Scenes from re-building a wardrobe: Challenging the master

[belimad]

I am taking a break from posting about my Sicilian adventure for an urgent news flash:

As you know I've been working with Old Henry on a few suits, now known as the "F U Lapel” series
I am so happy with the work Frank has been doing, and I asked him a couple of weeks back what would he consider a challenge, something that would take his skills through the paces. He told me “let me think about it”, and after a few days we came up with the idea of the “57th St. suit”, a wink to the old school of Henry Stewart, with a healthy dose of FU lapels thrown in for good measure.




We looked at some old pictures of DeNiro in Untouchables for inspiration, debated on Dugdale vs Lessers (Dugdale won), and went ahead with it.

The challenge was accepted by the master, and the master delivered. Without further ado, I give you the “57 St., FU lapels” suit. On it's way to London from Upstate NY.







More pictures once the coat and I meet in London.

[L.deJong]

Interesting stuff!

[old henry]

Michael is going to inform us on the history of this cut. I know that Henry Stewart brought it to New York City in 1939. It was known in NYC as 57th St suit. Rope sleeve , strong shoulder , nipped waist, high vents. Henry Stewart, Bill Fioravante, Tony Maurizio, and the great Toninno Christoforo made his astounding Italian version. Im happy to have known them all.

[alden]

Michael is going to inform us on the history of this cut. I know that Henry Stewart brought it to New York City in 1939. It was known in NYC as 57th St suit.

In the 1930s tailors around the world were influenced by the cut of the "London Lounge" suit and its most famous proponent F, Scholte who launched the military inspired style in the late 20s. A slightly extended, strong shoulder with drape was characteristic of the original style that was copied, modified and exported all over the world by tailors wanting the real London look throughout the 1930s. The drape of the original Scholte style was eventually modified out in favor of a cleaner look but the strong roped shoulder remained along with the nipped waist of the traditional London suit. And that timing coincides with Henry Stewart's 1939 introduction of his version newly christened as the 57th St. suit to Manhattan.

And Old Henry, in my opinion, has always been influenced by the 30s style that was passed onto him through all the great tailors who were his teachers and mentors. The suit pictured above is another beautiful example of this intemporal masculine style.

I am looking forward to seeing the finished product.......again! Well done by both of you!

Cheers

[gherrmann]

Jacket looks great! That's a proper sharkskin if ever I saw one.

[belimad]

We interrupt this program to bring you an urgent update: This wonder of nature just came out of a box here in my hotel in Madrid:



The picture is horrible, and the jacket needs a press, which it will get as soon as I'm back in London, but I felt I had to immediately share this with this group. Of all the marvelous coats Frank has made for me, I think this is his best work yet. Chapeau, Frank - Challenge conquered, with flying colors!

[Screaminmarlon]

Love the beautiful shoulders and strong sleevehead. This is not a suit for the indecisive

[old henry]

Ooooooooooooooo. Screamingmarlin...”Not a suit for the indecisive”. WOW. I’m stealing that as if now. Thank You perfect