Hilditch & Key bespoke

[rjman]

I'm not trying to be disingenuous, but could anyone give me an informed assessment? On the other fora a deranged lunatic pursued some sort of vendetta against them, but another, stable, poster uses them and calls them satisfactory. Do they shank their buttons in the bespoke? Are the shirts true bespoke or just MTM? Is there a difference in shirts ordered through H&K Paris (which enjoyed quite a bit of autonomy in the past) and H&K UK? Are they at all comparable to Charvet bespoke?

[RWS]

I purchased two dozen or so "bespoke" shirts from H&K London over the course of a very few years. Fabrics available for the customer include many that are better than those used in the RTW line; the workmanship is about the same as RTW (no truly shanked buttons, etc.). After persistent yet unsuccessful efforts to have a comparatively simple error remedied, I concluded that the custom-made shirts are really MTM rather than bespoke; and I've remained with Budd. (After glowing reports here, though, I'm interested in seeing what a certain American shirtmaker can do for me.)

[bry2000]

I inquired about bespoke shirts at the larger Jermyn St store about two years ago. H&K RTW shirts fit me OK, but not great, for a RTW product. When I tried on one of their RTW shirts and asked the H&K manager how a bespoke H&K fit would fit differently from the RTW, the manager indicated that he would not change much except achieve a better fit for the collar and cuffs. If I were to do bespoke, I would want a better fit than that so I decided to pass. I just did not think they would make the requisite effort to give me a proper fit. Bespoke H&K shirts are more expensive than those offered by Budd, N&L, Dege, among others. I am not sure the premium is justified.

RWS, I am interested in hearing more about your experience with Budd since I seldom hear about that shop and would potentially be interested in giving them a try.

Thanks.

[RWS]

Bry, I haven't much to say about Budd, having been with them only five or six years, but all of it good.

Custom-made shirts from Budd are genuinely bespoke -- not fitting just at collar and cuffs! The knowledgeable shirtmakers (who are personable as well as skilled) make informed suggestions but, in the end, try to reify the customer's own desires. (The suggestions are well worth considering: the nicest collar I have is one that my shirtmaker at Budd created.) The selection of cloths is smaller than that at Hilditch, but Budd will make from the customer's own cloth (perhaps Hilditch will, too; I never asked). The sewing might be a bit less regular than at Hilditch, but the difference is comparatively negligible.

In addition to making fine shirts, the shop carries sized bowties for formal and semiformal evening dress, gloves, and other items worth a look -- or two.

[andreyb]

RWS, is it possible to become a Budd customer, if one has only one week in London? Do they provide fittings -- if yes, how many?

Andrey

[RWS]

Budd is fairly fast, Andrey, perhaps because the company is fairly small. My first fitting was held four workdays after measurement, if I remember correctly (I did press a bit for speed, as I, as you, was short on time). The second fitting showed all problems (which were minor) had been resolved, and I actually took the shirt home with me less than two weeks after my first visit to the shop.

Budd has no requirement of a minimum order, though I generally commission two shirts at a time. Since that first order, I've gone to Budd, chosen the cloth and usually asked for a change or two in cut; the company then sends the completed shirts to me, within, perhaps, two months of my visit.

[rjman]

Interesting about Budd. Can you tell me if they shank their buttons?

[RWS]

Judging from the shirts I've received, the customer must ask that the buttons be shanked and must renew that request for each shirt; but perhaps he could simply state that he wants all buttons on all his shirts to be shanked.

[whittaker]

My first fitting was held four workdays after measurement, if I remember correctly (I did press a bit for speed, as I, as you, was short on time). The second fitting showed all problems (which were minor) had been resolved, and I actually took the shirt home with me less than two weeks after my first visit to the shop.

What is the process at Budd? Do they give you a sample shirt to take through a few wear and wash cycles? I'm having some bespoke shirts made at Turnbull & Asser at the moment and eager to compare experiences.

[bry2000]

What are shanked buttons?

[andreyb]

Budd is fairly fast, Andrey, perhaps because the company is fairly small. My first fitting was held four workdays after measurement, if I remember correctly (I did press a bit for speed, as I, as you, was short on time). The second fitting showed all problems (which were minor) had been resolved, and I actually took the shirt home with me less than two weeks after my first visit to the shop.

Budd has no requirement of a minimum order, though I generally commission two shirts at a time. Since that first order, I've gone to Budd, chosen the cloth and usually asked for a change or two in cut; the company then sends the completed shirts to me, within, perhaps, two months of my visit.

RWS, you are a lucky man (or a very good client, or both). When I visited Budd three weeks ago, there were some other rules.

First, there is a minimum order requirement, although quite small -- just three shirts.

Second, they absolutely refused to do any fittings. (By "a fitting" I mean a trying-on session with a trial shirt made from muslin or left-over cloth.)

Third, I asked them to make a first shirt in one week. Again, they refused.

Andrey

[andreyb]

What is the process at Budd? Do they give you a sample shirt to take through a few wear and wash cycles? I'm having some bespoke shirts made at Turnbull & Asser at the moment and eager to compare experiences.

A usual Jermyn Street process -- they make and send you the first shirt from the initial order (to wear, wash and agree with fit) and then make the rest.

Andrey

[RWS]

RWS, you are a lucky man (or a very good client, or both). When I visited Budd three weeks ago, there were some other rules.

First, there is a minimum order requirement . . . .

Second, they absolutely refused to do any fittings. . . .

Third, I asked them to make a first shirt in one week. Again, they refused.

Andrey

This is sad, Andrey. Tempora mutantur, I suppose; and I should be happy to have been "grandfathered in". Nevertheless, I do think Budd worth consideration by any man seeking a well-cut shirt in London.

Robb

[uppercase]

Leonardo Bugelli still makes a muslin try shirt and will fit your shirt over a number of fittings, as a bespoke tailor would.

I just haven't found that level of craftsmanship and attention to detail in London.

[whittaker]

I just haven't found that level of craftsmanship and attention to detail in London.

I'm envious. That is precisely what I'm seeking and I am not sure it exists in London.