Edward Green Shoes

[alden]

If 202D were to get down to the 82 width (but no narrower), it could solve every problem.

I have always found that one width change equals one thicker stocking change. If your 202E fits well with a mid range sock, trying it with a heavy wool sock will give you the feel of the same shoe one width down, 202D. You will notice the shoe feeling shorter with the heavy wool sock and a 202D is shorter than a 202E. So if you go down a width, you "may" have to go up a half size in length.

Cheers

[hectorm]

It seems that we have been running two parallel threads on narrowing lasts......
Shoe lasts are a tricky business. Width is only one general dimension. And last has also to do with shape, asymmetry, curvature, open or closed lacing, heel depth, instep and toecap height, etc. My feet are long and narrow and I can list some lasts that worked to (almost) perfection for me in the past. But I´m afraid it would be of little use for other fellows since I believe they served me well, more for their general shape than for their narrow width. Regarding specifically to Edward Green RTW shoes, I could point out –for the truly narrow feet- to the EG Chelsea last 202 in C fitting. It´s one of the most boring shoes ever but perfectly safe for getting married in them and I believe it´s one of the only two oxford models that EG still makes RTW in the unusual C width.

[Concordia]

Well, I retried some shoes today in London. I fit 82 11E perfectly except fo not liking the shape of the toe. Turns out that 202 11D is really quite good. Looks shorter but is comfortably snug through pretty much the whole upper.

Ended up ordering 11E Dukes loafer with an urban rubber sole reinforced with just a thin layer of leather. With luck, it will have about the strength of an Aldent LHS.

Also got a pair of Russia Calf/ Ridgeway shoes over at C&J.

[Sammyo77]

I too am an 8.5E and like others have found that Edward Green shoes fit me like no other RTW shoe. However, I recently purchased a pair of Halifax boots and they were a noticeably looser fit than previous pairs. Boots can be difficult for those of us with narrow heels so I had put it down to that but it is troubling to learn that it may be the result of a change in their approach.

[alden]

My latest for Winter 2018....

Alderley boots by The London Lounge, on Flickr

[Rob O]

Truly lovely boots Michael.
Incidentally anyone in London should be aware that Edward Green have just today commenced their summer sale.

[alden]

I would love to do a repeat of the LL Windsor shoe as a boot:

202 last, Rosewood Country Calf, Ridgeway sole, Storm welt, Pull Tab.....would be great but we would need 10 orders to do it.

windsoraa7 by The London Lounge, on Flickr

[VRaivio]

I apologise if this topic has been covered elsewhere.

I'm wondering about Edward Green's last 32. Their webstore does not list it, but it seems popular in several finer shoe stores of Asia.

I found this tidbit online:
http://uptowndandy.blogspot.com/2012/03 ... om-to.html

...but I cannot find the original discussion that the author mentions. So, does anyone here know more about this last? Is it truly the master last that all other EG lasts are versions of, and why has it been discontinued in their regular RTW range?

[Concordia]

I have a pair of 32 (probably pre-resin reformulation, so I'd want to try the new variant before re-committing). Also, come to think of it, a few of my Wildsmith shoes were probably EG 32s.

It fits me very well-- essentially, a sleeker 202 that fits nearly as well although not quite so precisely as the 82.

No idea why it is sold in non-UK/US markets only.

[alden]

The 32 last was a Heritage EG last that John Hlustik inherited when he took over. It was a long standing last used for Derby shoes and the Dover model in particular. The 32 is a narrower and shorter last than the 202 or 606. It was especially prized by Japanese men for this reason, and was a big seller in the mid to late 90s in Japan. It was not a big seller either in the US or Europe however because of its smaller dimensions. And it makes perfect sense, for this reason, that it's use is confined to Asia now.

The 33 was another heritage last from that time. Compared to the 32, the 33 last was wider and longer with a raised toe box. I have a few pairs of 33s and like them. I believe there was also a 34 last, but will have to check it in my collection of EGs.

[pur_sang]

This is a bit sad, especially given their price hikes, I will think they can continue the better practice. The worst is when manufacturers cut costs while raising prices, no?

Enough complaints, I am curious what will happen when I get my old shoes re-soled, presumably it was made on a wooden last, but now re-soled using bigger resin lasts? Can't imagine a good result.

I'm in love with my EGs as much as the next guy, but if things do turn this way, I guess it's an excuse to move on to throw them and move on. Given these shoes seem to last forever (with re-soling), it's always hard to find an excuse.

[alden]

Enough complaints, I am curious what will happen when I get my old shoes re-soled, presumably it was made on a wooden last, but now re-soled using bigger resin lasts? Can't imagine a good result.

I had three pair of EG shoes resoled last year and they turned out beautifully. All three were about 30 years old. Among them was a pair of black Berkeley derby shoes on the 88 last. At the factory, they said they had rarely seen such a beautiful shoe. It was made in 1986 or so. The other two vintage pair were a chestnut Dover on the 202 and a Limerick on the 606. (I think EG kept the old wooden lasts to do resoles.)

As it turns out, I did my Winter cleaning and polishing on my EG shoes yesterday. It's a ritual before the worst of the inclement weather sets in. Most of these shoes date from the mid to late 1980s, and I was truly taken by the beauty of them. The patina of three decades old leather is a sight to see. The shoes have been meticulously maintained, but it's the quality of the product, revealed over such a long period of time, that truly steps to the fore. I made good investments in these shoes. They were crafted in a time when a different ethic reigned. These were not disposables made to tame temporary emotions.

Cheers

[pur_sang]

Thank you Michael, great to hear regarding the re-soles and the nice patina shoes you have in your possession. My girlfriend is in constant disbelief how long I have owned certain things and they still look the part, it's a short time compared to you, but now most things I wear is coming up to 10 years. My EGs are probably 8-10 years old, but one have started to show some cracks/tears on the upper, my fault not theirs. I have tried and tried, but I don't know how to polish shoes, so I get others to do it, for this reason or another, I simply don't do it often enough.

[emde]

One has to say and take into account that the leather in the 1980s was different, simply due to the different way of farming back then. Farm animals these days are grown much more quickly, which probably also affects the quality of the leather afterwards.
At least, many shoemakers say that they do not get enough high quality leather anymore these days...

[alden]

My EGs are probably 8-10 years old, but one have started to show some cracks/tears on the upper, my fault not theirs. I have tried and tried, but I don't know how to polish shoes, so I get others to do it, for this reason or another, I simply don't do it often enough.

I did a series of videos with a master shoe polisher on Vimeo. They are still there and they will teach you how to maintain your shoes.

https://vimeo.com/7877812