Old Henry is back to his oldtailorways again and as you can see the result is pretty special. If you want to print out a photo of what a DB should look like, print this one and tape it to your refrigerator.
%oLrrJGQTuy4+6FHjWTOLA_thumb_9c0 by The London Lounge, on FlickrWhere to begin? Well, with the lapels. I think these are referred to by the Master as “f___ you” lapels for their imposing, in your face breadth. But it’s not the size of the lapels you need to look at, it’s the great balance. Start from the button point, and notice the rich roll that forms right from the get go, and grows steadily to a picture perfect, high set (correctly set) notch. For all you Bentley salesman out there, this is a real man's lapel. No curves, no bends, no fussing here.
The second subject of your focus should be the wide (correct) overlap and button set. I’ve been saying this for years, but most of you allow your tailors to straight-jacket you in narrow sets with buttons that are too close together. The top button on this DB is lodged on the other side of the North 40 where it belongs, not cramped right next to his cousins.
A great shoulder makes a great coat. And these shoulders are among the best I have seen.
So there you have it. The next time you look at a DB pay close attention to the balance of the lapels, the breadth of the overlap and button set, and the shoulder. If all of those things look anything like the example above, you’ve got yourself a great DB coat.
I hope this is going to an LL member and that we will see photos of it soon being worn in great Style.
Well done Old Henry!
Cheers
. Beefy high collar that works with those lapels. Perfect button placement. I only wish we could see it on the lucky owner and see the back as well.
I applaud you. And I thank you for supplying such good material for our first post after the LL upgrade.
, and I am sure you will. I look forward to seeing the pictures.
