Advice wanted: re-building a wardrobe

[davidhuh]

Thanks David (and all) for your comments.
I tried suspenders, but my shirts to get all wrinkled very quickly or they bunch up on the back, so I gave up. Both suits have waist band adjusters, so no belt either. I will ask Russell to fix the trousers length. I dont like how I look when the trousers sit on my natural waist, at least with these trousers, and it’s something I’ve been discussing in my two interactions with John Kent. We’ll see if what he creates solves the problem, then I can hopefully replicate.

Dear Mariano,

allow me to comment again. Are your current shirts bespoke or RTW? RTW shirts tend to be too short, and with low raise trousers, the mess is a result. I'm afraid that side adjusters will never do a proper job on their own. They help a little, and likely work best when they help keeping trousers in the natural waist and this is also supported by body shape. Discuss it with Mr Kent. Another factor may be your past / current / future shape - you mentioned something. May be things should settle a bit first, before taking big decisions?

Wrt to shoes, I am a big believer in the barefoot movement, and since I adopted barefoot shoes my stance has improved considerably and back pain has dissapeared. Thus, I have decided I am not going back to regular shoes. I’ve looked at several barefoot brands, and the only one I found that has decent formal leather shoes is vivobarefoot, a UK brand which I really like. I’m trying to get in touch with the founder to see if I could order something more elegant, but for the time being their Lisbon model will have to do.

I understand. In my experience, weight issues, lack of exercise, unfortunate shoes and back pain often go hand in hand. If your current shoes do a better job, keep them for the moment. You may talk to a shoe maker at some point, ideally one who is also an orthopaedist. Mr. Jonathan Lobb for instance is one I can recommend.

Cheers, David

[old henry]

I love this fantastic discussion between David and Mariano.
Michael Alden explained to me that if you do not have well fitting custom shirts with enough tail and if your rise is too low your shirts will untuck ten out of ten times. Which is what David is saying. I agree also on what David and BB say about rise and suspenders. %100. I do not like to see the shirt peeking out below the button.
Russell did a beautiful job in my opinion.

[old henry]

Also if your shirt armhole is not high this will also pull out your shirt tail when you reach. Just like a jacket lifts.

[uppercase]

Looking good there brother Mariano !!
Keep it up and keep the posts coming.
Lots of interesting bespoke projects for you ahead.
Best.

[alden]

Also if your shirt armhole is not high this will also pull out your shirt tail when you reach. Just like a jacket lifts

Exactly!

Start your bespoke adventure, with good shirts.

Cheers

[belimad]

Exactly!

Start your bespoke adventure, with good shirts.

Cheers

I will post some pictures with my shirts from Madrid shirtmaker Langa - I would love to get your collective thoughts on what could be improved.

[belimad]

Frank and I just had the most fun fitting ever - over skype! I’ll let him comment on the technical details as I won’t be able to do the process justice.

[Rob O]

How intriguing, I'm fascinated to see how that goes...

[belimad]

A couple of wardrobe updates:

1. A better picture of Russell’s blue chalkstripe - we fixed the trousers’ length issue (I think).



2. A nice DB made by a gentleman by the name of Martin David from Shrewsbury that I found on eBay and had altered by lovely Aida who works for Franco Santoro on Kingly St. She is lovely and does great work. I need better pictures on this one, particularly the trousers which are ample and have pleats, two things I don’t particulary like in general, but in this case they work really well.


3. A one-button travel jacket and matching waistcoat I commissioned from Russell for my travels. The flannel trousers are also made by him. Probably better pictures needed as well.

[old henry]

Russell did great for you. You look comfortable and confident and at ease in what he did for you. You should be very pleased.

[Concordia]

Nice proportions and general look. Braces will allow you to calibrate the distance between your shoulders and 1/8" above your shoelaces more precisely, but the trousers are much better now. Also, another tailor (or a later iteration with Russell) might get the jacket to hug your neck more persistently. But you've got past the problems that most guys never solve adequately.

[belimad]

An update:
I know it was suggested that I work with one tailor only, to get a good pattern over several suits. I've been doing it with Russell at Gordon Browne, but at the same time I wanted to get a better sense for different styles, tailors, and of course have fun and get some outstanding suits in my wardrobe! So:

- This past week I had the first fitting of the Agnelli tweed 3-piece SB commission with Steed. I was impressed by how much work they do towards the first fitting - not a lot needs to be done to finish it. Both Edwin and Matthew are delightful, and the suit is impressive. I have the next fitting in early June (as they travel extensively during April and May), and hopefully the suit will be ready just in time for me to bring it with me to the South American winter (particularly Argentina and Chile)

- Next week I'll have what hopefully is the last fitting of my SB light blue 2-piece from John Kent. After much discussion with Frank, I opted for a lightweight 8-9oz Lessers (https://www.harrisonsofedinburgh.com/se ... eria=31456) which should be perfect for tropical Brazil and Mexico, as well as the European Summer. I'll post pictures if it's ready.

- Joaquin Fernandez Prats from Camiseria Langa in Madrid is also almost done with a mid-weight SB grey suit, which I hope to pick up in two weeks. Should be great in the London weather.

- I've been working with Mr. Mariano Arroyo Langa, from Camiseria Langa, to get a good shirt that fits me. We've now gone through 3-4 iterations and I think we are getting there. I'll get a few pictures next week, now that I'm happier with the fit.

- In the meantime, I've been able to pick up a few bespoke suits on eBay, as suggested, which I've had altered. I haven't posted any pictures of these beyond the DB you saw a couple of posts ago, but some of them are not a bad fit, serve well as a temporary solution, and they've been a fun way to learn a bit more about fitting and basic alterations. I might post a picture of two in the near future.

- Finally , I've been having a lot of fun working with Frank on a long distance commission! We started with basic measures and some pictures of me wearing various outfits and suits, we then moved on to a couple of iterations of muslin fittings with which we had to chase Fedex to ensure delivery, and according to frank we invented video fitting as well! The suit is progressing nicely, and I'll meet Frank in NY at the end of the month for a first in-person fitting. Pictures follow!


First fitting


Second fitting


Video fitting - you can see Frank in the top right corner


In the meantime, Frank has been doing amazing, all hand-stitched work on the jacket























The whole experience with Frank has been delightful, and a constant source of learning for me. Frank has been advising me on the other commissions and the shirts as well. I can't thank him enough, and I can't wait to meet him in NY at the end of the month. Same goes for Michael Alden, who I also need to thank for all the from-the-shadows advise!

More reports and pictures soon!

[davidhuh]

Dear Mariano,

very nice update - I see you're having considerable fun

Cheers, David

[belimad]

I am!

Also, as promised, more pictures! This time the fitting with John Kent, today. The suit will be ready next week - can’t wait!

[culverwood]

Wrt to shoes, I am a big believer in the barefoot movement, and since I adopted barefoot shoes my stance has improved considerably and back pain has dissapeared. Thus, I have decided I am not going back to regular shoes. I’ve looked at several barefoot brands, and the only one I found that has decent formal leather shoes is vivobarefoot, a UK brand which I really like. I’m trying to get in touch with the founder to see if I could order something more elegant, but for the time being their Lisbon model will have to do.

I understand your appreciation of and commitment to the type of shoe you wear but would it be possible in a formal context to occasionally wear regular shoes. The shapeless ones you are wearing may be OK with a sports coat and trousers but let down the great work of the tailors you have shown with a suit.

Perhaps another adventure in bespoke shoes though as the turnaround is much slower for shoes than suits it may be a long term project.