Trousers

[old henry]

Exactly. It's all in the balance and cut. More cloth in the wrong place doesn't give ease and comfort. Pattern manipulation ( cutting) does. ( it's all in the old books. No mystery)
Proper "stride" in a pant pattern is most important for comfortable sitting. Also , pleat placement is very important. One pleat is fine.
Elastic suspenders are much more comfortable. Especially when you sit.

[L.deJong]

Small question regarding the rise of trousers supported by a belt.
Should you get a bit of a lower rise compared to say a trouser supported by braces?
I wear my trousers with braces 2cm (solids 1 inch) above my navel.
I have never commissioned a more casual trouser.
So I don't know if it needs some adjusting in the rise and if so how much lower (where should it be)

In this instance I have ordered a khaki cavalry twill (92% cotton 8% cashmere).
With double forward facing pleats, straight seam pockets. No rear pockets. 5cm (2 inch) cuffs.

[Concordia]

I find a belted trouser a bit below the navel makes more sense. The precise recipe will depend on what else your tailor does, and how exactly you are proportioned.

[old henry]

You can also drop the loops 5/8" below the top. This allows for a higher rise and puts the belt in the right place.

[HristoStefanov]

You can also drop the loops 5/8" below the top. This allows for a higher rise and puts the belt in the right place.

This is very (now I will use the dirty word) fashionable at the moment.
In the last 1-2 years a lot of people order such trousers.
Here some photos from Edward Sexton.
https://www.edwardsexton.co.uk/hollywood-top-trousers/

[old henry]

Of course, Edward Sexton. I hope this is now fashionable instead of the short rise skinny fit. His loops are dropped about 1". Thumbs up. He's got it.

[L.deJong]

I will not order a hollywood top trouser because I want something more discrete.
So I will just ask for a lower rise. (just around my navel, just above the hips).

Thank you!

[BirdofSydney]

Gents,

I have a fitting tomorrow, and I’ve been inspired to seek to persuade my tailor to try a sewn-in pleat/dart of the Oxxford variety.

May I prevail upon someone to post a picture of a well-executed example?

Is the preferred placement the same as a single pleat, ie below the inner braces button?

And, finally, how ‘long’ ought the dart to be: about 1 1/2 inches?

Thanks in advance!

-Bird

[old henry]

Bird, the placement is on the straight crease line starting, I'd say, 2-1/2" down from waist. And I wouldn't take more than 1/4" doubt, as it will puff out too much. You can get pretty much the same effect by giving 1/2" more leg. And a trim cut cancels out the whole thing. I'll ask Jeffery Dudich for more info.

[L.deJong]

So I got your advice, lower the rise...but my tailor didn't understand it correctly so he finished the trousers without a fitting. (he already made a lot of trousers for me, so not a dumb thing to do).
Now I have a really high-rise belted trouser, but I see (in old pics) that it was a common practice to wear a belted trouser high at the waist.
Think of Carry Grant/Fred Astaire. I, of course, am not that good looking but I hope it will be a look I can pull off

[old henry]

It's a great look.

[pur_sang]

I have double pleated trousers on all my suits from Caraceni and honestly you could never tell they are pleated. You get the comfort with the aesthetics. There is no excess material just bulging out etc. I like pants a bit tappered at the end am not personally a fan of full cut pants or large breaks at the shoe. For casual pants from them I went with a single pleat and same thing you get a beautiful line but no bag material. Its all in the cut.

A.Caraceni? If that is the case, I second that.

[pur_sang]

Michael, are you still a big proponent of Ambrosi? Surprised little have been said of him so far.

[L.deJong]

Like last time I want to show my bespoke trousers.
I will let you guys judge if the tailor did a good job.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BuHSy8BhuEP/

I also have some olive cords made up. I asked Andy (styleafter50) and Frank for some advice.
Alas, they didn't have experience with the Eskdale trouser bunch from Huddersfield Fine worsted.

But I can say that I'm pleasantly surprised, they are nice and heavy and have a great depth of colour.

[old henry]

They are really beautiful pants. And your tailor knows that the pleat should fall plumb. The line falls straight down and is not warping over to find center. The leg line, as from the side, is ample is comfortable. Also, you and Peter are trim young guys and you don’t need added functional cloth to give comfort when sitting SITTING or to make your pleats behave. But a lot of hefty ,sizable gents think they look good squeezed in YOUR pants. They don’t . Beautifully cut trousers and handsome cloth. Ya got style, kid.