Perfumes

[davidhuh]

Since we're talking perfumes, just a general question here…I'm not even sure how to phrase it , but how does one know if a perfume is a "quality" perfume?

Is it the cost and rarity of the ingredients? The balance of synthetic and natural ingredients? Is it the reputation of the nose?

Dear Uppercase,

since you ask these questions, I would recommend you to read "Perfumes: The A-Z guide" by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez.

Cheers, David

[Gido]

Excellent recommendation, David! There is so much disinformation out there, almost everything people think they know about perfumes is nonsense. But Luca Turin knowns what he is talking about. He's also clever, sharp, funny, and a good writer.

[couch]

Seconded (or thirded following Gido) and while waiting you might enjoy his now discontinued but still savory blog.

[Melcombe]

A while ago I found myself being rather convinced by a lady (who plainly knew her stuff) as to the quality & corresponding price of some Frederic de Malle 'editions'.

Since then, with a bit of investment in testers, I have plumped for a bottle of French Lover (Bois d'Orage in US). Im not a huge user of cologne, but this hits the spot, squarely and hard, despite the daft name.

FdM's range varies considerably in price, measure-for-measure, reflecting the ingredients. The resulting depth and complexity are difficult to describe, but easy to appreciate especially when compared to a mainstream fragrance using fewer naturally sourced ingredients.

If you are at a loose end in Selfridges (my daughter's favourite shop - so in my case that's quite often) I'd recommend visiting the FdM concession there - knowledgeable and able staff typical of Selfridges at its impressive best.

[couch]

Melcombe, thanks for this. And your mention of Frederic Malle at Selfridge's reminds me to post a link to the newly updated London perfume shopping guide by writer, blogger, and amateur perfumer Persolaise / Dariush Alawi. Especially for those of us who are in the city only at intervals, this is a very useful gazetteer of what's where, with many out-of-the-way or unexpected sources.

[hectorm]

Excellent shopping guide, couch. Particularly useful for those of us who sometimes want a bit more than the tired lineups available at the duty-free shops of the world (and of course, a prettier, more gentle environment). Thank you for posting.

[uppercase]

Malle now owned by Estee Lauder.

And Francis Kurkdjian owned by LVMH.

Does it matter ? I don't know.

I enjoyed perfumes of both houses prior to their purchase.

Turin book. I have it but who knows where it is at the moment. I enjoyed it. And his blog as well. Did he and Sanchez talk about what makes a quality perfume …?? Can't remember that.

But WTF. It seems everything commercialized and if you don't have your own opinions and standards, you'll just be buffetted and blown by "influencers" as hacks are currently called.

I still like Old Spice. But the re formulation is not what the original was in the old days. In my father's days as I remember it.

[Scot]

When you have been for your shoe fitting at Cleverley, it's worth popping into Ormonde Jayne next door.

[Man at C&A]

When you have been for your shoe fitting at Cleverley, it's worth popping into Ormonde Jayne next door.

I'm a fan of Ormonde Man, or to be precise my Wife is a fan. It's heady stuff and I find it a little too much for summer use when it's warm and muggy in London.

[uppercase]

Interesting.
Frederic Malle.

https://youtu.be/oDmhw3UuQOw

[Dr T]

The nose for Hermes for so many years has retired. Two of my favourite Perfumes Terre d' Hermes and concentre d' orange vert are from his hand and are most delightful.
Christiine Nagel is the new nose her first fragrance for the house is Galop.

[uppercase]

Ellena?
I have mixed feelings.
His creations are so light and ephemeral...I love them but they don’t grip and engage me very much.
I have Terre and it is a good safe scent.
Not compelling but nice and sociable.

I recently bought again Equipage after a long absence. OK, but not what I remember it to be.

The best scent I recently bought is Penhaligon Castile and this was a super recommendation from the guys here - Luca and Culver I recall.

Fabulous.

Really can’t happily live without daily perfume but keep coming back to the Guerlains.

[culverwood]

When I am feeling brave I have a small sample bottle of Czech And Speake Cuba.

I would never buy a full sized bottle as I do not use it enough but for occasional those hot summer evenings it works

[Dr T]

Has any one experience of Guerlain's lavender - vanilla Jicky or
Chanel Eau de Cologne. Im looking for something different for this coming year.

[Dr T]

"Perfumes: The A-Z guide" by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez. A great read David, Just received my copy from Father Christmas!