First bespoke commission

[old henry]

Waiting on astons coat

[aston]

Won't be for a while. Need to find time to get some shots done and then upload.

[old henry]

Aston, I know you have beautiful coats. We will use this as an opportunity to teach this young gent how things should be so that he is not throwing money away on ill fitting MTM.
Frank

[L.deJong]

Update time, got my second commission in today.
Sorry for the crappy photo's, there is some rimpeling just beneath the collar but other than that it's a good coat.
Trousers will follow, they will get another shorten and some adjusting at the waist (lost some pounds).




I think it's much better than the first coat. I'm a bit relieved and just wait for the trousers...I think Old Henry will approve of them.

Have a nice eve.

[old henry]

Simple, subtle, handsome, L.
I really like it. I believe the back needs to be squared just 1/4". But that's here nor there. It's a very satisfying coat to look at. It is charming tailoring. Wish I made it. Collar is beautiful. All else too. And a top picked center seam and all around and chest dart ??? Wow. Pride in work
F

[L.deJong]

Thank you Frank.

After your comment I looked at the pick stitching (I find that very unimportant, but it looks nice), and indeed it's all around (including centre seam and chest dart).
I wore the coat today, to wear it in properly, and after a whole day of wear the ripling under the collar is a lot less apparent.
I know it's normal that a bespoke coat needs some wear so it can settle in, but I didn't expect such a dramatic improvment

Now I cannot wait for the trousers to appear at my doorstep. Keep you guys updated.

[old henry]

Yes it's beautiful. Can't wait to see it with pants.

[L.deJong]

So this topic title could better be named different because here is my third commission:









While the first two commissions had some flaws, and that was partly my fault as I wasn't standing correctly.. this time it looks like the pattern has ben dialled in.

Thanks to a suggestion of Frank I got the 'high-armhole for trousers' fixed.
And while I don't felt any difference my tailor said that I will definitely feel it when I sit down.

Anyway pretty nice so far.

Some adjustments where needed:

Jacket:
Armholes will be made a tad higher and a bit smaller.
Sleeves will be made one cm shorter
Some fullness at the back will be taken care off.

Trousers:
The waistband will be made smaller
Length one cm shorter, I suggested it myself... but looking back at the pictures I messaged him that it was perfetto:)

Fabric:
Town and English classics bunch from Dugdale

So what did I learn so far?
Well, the first of all I studied my posture for some time in the mirror (in a period of 3 months) as to make sure that I stand naturally (without muscle tension etcetera, I can definitely say that that's the most important part).
Second of all, I'm not a tailor. So I made a lot of suggestions. Because I felt that some things weren't right. At the second commission, I asked for higher armholes. But to be fair they were already high enough.
My tailor wasn't keen on it... but I pressed him to do it. STUPID. That's the reason that my second suit doesn't fit me as I would have liked.
This time I again asked for higher armholes, but I made sure to tell him that he had to do it the way he saw fit. So he didn't really raise the armhole but made it a bit smaller. That way I got the movement I wanted.
You can see in the last picture that the armholes are pretty high already.

[old henry]

It looks great. Too high an armhole is just that...too high. And stand taut at your tailor. Don’t shlump. If you shlump at your tailor you will end up with a short front. Pants are perfection. Don’t make your tailor jump through hoops. It can be deadly. Several of my customers have never been found.

[alden]

Don’t make your tailor jump through hoops. It can be deadly. Several of my customers have never been found.

+1


Now a few things are starting to make sense.....

Rumor always had it that Luca Brasi, reputed gangland figure, mysteriously disappeared after telling his young tailor in Manhattan how to make his bespoke bullet proof vest.

And Jimmy Hoffa, who had complained to the same tailor about the lack of construction in his bespoke suit wound up with a perfect fit in a cement one.

All you young guys, bespeaking your first suits, don't fall into the trap of micromanaging your tailor!....or else.

You have been warned.

[old henry]

One jackass ( a famous LL maven ) tried to explain how he wanted his canvas made. I nodded and said “oh of course “. Today he is walking around with ready made canvases. A fate worse than death. It was Raphael’s idea. We had such fun.

[L.deJong]

At least say: 'you are the master, just do as you see fit'.

I do it that way now, and I never get disappointed with the decisions he made. (take it or leave it).
Bespoke tailoring is an art form. When you order a painting do you tell the painter how you want it done?
Well, you give him some suggestions and tell him what kind of things you are looking for. But the painter will make the painting.

[old henry]

Exactly Sir. Some customers want to tell the artist how to mix the paint. They want him to jump through their hoop. They want to gain his craft. They will then be the ultimate maven / expert dazzling all on Ask Andy. And at sartorial gatherings while sipping single malt.
Raphael Used to say “they all want to be mavens” as only he could say it. I am very protective of my beautiful craft. Keep out.

[old henry]

In days of old it was a grand honor for a customer to be allowed to even peek into the work room. I allowed my Golden Age LL customers into my shop to watch me build their coat. For one customer I made him the most beautiful, original style, 1930s drape coat from a beautiful old Lesser windowpane. And true to the old original drape I gave it a very fitted armhole and a perfectly cut piped sleeve. This jackass however decided he wanted a drape sleeve. And jackass that I was , I cut him a new top sleeve and made it a drape. Ok. No big deal. Later I found out that he was all over The LL and Ask Andy that “I demanded Shattuck change the sleeve”. This belittles me and my craft. It puts me in his pocket. It’s a feather in his cap. I know this type and I deal with them “Like a cleaver deals with meat”
As old Mr. Ragusa told me while making slicing motions on his wrist “He doesn’t want a suit he wants your blood”. A Tailors work room is sacred. If you toy with my craft you’re head will be guillotined.

[L.deJong]

In days of old it was a grand honor for a customer to be allowed to even peek into the work room. I allowed my Golden Age LL customers into my shop to watch me build their coat. For one customer I made him the most beautiful, original style, 1930s drape coat from a beautiful old Lesser windowpane. And true to the old original drape I gave it a very fitted armhole and a perfectly cut piped sleeve. This jackass however decided he wanted a drape sleeve. And jackass that I was , I cut him a new top sleeve and made it a drape. Ok. No big deal. Later I found out that he was all over The LL and Ask Andy that “I demanded Shattuck change the sleeve”. This belittles me and my craft. It puts me in his pocket. It’s a feather in his cap. I know this type and I deal with them “Like a cleaver deals with meat”
As old Mr. Ragusa told me while making slicing motions on his wrist “He doesn’t want a suit he wants your blood”. A Tailors work room is sacred. If you toy with my craft you’re head will be guillotined.

I get what you mean. It's no fun when people say that.
I'm always sensible when talking to my tailor.

We will see what the end product entails. I at least know that it will be much better than the second (or first) time as this time I did not input any of my 'thoughts' about how things should fit.
That's definitely a good call! LESSONS LEARNED.