Requirements for a Dressy Topcoat

[SouthPender]

I'm considering a topcoat (which I'm defining as a lightweight wool overcoat) for wearing over suits and jackets in cold weather (which here in Vancouver means about 25 to 35 degrees F). Thus, I'm considering medium-weight wool coats with a lining, but no insulation of any kind. This coat would be worn on dressy (but not formal) occasions like weddings, funerals, the opera, and special dressy occasions. Here are my questions:

(1) Colour: Is a dark navy a good colour?

(2) Length: Is this a factor? For example, I've seen some that are about 41" from collar seam to hem--just above the knee--that are very nice (I'm 6 feet in height). However, is this too short? I suppose this might be considered a 3/4-length coat.

(3) Do patch hip pockets rule a coat out for the purposes I've noted?

Thank you for any help.

[manton]

Dark navy is fine. Mid to dark gray might be a bit more versatile.

I would make it a traditional length, mid-calf. It looks better, is warmer, and has a more dressy appearance.

I think patch pockets would go a long way toward undermining the formal character that you seek. I would go with flaps.

[SouthPender]

Thanks, Manton for your usual precise and helpful reply. Let me add a couple more variables:

(1) Can raglan sleeves (and no lapel) work for such a coat, or should I stick with the square-shouldered style with standard lapel?

(2) Is black recommended? (I don't much like black, but would consider it if it were preferred by most.) Can dark brown work in this context? I'm assuming that any of the lighter shades of gray, blue, or brown would not be appropriate.

[iammatt]

I think raglan sleeves are bot a bit too casual, and better suited to lighter colors and patterns. The body is generally very linear on them (no suppression) so the look is comfortable, but not dressy. I have one in camel colored cashmere and love it, but it is not a dressy evening coat.

Black would not be my choice. Manton's suggestion of grey is just right for me. With grey, you can wear it over a dinner jacket, or over a blue or grey suit. I don't like black and blue together, so those two colors would limit usefulness.

[manton]

1) I would say no. Raglan sleeves make the coat inappropriate for the more grave occasions and suitings that you describe.

2) Black is fine. Useful. Versatile. But a bit severe and boring. I would get gray or maybe covert instead. I think covert (as opposed to a more "brown" brown) would be best of all, perhaps.

[Concordia]

For very dressy, I would think either solid navy blue or a Chesterfield in dark grey herringbone with a black velvet collar.

[SouthPender]

Thanks all. Manton, what color is "covert"? I know about covert coats, but I thought that that appelation referred to the style and, perhaps, length and fabric, rather than color.

[Mark Seitelman]

Years ago I saw the architect, Phillip Johnson, in a bespoke brown/rust overcoat which looked smashing.

Nonetheless, the most versatile, dressy coats for both day and evening use are either in charcoal grey or navy.

[Richard3]

I have a black double-breasted pure cashmere topcoat. From my point of view this coat is perfectly suited for the occasions you mentioned. Anyway, I have to agree with Manton that grey would be a tad more versatile.