Trousers

[Frans]

Alden, Frank, thank you for your feedback, it's much appreciated

Franz, those trousers would be better without pleats. If you want them tapered like that the line would be much better without pleats.

Thank you. I actually have a tapered pair without pleats made by the same tailor. However, I prefer deep pockets The pair shown has verrrry deep ones, I wouldn't get that without pleats and French pockets.

Is the bunching and waviness in the top half due to your lifting to take the picture or is it always there? It tells me, as I suspected, that you need more room in the top....just a bit. Is the waist measure right on, or a little small (after the Holidays. )
And how does the rise feel to you?

The bunching is partly due to lifting the arms. Actually, I lost some weight
The rise is perfect, the fit is very comfortable. I have had these trousers for more than 3 years and to be honest they've been the most comfortable pants I own so far. They will go back for a "sponge & press" soon, I'll address these issues then.

What do you wear 10-11UK? What is the measure at the cuff...looks like 17 cms. If so, you need 20-22 cms. I wear 11UK and the smallest I can go is 21 cms-22cms.

Size is 9.5 UK. The cuffs look rather narrow in the picture, but they measure 20.5 cm (8 inch something).
The suit trousers by the same tailor measure 22 cm.

The picture is cheating as far as proportions are concerned.
The mirror in that room was leaning against a wall, and a pic from a bird's eyes view will give some distortions. My seat looks wider than it is

But here we have young clients who are stunned by the concept who have clearly never been asked. And they are going to SR tailors. So they are just getting a stock MTM pattern trouser and that's it! And that's exactly what it looks like.

I'm not that young anymore, but thanks for the compliment

Mr. Morgan does not offer MTM at all, he's very categorical about that. He is devoted to passing on the most traditional tailoring crafts to younger tailors. I know both the coat maker and trouser maker personally.

This is the original model from the 1970s.


It's a very particular look. But to be honest I like it.

I agree, trousers in a wide full cut can look very elegant. I do not think you'll get them many places in London today.

A tailor in Slovakia cuts pants the traditional way, but then they look particular almost like waders these days too, no?
(not me in the pic)

[alden]

HI Frans

Well the first picture was deceiving after all, the trousers did look like a woman's model, following the current painted on uni-sex trend. The measures you give make sense as does the second picture. I like those trousers.

But give us the name of that Slovakian trouser maker please. That is a trouser! I might slim it down a nanometer but it looks like solid gold to me. Look at that taut line from waistline to cuff!!!! I have only known two tailors who could make like that and they are both pushing up daisies. When I used to say "line, line, line" about trousers, that one has LINE. I'll send him my pattern asap.

I know you guys like clothes that look like you've slept in them for weeks, but that taut line is just great.

Cheers

[Frans]

But give us the name of that Slovakian trouser maker please. That is a trouser! I might slim it down a nanometer but it looks like solid gold to me. I know you guys like clothes that look like you've slept in them for weeks, but that taut line is just great.

It is Maximilian Mucska in Bratislava. He has taught his 2 sons the art of tailoring. No experience with him yet.

See: http://www.mucska.sk/en
and more pics on his instagram: https://www.instagram.com/maximilian_mucska/

[alden]

It is Maximilian Mucska in Bratislava. He has taught his 2 sons the art of tailoring. No experience with him yet.

Oh Frans don't go there. It's not English! Its not Savile Row! None of the blogger pimps have written about him yet. Look at those waders. They are not in Fashion. No one is wearing them in Men's Vogue. And Bratislava? You have to be kidding, who would ever go there? East Europe? Its not even close to Mayfair.

Cheers

(A great trouser maker in Bratislava in Springtime. Its like a dream come true! I may never leave.)

[Richard3]

I also used a tailor from Bratislava once about 11 years ago. He saw clients some days a week at a legendary Viennese haberdasher. I still wear the suit; it`s no marvel in terms of handstitching etc but it fits well and so worth every cent of the EUR 1.100,00 (!) I paid for the suit with two pairs of trousers.

[Melcombe]

But give us the name of that Slovakian trouser maker please. That is a trouser! I might slim it down a nanometer but it looks like solid gold to me. I know you guys like clothes that look like you've slept in them for weeks, but that taut line is just great.

It is Maximilian Mucska in Bratislava. He has taught his 2 sons the art of tailoring. No experience with him yet.

See: http://www.mucska.sk/en
and more pics on his instagram: https://www.instagram.com/maximilian_mucska/

Good grief.

A round trip to Vienna from my local airport is cheaper than a 1st class day return train ticket to London.

Shame I can't speak Slovak, really ...

[old henry]

I have posted a draft for those trousers on Facebook should a member want to try them.

[Rob O]

Good grief.

A round trip to Vienna from my local airport is cheaper than a 1st class day return train ticket to London.

Shame I can't speak Slovak, really ...

They can cut beautiful suits, and if their instagram feed is anything to go by, speak excellent English too... a flight to Vienna from my provincial airport is beckoning too.

[Frans]

Shame I can't speak Slovak, really ...

They'll be happy to serve you in English too

None of the blogger pimps have written about him yet. Look at those waders. They are not in Fashion. No one is wearing them in Men's Vogue. And Bratislava? You have to be kidding, who would ever go there? East Europe? Its not even close to Mayfair.

I very much like the waders.... but you got me there. They're not fashion at all



A recent fitting in London. Same trouser model as the beige pair shown above.
Same cloth too, a 20 oz cavalry twill by Dugdale colour navy.

[L.deJong]

Love the trousers of Maximilian Mucska.
Only thing that keeps me from ordering something like that is the fact that I'm 21 yo.
So I wear pretty wide trousers already (22cm at hem).
But I have linked the photo's to my Italian tailor. Maybe he can create something like that, but I doubt it.
I have no Facebook, maybe old Henry can pm me the patterns? So I can show it to my tailor.
That would be really nice.

Regards,

[old henry]

Yes I will send. Check pm

[alden]

Yes I will send. Check pm

Well done Old Henry. Your willingness to help is very much appreciated by all of us.

Cheers

[HristoStefanov]

A recent fitting in London. Same trouser model as the beige pair shown above.
Same cloth too, a 20 oz cavalry twill by Dugdale colour navy.

Looks very nice!
I guess my legs are more ( ) shaped and thus more challenging.

[alden]

Frans,

Very nice. From what I see in this picture, its an excellent trouser cut. Neither too slim nor too full, just about right. And the line is good. Well done!

Cheers

[Jimmy9lives]

I have double pleated trousers on all my suits from Caraceni and honestly you could never tell they are pleated. You get the comfort with the aesthetics. There is no excess material just bulging out etc. I like pants a bit tappered at the end am not personally a fan of full cut pants or large breaks at the shoe. For casual pants from them I went with a single pleat and same thing you get a beautiful line but no bag material. Its all in the cut.