegant as Etutee's example, but they do have tweed in them. Unfortunately I haven't found any in my size, and with just a week to go I'm not holding my breath. They also come in brown herringbone.

Cheers,
Tampan