As you folks might remember, a bit over a year ago I came to you for advise on how to “urgently” build up a wardrobe, as I found myself in a new job after years of wearing informal clothing, and after losing about 100lbs, which rendered my old wardrobe useless (post here)
Much has happened since: I found 2 great tailors I work work regularly now: Frank (aka Old Henry)in Upstate NY, who has been creating beautiful masterpieces that I just love to wear - you've seen them here, and Russell from Graham Browne here in London, who has help me put together a number of options for my day to day at the office.
In the process, I've also had some good work done by John Kent of Kent, Haste & Lachter, Edwin Deboise of Steed, both in London, and Joaquin Fernandez Prats of Langa in Madrid. All fantastic experiences that, combined with the almost daily “teachings” I get from Frank have taught me a lot about the art of creating a suit that adapts not only to one physique, but to ones personality as well.
Yet most of these tailors are close or firmly within the English tradition. And I was still curious about the other side of the argument - the Italians. Lately, here and elsewhere, there's been a perceived deterioration of the quality of their work, yet I couldn't believe generations of tailors had simply given up. I was willing to spend some Euros to confirm or discard this theory.
Since my real boss (the wife) had selected Sicily as our Easter break vacation spot, I quickly started some research, which led to Sartoria Crimi, of Carmelo and Mauro Crimi (father and son) as the safest bet, given their online presence and ease of communication (which over the internet happens in English, even though once you arrive not much of it is spoken)..
Over the course of a week I had the opportunity to interact with them and have not one but two coats made. It was a fun, beautiful process, with father and soon working as a team, with an army of experienced coat makers and finishers “hidden” in the back of a second story apartment in Palermo.
I'll write down the experience in a few posts, that I'll share with you in the next few days.
Scenes from re-building a wardrobe: A Sicilian Adventure
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- Location: Milan, Italy
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Looking forward to this new charter of your adventure in bespoke!
excellent news, I look forward to reading about it!
Day 1:, Tuesday morning.
We arrived in Palermo from London around lunch time. I had been in conversation with Mauro Crimi (the son) over facebook for about 3 weeks. We had discussed cloth (I would bring my own), logistics (how many fittings, when) and price (very attractive price point, I would say).
I picked up the car from the airport, punched Sartoria Crimi's address into the GPS, and got going. A short drive into Palermo and through the Politeama neighborhood led me to the Crimi's place, on the second floor of an old, nondescript building.
Upon entering, Mauro greeted me and my family, offered coffee (and ice cream for my daughter!), and introduced me to Carmelo (his father). He showed us into the front room, and in a mix of broken English and (very) poor Italian we got down to business.
I handed over the cloth (the LL Alden and a nice, light Caccioppoli), discussed the style I wanted for each coat with Carmelo (Mauro serving as a translator of sorts), they took my measures, and after 20 minutes or so Carmelo swiftly dissapeared into the back of the apartment with the measures, the notes, and the cloth.
Mauro instructed me to come back at the end of the day, between 7 and 8pm, for a first fitting. I was surprised that they could work so fast, to which he replied “Sir, we are a team of 5, and we are at your entire service!”
So we took off to wander in the streets of Palermo and fill our stomachs with delicious treats from the Ballaro Market.
During the day, Mauro would send me pictures of the progress being made.
The LL Alden:
The Caccioppoli:
We arrived in Palermo from London around lunch time. I had been in conversation with Mauro Crimi (the son) over facebook for about 3 weeks. We had discussed cloth (I would bring my own), logistics (how many fittings, when) and price (very attractive price point, I would say).
I picked up the car from the airport, punched Sartoria Crimi's address into the GPS, and got going. A short drive into Palermo and through the Politeama neighborhood led me to the Crimi's place, on the second floor of an old, nondescript building.
Upon entering, Mauro greeted me and my family, offered coffee (and ice cream for my daughter!), and introduced me to Carmelo (his father). He showed us into the front room, and in a mix of broken English and (very) poor Italian we got down to business.
I handed over the cloth (the LL Alden and a nice, light Caccioppoli), discussed the style I wanted for each coat with Carmelo (Mauro serving as a translator of sorts), they took my measures, and after 20 minutes or so Carmelo swiftly dissapeared into the back of the apartment with the measures, the notes, and the cloth.
Mauro instructed me to come back at the end of the day, between 7 and 8pm, for a first fitting. I was surprised that they could work so fast, to which he replied “Sir, we are a team of 5, and we are at your entire service!”
So we took off to wander in the streets of Palermo and fill our stomachs with delicious treats from the Ballaro Market.
During the day, Mauro would send me pictures of the progress being made.
The LL Alden:
The Caccioppoli:
Can we see the finished product?
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