Edward Green Shoes

[alden]

As many of you will know I am a great admirer and client of Edward Green for RTW shoes. Most of my own collection was purchased in the late 80s with a few additions here or there in the 90s. In the meantime and, in fact, in the last year EG has gone about changing the lasts they use to make shoes eschewing (sorry) its older wood lasts for resin ones. It would be little problem for the consumer except that the new shoes made on the resin last are coming out bigger and notably wider than the previous, historic iterations. I recently ordered a pair of shoes be made for me and when they delivered they were a full width, maybe two widths larger.

So long standing clients of EG are encouraged to stop by the London shop or nearby retailer and get fit once again to avoid any potential problems.

I have a narrow foot and these new lasts mean I won't be able to buy RTW shoes off the rack at EG anymore. The E fitting that used to be the standard, and was always a bit wide for me, is now more of a G fitting. That means I would have to special order shoes in the future, a much more costly alternative. Luckily I have all the shoes I will ever need and a few for the afterlife, so no worries.

Cheers

[rodes]

Michael, the afterlife is a long time.

[alden]

Michael, the afterlife is a long time.

Oh, thanks, now I remember why I bought so many shoes...right!

Cheers

[Rob O]

Michael,

Thank you for the advice. I visited EG this afternoon and discussed the matter with the staff. They do acknowledge the distinction when making a fitting. As a 202 last E fitting Dover man this is less of an issue but online customers should proceed with care.

Rob

[Rob O]

PS - I ordered some special order Dovers during my visit and the surcharge is 10% so not too onerous. I also took the opportunity to order Dainite soles.

[alden]

OK Rob, out with it...what last, leather and color? All the details please.

[Rob O]

OK Rob, out with it...what last, leather and color? All the details please.

Ha - 202 last, Utah leather, dark brown. I was going to order 606 last but was advised that the 202 would fit me better. It's also a slightly less chiselled toebox.

http://www.edwardgreen.com/shop/shoes/d ... -last.html

I am considering switching to a thinner edged dainite sole than the standard double thickness version. I suspect it might be more elegant.

[Rob O]

I have requested a thinner sole edge thickness. 202 last:

[andy57]

As many of you will know I am a great admirer and client of Edward Green for RTW shoes. Most of my own collection was purchased in the late 80s with a few additions here or there in the 90s. In the meantime and, in fact, in the last year EG has gone about changing the lasts they use to make shoes eschewing (sorry) its older wood lasts for resin ones. It would be little problem for the consumer except that the new shoes made on the resin last are coming out bigger and notably wider than the previous, historic iterations. I recently ordered a pair of shoes be made for me and when they delivered they were a full width, maybe two widths larger.

So long standing clients of EG are encouraged to stop by the London shop or nearby retailer and get fit once again to avoid any potential problems.

I have a narrow foot and these new lasts mean I won't be able to buy RTW shoes off the rack at EG anymore. The E fitting that used to be the standard, and was always a bit wide for me, is now more of a G fitting. That means I would have to special order shoes in the future, a much more costly alternative. Luckily I have all the shoes I will ever need and a few for the afterlife, so no worries.

Cheers

Sadly that did not break in my favor recently. I know my size in the EG lasts that I like, but I recently bought a pair of their "Duke" loafers, in white and brown calf. These loafers are made on the 137 last. Although I was advised that the fit was similar to Alden loafers, that turned out not to be true. The length of the EGs was fine, but they were agonizingly tight and narrow across the head of my metatarsals. So, back they go. Michaels advice is sound, and my experience has also taught me that knowledge of one's fit on one Edward Green last does not give much indication of one's fit on another.

[hectorm]

The E fitting that used to be the standard, and was always a bit wide for me, is now more of a G fitting.

It´s a pity that EG moved in that direction. I know that most RTW shoe makers have a rather wide fitting as standard so they can accommodate more clients, but this doesn´t seem worthy of EG. And to keep calling it E fitting sounds similar like what the Prêt-à-Porter industry has done for the women´s size 6.

[Russell]

I’m not sure when EG moved from using the wooden lasts but I’ve had 4 pairs from EG which were actually made during 2016 so presumably using the resin lasts. One pair was on the relatively new 915 last with the other 3 pairs being the on the 82 last – all E width 8.5 UK.

Historically the EG ‘E’ width has been ideal for me - the new pairs on the 82 E last fitted me the same as far older ones on the 82 E.

It was my first pair on the 915 last so I’ve no direct comparison but again the fit was as I’d expect from the older E lasts in general.

I wonder if for whatever reason the narrower fittings or other shoe sizes have suffered more from width variation than the basic ‘E’ 8.5 has?

Regards
Russell

[Glenroyal]

This is very interesting to know.

As a D fitting Dover 202 man, I am in the hapless position of being a special order in any event. I wonder if my D is now a C under the new resin last regime?

A related point on EG narrow fittings is their reluctance to use a Ridgeway sole - which I much prefer to the Danite, although I have had more success in persuading them recently - I think I was told they have a new manager at the factory.

[alden]

Russell

From what I understand the wood to resin conversion is now complete as of recently. Some 2016 production was still on the old lasts, but from now on they are the resin ones.

Glenroyal

I was a UK "D" fitting on the 202 and now I am between a "B" fit and "C."

Cheers

[DD MacDonald]

Have they gone to resin on all of the lasts, eg the 808?

I was in London last week and didn't take the chance to go talk with them, would have if I'd known about the change.

Thanks to all for pointing this out,
DDM

[Concordia]

Anyone know of an easy way to measure the difference between D and E? I have always liked the 202 shape, but previously had to go an extra width up and adjust the size accordingly. It never quite fit.

Now, I can fit well into a resined 202E but it's more spacious than the resin 82E, which provides almost a bespoke fit through my heel, arch, and instep.

If 202D were to get down to the 82 width (but no narrower), it could solve every problem.